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kate M

c

kinnon

techniques

 

+

 

explorations

j e w e l r y

sculptural

metal clay

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Materials

50–75 g of fine silver clay for Amphora
50–75 g of fine silver clay for chain (optional)
1 glass 14 × 63 mm tube bead or size of choice
1" (2.5 cm) of 10- or 12-gauge fine silver wire to 

snugly fit bead hole
16 or more dry fine silver clay 8mm rings
12 or more dry fine silver clay 3mm balls
2 fine silver 15 mm jump rings and 2 fine 

silver 13 × 30 mm S-clasps or 8" (20.3 cm) of 

12-gauge fine silver wire 
Liver of sulfur
2-part epoxy resin

tools

Work surface
Roller
Rolling guides
Texture pads or rubber stamps
Sharp tissue blade
Heavy-duty flush cutters
Soft paintbrush and water
Cocktail straw or small drill bit and drill
5mm circle cutter
Ball-end burnisher
Kiln
Hammer 
Anvil
Tumbler
Flat- or chain-nose pliers
Torch (optional)
Kiln brick (optional) 
Large round-nose pliers (optional)
Brass brush 

Lampworked bead by Stephanie Sersich

one of my favorite fictional charac-
ters, hercule poirot, always wore a 
silver boutonniere on his vest, given 
to him as a young man by one of 
the two women he ever loved. Make 
this interesting amphora setting to 
show off a favorite bead, practice 
your appliqué, fusing, chainmaking 
and open box-building skills, and to 
evoke the well-dressed poirot and 
his romantic devotion.

Finished size

necklace 22¼" (56.5 cm)
pendant 1¼" × 2¾" × ½"  

(3.2 × 7 × 1.3 cm) 

 amphora

 necklace

 

 

  3 

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sculptural metal clay jewelry 

01

 | 

 

Back.

  Roll and texture a sheet of 

fresh metal clay to a finished thickness 
of 3–4 cards. Cut an elongated fan shape, 
1

5

8

" × 3

1

8

" (4.1 × 8 cm), to form the am-

phora’s back.  Cut decorative windows 
in the back of the piece, to show the 
bead from behind, and to cut the weight 
of your finished piece. Cut hanging 
holes at the top right and left corners, 
either when the clay is bone dry, using a 
small drill bit, or when it is fresh, using 
a cocktail straw. If you cut fresh, you 
can remove the cut material from your 
cocktail straw and either use it to roll a 
little ball of clay for an egg or a ball-end 
head pin. Let the back piece become 
hard-leather hard to bone dry, and, if 
you wish, appliqué small pieces of dry 
clay to it for interest. I used three plain 
circles, cut from a thinly rolled sheet 
with a drinking straw and attached 
them bone dry, with a wash of water. 

Project notes

This lovely project can be made entirely of metal 

clay. Just create larger hanging holes and attach 

a metal clay chain directly to the pendant. I used 

S-hooks to connect my piece so the chain could 

be removable, giving the option of wearing the 

amphora on a plain, less expensive chain if 

desired.

techniques + eleMents 

Box building
Rivet post
Appliqué 
Rings
Chainmaking
S-clasp
Fused rings (optional)

 amphora

 necklace

 

It can be helpful to lay your 8mm bone-dry clay 

rings onto the freshly cut sides, to help you 

position your divots

Note

 I used a long, narrow lampworked 

bead for my design, but you can use any 
large bead for yours; just design the setting 
to accommodate the bead size. 

02

 | 

 

Side rectaNgleS.

 

Roll and 

texture a sheet of fresh metal clay to a 
finished thickness of 3–4 cards. Cut two 

1

2

" × 3" (1.3 × 7.6 cm) rectangles. Use a 

ball-end burnisher to make small div-
ots along the length of the rectangles 
where you’ll add the dry clay rings. Use 
the circle cutter to cut out a few of the 
divots; the rings will frame the holes 
later. Let the rectangles become hard-
leather hard to bone dry.

 

 

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03

 | 

 

BaSe. 

Roll a plain sheet of 

freshmetal clay 6 cards thick. Cut a 

5

8

"  

× 1"  (1.5 × 2.5 cm) rectangle to form 
the amphora’s base. Use the wire that 
will support the bead to make a hole 
in the base where a rivet post will go. 
Keep in mind that the hole may not 
be dead center, depending on the fit of 
your bead in your setting. Let the base 
become hard-leather hard to bone dry. 

