Travel Without the TARDIS

A Target Book

Published in 1986

by the Paperback Division of

W.H. Allen & Co. PLC

44 Hill Street, London W1X 8LB

Corporation, 1986

Printed and bound in Great Britain by

Hunt Barnard Printing Ltd, Aylesbury, Bucks.

Typeset in Baskerville by Fleet Graphics,

Enfield, Middlesex

ISBN 0 426 20240 6

This book is sold subject to the condition that it shall not, by way of

trade or otherwise, be lent, resold, hired out or otherwise circulated

without the publisher's prior consent in any form of binding or cover

other than that in which it is published and without a similar condition

including this condition being imposed on the subsequent purchaser.

CONTENTS

Introduction

First You Build a Transmat: Planning; Documents;

Selecting an Airline; Getting Around the Country;

British Rail; Driving Yourself; Bus; Safety and

Health; Solo vs Group; Money Matters; Contacts;

Timing 9

2 Packing

Your

Goodies:

Supplies; Credit Cards 29

You Are Not the Doctor: Language;

Living British; British Telephone System;

Houseguesting; Forgotten Words and Customs 36

London - Where It All Began: On Arrival;

Where to Stay; How to Get Around; Where to Go;

Special Doctor Who Places; What Else to Do;

Who's Appearing Where; Where to Eat; Using the

Telephone 47

It's Only a Short Trip: Acton; Aldbourne; Avebury;

Bagley Woods; Barnet By-Pass; Bamsley; Battle;

Birmingham; Bisley; Blackhurst House;

Black Park; Blackpool; Bodiam Castle;

Bognor Regis; Brighton; Bristol; Cambridge;

Canterbury; Denham; Dover Castle; Dungeness;

Ealing; East Hagboume; Evesham; Frensham

Ponds; Gerrards Cross; Harrison Rocks; Harwell;

Hastings; Hoo; Ironbridge Gorge; Hurley;

Isle of Wight; Knebworth House; Leeds Castle;

Longleat; Mayfield, Medway River; Middlesex

Polytechnic; Miserden; Northampton; Oxshott;

Portsmouth; Quainton; Queen Elizabeth Woods;

Runnymede; Shapwick; Stargroves; Stonehenge;

Sussex Downs; Villiers House, Ealing; Wimbledon

Wookey Hole; Quarries We Have Known and Loved;

Clustering 80

6 On

Location:

Cornwall; Penzance; Land's End;

Lizard's Point; Church Cove; Ruan Minor;

Dartmoor; Iken Marshes; Jodrell Bank; Portland

Bill; Skegness; Scotland - Culloden, Loch Ness;

Wales - Blaenavon, Nantyglo, Brecon Beacons,

Portmeirion, Maenturog, Nant Ffrancon, Powys;

Overseas with the Doctor; Amsterdam; Paris;

Seville; Lanzarote 118

The Master's Checklist

154

Bibliography

159

INTRODUCTION

This book was written by two devoted Doctor Who fans and
devout Anglophiles who are of an age where youth hostels are
no longer acceptable or feasible. And, while we haven't won
the lottery (yet), we are moderately experienced travellers
who have not lost our sense of adventure or curiosity.

If you watch Doctor Who, it's probably crossed your mind at

one or more points (hopefully without cloning and shrinking)
that you'd like to visit some of the places associated with the
show and see something of the marvellous country that
produces it.

If you're a relatively inexperienced traveller, though, you've

probably put off making the trip because there are so many
'unknowns'. And if you're an experienced traveller, the thought
of trying to organise a trip geared just around Doctor Who was
a bit overwhelming.

This book is written for both of you - along with anyone

who falls in between. While curiosity may have killed the
proverbial cat, we wanted to make sure that it wouldn't
exterminate any other Doctor Who fans who travelled to
England. To do that, we were willing to try our own recipes
and see if we were able to survive. Additionally, we weren't
afraid to ask other, more knowledgeable people for help.
Thanks must go to John Nathan-Turner, The Doctor Who
Appreciation Society, The Doctor Who Monthly, John Peel
{Fantasy Empire) and many others.

Of course we don't think of ourselves as travel experts.

We've certainly made our goodly share of mistakes! But by

following our suggestions, your trip will be more enjoyable
and you can invent mistakes of your own!

Your trip to England should be an adventure. If you can

afford the standard tour package - being put up at an
expensive hotel in London and carted to and from what the
tour thinks you should see - fine and dandy. You don't need
this book. On the other hand, if you want to see where the
Doctor was tied to the post waiting for the Kraals' bomb to
explode, or where the Daemon terrorised the villagers, or
where Leela swam in the TARDIS, then this book is just what
the Doctor ordered.

We've gathered the information you need to plan to go to

England and have as much fun doing things as your time and
resources permit. Don't make the fatal mistake of the
inexperienced traveller and set an impossible intinerary. You'll
get tired, or it will rain (inevitably . . . ), or someone or
something you desperately want to see will be 'closed for
repairs'. Plan to return! Nothing says that you can only make
one trip to Britain in your lifetime. It's a law of the galaxy that
you can visit Britain as often as any renegade Time Lord.

This book is not all-inclusive. When you have read it and

are ready to plan your trip, get some of the other books listed
in the bibliography. Frommer's, Fodor's, the Let's Go series,
etc., all list many places to stay, eat, and what those places
will cost. The British Tourist Authority (BTA) and the
Automobile Association (AA) also publish excellent books. In
the bibliography you'll find a listing of countries and cities that
have British Tourist Authority Offices. Contact them if you
can. They're more than willing to help.

Remember, this book is written by fans for fans. We'd like

to hear from you about your experiences, so that updates are
accurate and our revisions are timely.

May the Time Winds be always at your back, and if you see

a blue Police Public Call Box . . . don't let it leave without
you!

First You Build A Transmat

Planning
Since no travel agency is offering TARDIS fares, the next
quickest (and probably more reliable) way would be by
transmat.

Unfortunately, the plans for the actual construction of this

fabled device are in the Chicago USA Dead Letter Office, and
they won't be recovered until the year 2000. So you'll have to
get to Britain in a more conventional manner. This may mean
that it will take you some time to get to Britain; possibly
travelling through several time zones. If that's true, don't plan
to do too much on the first day you're in there. Give your body
a chance to catch up to the time change.

Use this book to determine just what Doctor Who locations

you want to visit on this trip to Britain. Figure out how much
time you can spend in Britain. Then take a Month at a Glance-
type calendar and start filling in the days with what you want
to see. Don't try to do too much in any one day (two major
attractions is a good number to aim for), and don't lock
yourself into doing something every day. Allow some time for
spur of the moment activities - or just relaxing. Time Lords
may not need to sleep, but humans do. If your activity
involves a trip, note departure times (and stations), and return
times inside each daily block. If you're going to need a
sleeping room for the night, note that too. Take into account
the time it will take you to get to Britain.

Decide just exactly what you want your trip to be like -what

type of hotels you want, what kind of transportation

you plan to use. After making your first plan, put it aside for a
bit and then look at it again. When you're sure it's what you
really want, take that information to your travel agent.

Get a good travel agent. A good travel agent listens to what

you want to do and doesn't try to sell you his or her pre-
packaged tour-of-the-week. He or she has been to Britain and
not just as the paid guest of one hotel chain. The agency
should be licensed, and should have been around your
community for at least five years.

We hope the day will never come when travel agents charge

for their services - the present system provides for
reimbursement by the carriers and hotels they deal with -but
times change. Check with the agencies in your area before
dealing with any specific one. Your agent should be able to
offer a wide variety of choices - planes, hotels, auto rentals,
etc. and should not turn as green as a Swampie of Delta
Magna at the mention of Bed and Breakfast places or Youth
Hostels.

If you don't have or can't find a travel agent you like, check

with the local branch of your National Automobile Travel
Association. You don't always have to be a member to use
their services and they can often help you plan your trip.

Documents
Even the Doctor, as we saw in 'Robot', carries some identi-
fication around with him. Of course, in his case, it wasn't the
identification needed. You, on the other hand, have to be sure
that you have the right kind of identification and other
documents.

You will need a passport. If you do not have a current

passport then you should apply for one well in advance of
your trip (in America, allow at least two months). If you do
have one, check to be sure that it won't expire during your trip.
Passport requirements vary from country to country, but
generally you must supply proof of citizenship (as in a birth
certificate), two specially sized absolutely identical

pictures, the right amount of money and, occasionally, have
additional proof that you are who you say you are. In many
countries you can get a passport at the post office. Check with
your local government for specific requirements. You should
also carry some other form of photographic identification
besides your passport.

Planning on driving? You'll need your current, valid,

national driver's licence (for an automobile, not a moped or a
Zanakian flying car).

If you're a student, get an International Student Identi-

fication card. If you're planning on using hostels, you'll need a
youth hostel card. Check with your travel agency for details
on obtaining these cards.

See what your current medical insurance will cover in

Britain and have the right information available should you
require medical treatment. Tourists get free medical treatment
only for real emergencies - so be prepared. Being zapped by a
Zygon would qualify, but problems caused by drinking too
much wine with Solon wouldn't (unless you lost your head).

Talk to your travel agent about some form of travel

insurance. Coverage in many countries is available for
everything from lost baggage to illness ruining your trip plans!
Carry all insurance information with you.

Make a photographic copy of your passport that shows your

picture and the passport number and keep it in a totally
different place than your passport. If you lose your passport,
report it immediately! You must know your passport number
to have it replaced.

Check with your travel agent on what the current health

requirements are to leave and enter your country. There's good
news for Americans: at the present time, no shots are required.
If a health certificate is required make sure you get it in time.

Selecting An Airline
We'll assume that you're on a budget and don't have the

$4000 to fly a round trip on the Concorde (that's without a
side-trip to the dawn of time - courtesy of the Master!). First-
class fares are also more than most fans can afford. Don't
worry about it. While the seats are much nicer up in that part
of the plane, they're really not worth the price difference. If
you make your plans well in advance, you should have time to
shop around and find the very best bargain. Your travel agent
can help. APEX rates require that you purchase your tickets
21-45 days in advance and usually also require a minimum
stay of a certain number of days. Almost every airline has
these rates and they are generally a good buy.

There are also the budget airlines, People's Express and

Virgin Airlines, that are now flying from the USA to London.
The prices for these services are generally more than
reasonable, but be aware that there is a reason why the service
costs less. (No, you don't have to flap your arms to keep the
plane in the air.) Talk to friends who have flown the budget
route and your travel agent. On our last trip we saved $200
each by flying People's Express. Even sitting on the ground in
Newark waiting seven hours for an engine to be repaired didn't
change our minds about having made the right choice. (Laurie
points out that on one of her trips she spent ten hours waiting
while TWA got its plane ready to fly!).