Note

 This rivet post will hold your bead in 

place, so be sure to choose a wire gauge that 
fits your bead hole tightly. Beware of large 
beads with tiny holes; you want your wire 
to be thick enough to support the weight of 
the bead without bending. 

04

 | 

Use water and pressure to squidge 

the dry clay rings to the two dry 

1

2

× 3" (1.3 × 7.6 cm) rectangles so they 
frame the divots or cut-out holes. For 
the rings that frame a divot, fill the ring 
with a drop of water and drop in 1 dry 

Place the dry clay balls in the drop of water in your 

dry clay divots, and let them get sticky. 

 

amphora necklace

 

  

  5 

clay ball. Let the balls set up briefly, 
and, when sticky, press and rotate them 
in their divots to secure.

05

 | 

Use a small amount of water 

and pressure to squidge the box sides 
together, assembling an open box form. 
Brush the joins with a damp paintbrush 
to gently smooth and clean them.

06

 | 

Let the box dry completely. Fill 

any errors in your joinery, if necessary, 
with tiny snakes of freshly rolled clay, 
and smooth in place with a thin wash of 
water or slip. Let the box completely dry. 

07

 | 

 

optioNal. 

Make and assemble 

a 16" to 24" (41 to 61 cm) metal clay 
chain for hanging the pendant.

The prepared box back, sides, and base, bone dry, 

and ready for assembly. 

The finished box form, ready for the post imbed 

and firing, and a finished Amphora box in the 

background. Note the different look of flush vs high 

sides.

08

 | 

Reset the rivet post into the 

hole in your base, which should have 
shrunk in drying. This is one of my 
favorite techniques to get a really good 
fit on a large wire imbed; make the hole 
in wet clay, set the post in the dry clay. 
The drying process offers just enough 
shrinkage to ensure a tight fit of the 
wire in the hole. Fire the box and chain 
for 2 hours at 1650° F (899° C). 

09

 | 

After firing, work-harden the 

chain by hammering the links on the 
anvil and a bezel mandrel.

10

 | 

Attach 1 commercial or hand-

made fine silver jump ring to each of 
the hanging holes. Fuse the rings closed 
if desired.

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 project

 gallery

circle of flowers 

necklace

wave 

ring

knobby 

rings

owl peeking 

pendant

  

  

sculptural metal clay jewelry 

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project gallery

 

  

  7 

pebble prong 

pendant

sea prong 

rings

sea prong 

bracelet

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MAsTeR TeACheR and jewelry artist Kate 
McKinnon begins Sculptural Metal Clay 
Jewelry 
with an overview of metal clay 
basics: terms, techniques, and tools. Next, 
she offers detailed instructions for creating 
a variety of metal clay and fine silver 
wire elements: components, settings, 
findings, attachments, 3-D forms, and 
textured effects that are the foundation 
of her signature jewelry designs.  

The technique section is followed by 10 
unique projects that combine foundation 
techniques with one-of-a kind design 
elements. Projects include:

+

 

three-dimensional rings

+

 

organic chain designs

+

 

metal clay and lampworked bead pendants

her designs have multiple components 
made from metal clay and fine silver wire, 
including not only clasps, chain, and 
settings, but also moveable and remov-
able pieces, unusual textures and patinas, 
unique construction and engineering, and 
creative ways to incorporate beads.  

All of the techniques are shown with 
crystal-clear step-by-step photography. For 
added instructional assistance, the author 
and her techniques in action appear on the 
enclosed DVD bound in the back of the 
book.  This book and DVD combination 
offers jewelry artists both the techniques 
and design inspiration needed to create 
gallery-level jewelry that is truly art to wear.   

sculpt

 art to wear 

about the artist

Kate McKinnon is a mixed-media artist who 

lives and works in Tucson, Arizona. Her work 

focuses on the engineering of how elements 

work together, connect, and grow into finished 

pieces of jewelry. She won the prestigious Rio 

Grande Saul Bell award in 2003 for her innova-

tive design with metal clay, and has taught 

and lectured internationally. Kate is the author 

of several self-published books on jewelry 

design, a mixed-media book, and a novel about 

rebuilding Thoreau’s dream in a form to suit the 

digital age—an urban 

Walden.

paperback w/flaps, 8½ × 9 

160 pages + dVd 

150 photographs

iSBN 978-1-59668-174-3

$26.95

available april 2010