If time means little to you, consider flying standby. Standby

rates are cheap, but you don't know exactly when you will
leave or return.

When you make your reservations, find out then if you have

to reconfirm before your return flight. Some airlines require
this 72 hours in advance, others 48, some not at all. If it's
required and you don't do it, you will lose your seat and be
stranded at the airport just like Tegan in 'Time Flight'!

Many airlines let you choose your seat when you make your

reservation. If they do, or if you just grab a seat when you get
on, you might want to consider the following: on a

L1011 or a 747, the seats over the wing are supposed to give
you a smoother ride. Seats in the middle of a three-seat section
are a little larger than the seats on the sides (but this can vary
with the airline). Seats in the front rows of a section and
sometimes just behind the exits have more leg room, but, with
no seat in front of you, you have no under-the-seat-storage.
BEWARE! Seats in the last row of a section do not recline all
the way. If you sit next to a bulkhead, you can lean against it
and it won't complain - a live fellow passenger probably will.

Getting Around the Country:
British Rail
The British Rail System is one of the wonders of the world.
That's our opinion, based on what exists in America. The
British will tell you that it's no longer what it once was -many
routes to small towns and even sections of the country no
longer exist - but it's certainly the best that we've seen. The
trains are clean, comfortable, often have food on board, and
even run on time. Add to that the fact that the cost of train
travel is very reasonable and you'll see why we recommend it.
We don't know if the Doctor ever travelled by train but in
'Black Orchid' he not only knew what a train station was but
said that he'd always wanted to drive a train as a child.
Apparently they also have trains on Gallifrey. We suspect that
if the third Doctor had ever been on one, he would have driven
it! There are many books that will give you information on the
British Rail system. If you are planning several trips outside
London, whether day trips or touring expeditions, check into a
British Rail pass.

You can get a British Rail Pass for the class of service you

want and for periods of time ranging from 7 days to 1 month.
Youth pass prices are also available for those under 25; Senior
Citizens can travel first class at economy class rates.
(Incidentally, in the States it's known as a Britrail pass). Your
travel agent has current prices. So, consider where you want to
go, investigate the 'regular' round trip fares and

make your decision. Please note that you must buy your
British Rail Pass before you get to Britain - and you should
allow at least a month for it to arrive.

Depending on your travel agent, you may get your actual

British Rail Pass, or an airline-style coupon that you turn in
for your British Rail Pass when you get to Britain. If you get
the coupon, you will also get a list of places where you can
turn it in - including the British Rail offices at Gatwick and
Heathrow airports. When you get your pass, it will be undated.
"You write in your passport number and sign the pass. You
must have the pass validated at a British Rail ticket office or a
travel centre in Britain. The first and last day of its validity
period will be written in at that time. An unvalidated pass is
good for one year after it's been issued.

Once you have a valid British Rail Pass, you can board any

train going anywhere (as long as it's not exclusively First
Class and you only have an Economy Pass: then you have to
pay a supplement or else travel in the luggage compartment).
Show your pass to the guard when he asks for tickets. That's
all. Easy, eh? There's a supplemental charge for reserving
seats, for switching to First Class from Economy, or for
getting a sleeping compartment on an overnight sleeper train.

British Rail/Sea Pass allows you to take a 'free' hovercraft

ride from Dover to France and return. We can assure you that
the pilots of the hovercrafts are more skilled than Jon Pertwee
was in making 'Planet of the Spiders'. He was piloting the
vehicle, without any instruction, and nearly ran down the
camera crew when he tried to stop! You can use your Seapass
for one way'or round trips to Paris ('City of Death', T. Baker,
1979) or Amsterdam ('Arc of Infinity', Davison, 1983)
although you'll have to pay for your travel on the continent.

One way to get the most out of a short trip to Britain is to

plan to take sleeper trains between long distances such as the
trip between London and Inverness. Catch the train about
midnight, sleep during the trip, and arrive refreshed in the

morning. You can then spend afull day around Inverness (or
Cornwall) and catch a sleeper back that night. If you arrange
your schedule carefully, you can avoid paying for a room in
London, and the cost of the sleeper is quite a money saver.

Second class (or economy) sleepers have two bunks - on,e

above the other. First class has the same size compartment but
with only one bunk. Two adults sharing a compartment the
size of the priest's hole in 'Pyramids of Mars' is definitely an
adventure in mutual co-existence. There are no showers or
baths available but each compartment does have a sink with
running water for washing purposes. Drink only the bottled
water that is provided. Toilet (lavatory) facilities are 'down the
hall.'

You can buy light snacks and beverages from the attendant,

but your breakfast of coffee or tea and biscuits is included in
the sleeper charge. The attendant will also wake you when you
ask (yes, at some point you do have to leave the train when it
arrives!), so allow time to get ready.

If you plan on using a sleeper, you must reserve ahead of

time. You can do this for any trip from the Travel Centre in
any train station. Reserve as far in advance as you can (such as
immediately upon arrival - you planned ahead, remember!).
Some runs are very popular and get booked up.

If you want to get out of London and travel around the

countryside, you should consider some sort of a Rail-Drive
package. This allows you to take advantage of the marvellous
rail service to get you from - say - London to Swindon and
then, in your own rental car, tour the countryside at your own
pace.

If you don't get a British Rail Pass here are some points that

can save you money:

Ask for an Awayday Return if you're going out and coming

back on the same day. (They are restricted on some trains on
Monday - Friday)

If you're travelling out on a Friday, Saturday, or Sunday and

coming back the same weekend on Saturday, Sunday, or

Monday, ask for a Weekend Return. (There are some Friday
and Monday restrictions going to and from London.)

A Nightrider (that's without the K) allows you to travel to

parts of Scotland from London in first class. The service does
not go to Inverness, however.

If you don't get a British Rail Pass before you leave, you can

purchase a Railrover for seven or fourteen days when you
arrive in Britain. These are more expensive than the British
Rail Pass but, if you're going to be riding the rails, it's
probably cheaper and more convenient than individual tickets.

InterCity Savers are available between London and certain

cities. Time restrictions apply (i.e. leaving London after 10.00
A.M. Monday-Friday) and you must return within a month bn
any train, any day.

A Triple Ticket allows you to take three British Rail trips

from London for $50 (USA, 1985) - travelling first class. The
selection of trips allowed is like a Chinese Restaurant menu,
one from each of three columns, but the current listing would
allow you to see three Doctor Who-related locations.

If you're feeling a bit shaky about travelling on your own,

ask your travel agent to check out the Britainshrinkers. These
are guided tours using British Rail and they visit quite a few
Doctor Who locations. If you do have a British Rail Pass, the
cost is reduced even further.

If none of the above fits, ask for an Ordinary Return.
Understand all of that? Your next assignment is to solve all

the continuity errors in Doctor Who.

Unsure if the British Rail Pass would work for you? How

about the London Travel Pack? It includes a three day London
Explorer Pass, Airport Transfers, and a four-day British Rail
Pass. Or you might be able to get the London Town and
Country with a three day London Explorer Pass, Airport
Transfers, and round trips to Canterbury, Cambridge, and
Brighton (all Doctor Who locations). These types of packages
vary from year to year as does the price of a British Rail Pass;
so talk to your travel agent.

When travelling out of London, keep in mind London has

many rail stations. Be sure you know where to go to catch
your train. For example: trains to Inverness leave from Euston
Station; for Leeds it's King's Cross; Cambridge trains depart
from Liverpool Street; and it's Paddington for Penzance! If
you have checked out of your hotel in London and don't need
to take all your luggage with you, you can use the Left
Luggage in any of the stations for storage for a couple of days.
There's a small, reasonable fee for this. Tip the attendant when
you pick up your bags!

At the train stations, you can use the free luggage carts. The

only problem is, they're as scarce as jethrik stones and usually
at the other end of the station. If you're lucky enough to find
one, don't pile things on that are much wider than the cart.
You will have to roll it through the ticket gates. There are
always stairs in the stations, probably to defeat invading
Daleks, but lifts or elevators are also available. Ask the station
staff for help.

Don't open the outside door of your train compartment until

the train comes to a complete stop. If you're on the platform,
don't stand too close to the platform edge. If some idiot opens
his door while the train is moving, you could have a nasty
accident. You really don't want to look like one of the Kraal
androids with its face off - do you?

British Rail books abound, some of which we've listed in the

bibliography. If you want to take the train to see the
countryside, it's a good idea to get the Thomas Cook
Continental Timetable from a Thomas Cook travel office, or a
a speciality travel bookstore, or SASE the Forsyth Travel
Library, Box 2975, 9154 W. 57th St., Shawnee Mission, KS
66201 USA.

Driving Yourself
While the Doctor seems to be able to hop into all kinds of
vehicles and manoeuvre them without getting traffic tickets
and the like, remember - you are not the Doctor. A bit of

forewarning is called for. One very tempting way of getting
around Britain is by driving yourself.

If you're staying in London the whole time, skip this section

altogether. There is absolutely no reason to try driving in
London - and several million reasons rolling around on two,
three, and four wheels why you shouldn't. The mass transit
systems in London are quite capable of getting you where you
want to go without a great deal of effort on your part. So,
simply turn to the next section.

Big cities not your cup of tea, eh? Well, we think a major

portion of the charm of Britain is best realised by visiting
places not on the mass transit routes. While it's true you can
travel to and through large sections of the country by train,
there are times when a car is essential.

Nevertheless, if there are two-four of you, you might want

to consider hiring a taxi when you arrive at your general
location. We found out we could have hired a taxi to drive
around Inverness for just about the cost of a car - and we all
could have looked at the scenery instead of concentrating on
driving. The taxi rental consideration is even truer if you
cannot drive a stick-shift car and have to go to the
significantly more expensive automatic transmission version.
A word of warning: the car rental group we'd booked with
downgraded us to a stick-shift in Scotland. Since we'd booked
the automatic more for its size (four of us and luggage), we
were not at all pleased. Luckily the luggage didn't happen to
be along, and Jean could drive a stick shift. You might not
have that kind of good fortune.

If you do rent a stick-shift, realise you'll be shifting with

your left hand. Don't try it if you've only had 'experience' in a
Driver's Ed simulator!

Of course, you know that the British drive on the opposite

(left) side of the road from most other nations. (In the interests
of international relations, don't call it the wrong side!) The
driver's seat is also on the opposite side, which helps
somewhat. What helps even more for the first day or so is if

the other people in the car yell LEFT! whenever the driver
makes a turn. It may be noisy, but it gets the point across.

We do wonder why the British, with their great regard for

safety, don't have non-British drivers display some kind of
flag on their vehicles - after all, learners are required to have
an L on their licence plate, and there is a compulsory seatbelt
law for everyone in the front seat!

The confidence of car rental firms as they blithely hand you

the keys (knowing you're not native to their land) and turn you
loose on their roads in their shiny car amazes us. We think this
practice is fully equivalent to letting Tegan pilot the TARDIS
by herself without the TARDIS manual. We can't give you the
equivalent of that manual but here's some information that
might help.

Before you go anywhere, get a map. Get several maps.

Don't rely on your car rental firm to give you the kind of map
you need. What you want is called an Ordnance Survey map
and the scale should be at least three miles to the inch. These
are wonderful maps of the country telling you all about what
you're driving through. Everything is marked: old castles,
standing stones, market crosses, and sometimes even quarries!
Not only does using one of these maps make the driving much
more interesting, but it makes it nearly impossible to get lost.
There's as much packed in an 'inch' of Britain as in one of the
Doctor's pockets.

You can find these maps at Tourist Information Centres in

Britain but we suggest you see if your speciality bookstore can
order them for you. Read them before you leave, mark things
you want to see and bring the maps with you. They will not
help you if you leave them sitting at home on your dresser.

There are no road signs in space and the Doctor has to

navigate without them. You will not find this the case in
Britain.

Intersections are very well marked, but if you make the

wrong turn, you won't find out until you get to the next inter-

section. There are no signs in between. This is another reason
for a good, detailed map.

You can tell the quality of the road you will be taking by its

number. An M road is a high speed motorway: very dull and
somewhat scary to folks who are used to obeying the speed
limits. An A road is better than a B, and the more digits after
the letter, the smaller the road.

One type of sign you will see upon approaching an inter-

section resembles a flattened octopus with a varying number
of 'arms.' (The rest were probably pulled off by whatever
flattened it.) Congratulations! You're now coming to a
roundabout. A roundabout is the British replacement for a
multiple stop intersection. We think they're marvellous. The
principle is that you enter the roundabout (with care, yielding
to the right) and circle in a clockwise direction until you come
to your turn or exit. If you miss it, you can keep going around
until it comes up again. The turns are plainly marked and the
traffic keeps moving.

Roundabouts come in varying sizes. In some cities you'll

find miniroundabouts - equivalent to an American four-way
stop - only you don't stop, you go round! In Swindon, there's
something called the Magic Roundabout that is actually seven
roundabouts hooked into each other. After we manoeuvred
through that one safely and correctly we were ready to tackle
anything.

Traffic signs are supposed to be fairly universal with their

little pictographs. The British seem to go in for 'crossing' signs
more than Americans - with some interesting results. The 'deer
crossing' sign is much like the American one, although Jean
thinks that the deer is prettier. A round sign with a cow is a
'cow crossing,' a horse is a 'horse crossing', a horse and a rider
is 'horse and rider crossing', but, you ask, what does a little
galloping horse mean? It's a 'wild pony crossing.'

Other types of crossings that can be equally confusing are

Zebra and Pelican crossings. No, they're not for Zebras and

Pelicans, they're for pedestrians! We'll discuss them in the
London section.

Apparently there are no laws saying you have to park in the

direction you are driving. (Or if there are, they aren't very well
enforced.) This can be confusing and frightening to a novice
traveller already driving on the 'opposite' side of the street.
Since many village streets are narrow, traffic coming towards
you will suddenly swing out around a parked car into what is
essentially your lane. Don't panic! It doesn't necessarily mean
you're going the wrong way. If the other driver doesn't
immediately pull over into the other lane, panic! Otherwise,
be alert! Drive with extreme caution! Expect the unexpected,
and remember - a navigator for a partner in the car is worth
their weight in gold!

We strongly urge prospective drivers to get a British road

manual and read it before starting to drive. They are, unlike
American ones, wonderfully readable. If you've done your
homework, you won't be surprised by the varying speed limits,
the significance of yellow stripes on the curb, or the signs that
mean NO!!! but don't look like it. A red ring or red circle
around a sign, even without the red slash bar, means NO!!!
We especially like the one with the red circle and nothing in
the centre that means no vehicles. Could have fooled us (and
did).

Not only is this foreknowledge forearming, but you can also

start to get a taste of the country by reading that you should
watch out for pedestrians near a 'parked milk float' or a
'mobile shop'. Cautions about not ever driving so as to scare
the animals or revving your motor so as to harass a pedestrian
at a zebra crossing will help you appreciate what you're
getting into.

Bus
While British Rail no longer goes everywhere, the chances are
a bus or a coach does. Note: a bus is a large, multi-passenger
vehicle that runs inside a town or local district and stops a lot;

a coach is a large multi-passenger vehicle that runs between
towns and doesn't stop very much; and a railway coach is
quite simply a carriage!

There are lots of different bus and coach companies linked

together at interchange points. Inside London you will find
both red buses for local service and green buses that travel to
the immediate outlying areas. You can board a Green Line bus
in London by waiting at a green and white bus sign and
signalling the driver by waving your left hand when you see
the bus approach. (If you wave your right hand, the driver will
just wave back and keep on going.) Many companies also
offer bus tours of the country. Bus fares tend to be less
expensive than rail fares, but generally the trip takes longer.
Visit or write the Victoria Coach (not the Train or the
Underground!) Station in London for more information.

There is, at this writing, a Britexpress Pass that allows

unlimited coach travel on the National Express Bus System
and some travel on the Green Lines. You can buy it for five or
ten separate days of travel - it's stamped only on each specific
day you use it. Children and students get discounts. The price
is most reasonable - five days for an adult cost £25 in 1985.
Buy this in the USA, Canada, and seventeen other countries,
or from the National Express counter at Victoria Coach
Station - have your passport ready.

Safety and Health
Britain is a very safe and comfortable country, but it's always
sensible to take reasonable precautions. Guard against
pickpockets - especially in a crowd - the same way you would
elsewhere. Keep your money secured and don't flash cash!

Keep most of your money in traveller's cheques and have

the numbers of the cheques written down and stored in a
totally different location than the cheques themselves. Don't
cash more at one time than you can afford to lose.

Don't leave valuables in your room - no matter how

exclusive the hotel. There's no need to bring expensive

jewellery with you and unless you're a professional photo-
grapher, carry a camera small enough to keep with you at all
times."

Always carry your passport with you in a secure place.

Women should carry a shoulder bag with the strap on their
shoulder and an arm around it as well. Men should carry their
passport and wallet in an inside jacket pocket (preferably one
that can be buttoned) or in a money belt around their waist.
Never carry it in a hip pocket.

Don't go walking in dark areas late at night - or go

wandering off well-travelled streets - especially if you're by
yourself!

Don't get paranoid. After all, the Black Guardian isn't after

you is he? Britain and London are much safer than New York
City, but don't be silly and take foolish chances.

Just as you should take care of your belongings, you should

take care of yourself as well. Before leaving, get plenty of rest,
and lose five to ten pounds (well, it wouldn't hurt!). You will
be doing a lot of walking, so get in shape by doing more
walking at home beforehand.

If you need any special medication, or any unique over-the-

counter remedy, bring a good supply with you (see Packing
Your Goodies).

On the plane ride over, be sure to drink a lot of water -flying

is dehydrating. Don't drink alcohol; it's not only dehydrating,
it can combine with time-zone changes to produce terminal jet
lag (well, it feels like it). Loosen your shoes, but don't take
them off (you might not be able to get them back on) and wear
loose clothes. Sleep on the plane -forget the movie. Change
your watch to British time as soon as the plane takes off and
treat that time as if it were real - in a few hours it will be.

Solo Vs Group
Travelling solo can get rather lonely, and, especially for first
time visitors, the idea of going with other people is appealing.
Remember, though, travelling with a group on vacation . is

more strenuous than being married - no one is going to go off
to work for the day. Be sure that you and your group know
each other well before you leave. Otherwise you could end up
sounding like Adric, Tegan, Nyssa and the fifth Doctor on one
of their 'good'days.

If you are travelling in a group, try to stick together.
Sounds reasonable and fairly easy, eh? No way. Always

have a place picked out before starting where all are to meet at
an agreed-upon time in case anyone becomes separated from
the main body. Be sure every member of the group has a
watch and can tell the time. Any names or telephone numbers
(places where messages could be left or places to call for
confirmation of arrival, etc.) should be distributed among each
person at the same time. If it's necessary for the group to split
up for any reason (shopping, picture-taking, etc.) the same
should apply.

This pre-planning sounds tedious, but it will save an

enormous amount of wasted time in the event someone turns
up missing. Don't think this couldn't possibly happen. It
always happens, usually at the most inconvenient time
imaginable: Look at how many times it happens on the show,
and we all know that's an accurate reflection of real life -
right?

When travelling with a group do unto them as you would

have them do unto you. This will save hurt feelings, temper
tantrums, and lost friendships as well as make the trip a
heckuva lot more fun. Besides, it's just plain polite. Now, will
someone tell that to the sixth Doctor?

Money Matters
British money is pleasing to the artistic eye with its variety of
shapes, colours and sizes. It is, however, somewhat boggling
to the visitor's brain. One can only be thankful that it is, as
Susan predicted in 1963, now on the decimal system. Of
course, for the visitors, that takes away a good excuse for not
being able to make the right change. Unless you want to

mimic the Doctor in 'Planet of Fire

and just throw a bunch of

change at whoever you're trying to pay for something, it helps
to familiarise yourself before you arrive.

The folding money is very nice and relatively straight

forward. It is sized differently for each denomination with a
£1 note being the smallest and a £50 note being the largest.
Not only does the size differ by denomination, but each bill is
coloured differently. Most logical and attractive!

Coins, unfortunately, are not as logical. There are copper-

coloured coins and silver-coloured coins and one very odd
brass-coloured coin. We'll compare them in size to American
coins, since we're more familiar with them.

Copper coins are one pence (lp) and two pence (2p). The

one pence is smaller (about the size of a nickel) and the two
pence is about the size of a quarter.

Got that?
The silver coins are even more diverse. There is a five pence

(5p) coin (also about the size of a nickel), and a ten pence
(lOp) coin about the size of a quarter. After that, there's a
twenty pence (20p) coin, hexagonal in shape, but smaller than
the lOp coin (again about the size of a nickel). If that's not
enough, there's a fifty pence (50p) coin - also Hexagonal, but
now about the size of a half-dollar.

You didn't think that this was going to be easy, did you?
What about the odd-coloured brassy-looking one? You don't

want to think about it? Well neither "do we, but it's apparently
here to stay.

It's a one pound coin (£1) - in value, not weight -although it

comes close. This too is about the size of a nickel but three
times as thick. (And you thought American Susan B. Anthony
dollars were strange? Well, apparently the British government
is going to stop using the £1 note altogether and switch to
these!)

Don't get carried away collecting coins. In spite of their

value, you will not be able to turn them back into the currency

of your country when you get home. We don't know why,
that's just the way it is.

Over several days your coin collection tends to be larger and

heavier than a similar amount in - say - American. It's a good
idea to invest in a small zipped purse to carry the coins. The
standard wallet-type coin holder simply won't work. Actually,
you might as well look for a wallet that will comfortably
handle the larger size bills as well.

Before you leave, change your trip budget into pounds and

buy traveller's cheques in pounds sterling. The last thing you
want to worry about is the exchange rate.

Start thinking about how many pounds you can spend a day

and still stay on budget. Forget about dollars, francs, marks,
etc. Think British! With traveller's cheques in pounds, you can
go to any bank and get cash. (Be sure you have your passport
with you. The bank will want to see it. They will not accept
your UNIT identification, or your DW fan club membership
card, or even your driver's license.)

Some small Bed and Breakfast places and shops will not

accept even pound sterling traveller's cheques although there
is no charge from British Banks for depositing them. So, while
travelling in the country, it's best to keep a reasonable supply
of cash on hand.

It's extremely important to have some British cash with you

when you arrive. Your bank can get this, but you may need to
order it several days in advance. Don't wait until the last
minute, check it out ahead of time and make all the necessary
arrangements. Plan to arrive in the country with at least £50 in
cash. It's likely you will arrive on a weekend and the banks
won't open until Monday. Be sure you're not arriving on a
Bank Holiday weekend when the banks will also be closed on
Monday. In this case, add at least £25 more and watch your
early spending. A little advance planning can make your trip
much more enjoyable.

Banks often keep strange hours. The most common opening

times are from 9.30-3.30 Monday-Friday. Banks in small

towns may close down on additional days during the week.
Keep enough cash on hand for surprises like this. We've heard
that the banks at Heathrow and Gatwick airports are open sill
the time. We wouldn't count on it. Anyway, why wait around
an airport to change your money? Do it ahead of time and
you'll be set to go.

Contacts
We've compiled a list of some addresses and phone numbers
we think will be helpful. They're in the back of the book. As
you read other books about Britain, you may want to add to
this. Start your own 'special' book with all the addresses and
phone numbers of people, places, and things you think might
be important while you are in Britain. Add to this the
addresses of folks at 'home' that you can't remember easily and
might want to write to. Just remember when writing home to
send everything airmail, or else it could take months to arrive.

Timing
The High Season is considered to be from approximately
Easter (or Good Friday) to the end of September (or mid-
October). It's more expensive to travel within this period and
much more crowded.

Reservations are imperative at hotels, in the more popular

spots, and even the Bed and Breakfast places. Tourist Infor-
mation (located in almost every city of any size) will help you
find a place to stay if you're travelling without a reservation,
but space is at a premium during these months and they can't
conjure up what isn't to be found.

If you don't want to be like Tegan's cousin and sleep in the

crypt of a church (and you know what happened to him!),
consider travelling in the Shoulder Season (in the spring
before Easter; late October to mid-November) or the Low
Season (mid-November - late February). At these times trans-
Atlantic fares are lower and all hotel rooms are cheaper; there
are also fewer people crowding the various attractions you

will want to see. You must, however, check to make sure what
you want to see will be open as not all attractions are open
year round. (The DW exhibition at Longleat House is only one
example.)

The weather should also be a prime consideration in

planning the time of your trip as you might have to give up
some looked-forward-to treats simply because the weather
won't co-operate. Of course, if saving money is a definite
concern, you should, by all means, consider travelling off
season.

Something else to consider is that British schools start in

early or mid-September and Continental schools start even
earlier, so sightseeing won't be as crowded in September as it
is in the summer months. This might be a good time to travel
if you don't have to watch every penny and want to be assured
of fairly decent weather.

Major holidays when everything tends to close down

include: New Year's Day (1 January), Good Friday, Easter
Monday, May Day (the first Monday in May), Summer Bank
Holiday (the last Monday in August in England and Wales,
the first Monday in August in Scotland), Christmas Day (25
December) and the day after (Boxing Day). Wales also adds 1
March, as the anniversary of the death of their patron saint,
Saint David. On all major holidays, public services, such as
buses, are cut down. This is especially true around Christmas.

Whatever time you decide, if the weather isn't perfect, or the

crowds are too much, or the attraction you wanted to see is
closed, take it in good grace. Getting upset and angry at
something that you can't control will not change a thing and
will only help to spoil your vacation.

Packing Your Goodies

The keyword to packing is light - and that goes for your
suitcase as well as what's in it. We're not suggesting that you
run out and buy anything new, but make sure that what you've
got is what you really want to carry. The older or hard-sided
kind tends to be heavy even before anything is packed.
'Wheels' - whether removable or permanently attached - are
nice for straight shots through the airport or walking down the
street but don't help much when you're going up stairs or
riding escalators. Of course, if all you're going to do is arrive
in London and hole up in a hotel, you don't have to worry
much about getting your bags from one place to another. But
if you're planning on getting out for some overnight trips in
the country, think twice about what you are carrying.

Make sure that all luggage snaps, hooks, and zippers are in

good working order. Put your name and address both outside
(use a sturdy luggage tag) and inside your bags.

Most airlines allow you to check two bags and carry on one

small one. 'Carry-on' luggage is tempting but be careful before
buying. What the manufacturers call carry-on and what the
airlines accept are two different animals. For most airlines
today, size is the important factor. Check with the airline
you're flying to see what they accept. Make sure you specify
that you will be taking an overseas flight because those
measurements can differ from domestic flights.

You will return with more than you take, so pack a duffel

bag inside your main suitcase. Dirty clothes and such can
come back in this while your 'souvenirs' can travel in luxury.

You can carry a large purse/camera bag with things in it in

case your checked luggage gets lost. Nothing says you have to
carry a camera in a camera case! Carry 'real' camera
equipment in something that doesn't scream 'expensive stuff
inside!' A sturdy bag with appropriate padding for protection
is good enough.

Think very hard about what camera equipment you must

have. Whatever you bring will have to go everywhere with
you; you can't leave it unprotected in your room. Unless you
are a professional photographer, there is no reason to ruin your
trip by trying to carry fifty pounds of equipment around
Britain. You will find that a small camera that fits in your
pocket or 'purse' is perfectly satisfactory. If you decide to buy
a new one, practice with it before you go. Find out what it can
and can't do, especially on dark, rainy days.

For all the time she spent travelling in the TARDIS, Sarah

Jane didn't have much stuff of her own along. You will not
have access to the TARDIS closets, and even the Time Lords
have not invented a transdimensional suitcase. You probably
already realise that you can't bring along your stuffed owl, but
what do you really need?

Again the operative word is light. One way to decide what

you really need is to lay out what you'd normally take and then
put half of it back. If you're a real fashion freak, put three-
quarters of it back. If your name is Romana, put nine-tenths of
it back. Pack what's left in your suitcase and walk around the
block with it. Carry it up and down some stairs several times.
Now ask yourself, 'Do I really need everything that's in there?'
Answer honestly.

What do you need? Well, the weather in England is about as

predictable as the fourth or sixth Doctor. It never gets really
cold or really hot, but July does not necessarily mean warm

and the weather in November can be positively balmy. Think
layer.

You can rinse out lightweight things in your room and hang

them up to dry (definitely get a braided elastic clothesline -
sold in many better department stores with other travel items).
Carry a cut-open trash bag or use newspapers to catch the
drips and keep from harming the floor. (It's possible to find
coin-operated laundromats but not easy). With lightweight
things you can layer to your heart's content to be warm when
it's cold outside and still not swelter when the weather changes
(and it will). Not only can you keep fresh by doing a little
hand washing, you can also laugh it off if you get caught in
the rain (and you will). Waterproof everything you can -
slacks, shirts, blouses, ties, jackets, coats, etc. with the spray-
on type of water repellent. This not only keeps your clothes
cleaner but will keep you more comfortable in the inevitable
shower.

Pack for a 'pair and a spare.' Two pairs of slacks (yes, you

can wear jeans, but slacks will fit into more situations
comfortably - like a spur of the moment high tea in Inverness),
blouses or shirts (not all T-Shirts!), changes of underwear,
socks, and shoes. Women may want to consider oringing a
dress for 'special' occasions, but it's not really necessary. Both
pairs of shoes should have been tested by you (not the
salesperson at the shoe store) for comfortable walking. You
can wear sneakers, but sturdy walking shoes are more
acceptable. One pair can be for running around Cornwall or
climbing the hills of Hastings, while saving the other for
eating out and walking the streets of London window
shopping. Don't go with only one pair of shoes -your feet will
appreciate the change.

Bring at least one sweater to pull over your blouse/shirt for

warmth. A waterproofed trench coat with a zip in/out lining
and hood is handy any time of the year. And, if it's winter or
you're going to Scotland or Land's End, thermal underwear
can be lifesaver. A small, lightweight, collapsible umbrella

that fits easily in your purse or 'camera case' can also be a

real plus.

You can buy clothing in Britain, and sometimes you can

pick up some wonderful bargains. Check the label, though.
You didn't come all the way to Britain to buy things that were
made in Taiwan!

Supplies
If you take any kind of prescribed medicine, bring along a
good supply. A 'good supply' will last for twice as long as you
plan to stay. Notes from your physician concerning your
medication can make life easier. When Custom Officials see
medications and medical supplies, they can be touchier than
the Empress crew searching for Vraxoin smugglers. Keep
your medication in the original containers, carry it with you,
and be polite if questioned.

Over-the-counter drugs are available in Britain, but if you

really have to treat your cold with a multi-purpose pill or
liquid, you'd better bring it along too. The cold/cough
remedies in England are of the simple, not the complex type.
You get your medicine at a 'Chemist's' and they are more than
willing to suggest native potions. However, they will ask you
very direct questions about your problem. ('Is it a loose, chesty
cough or a dry, hacking cough?') so be ready to explain your
symptoms. (We have no idea what you might be asked if you
complain about diarrhoea.) If you have more than one problem
(runny nose and a cough), you will wind up getting something
for each. This is when that large purse/camera case comes in
handy.

Electrical appliances - shavers, curling irons, hair driers,

irons, steamers, etc. - one word: don't (unless your country is
on the same electrical system as Britain). The British electrical
system requires a plug with three pins and an appliance that
can handle 240V (American is 120V). Some appliances claim
that they are 'dual voltage' but they will still need an adapter
because of the plug. This is more bother than it's worth.

Adapters take up space and add unnecessary weight. Go
wrinkled, it's the 'in' look. Wash and wear hair styles are
possible for anyone and the 'wet' look is in high fashion. If you
boil your contacts, however, that's a different situation. It's
easier to get a good (expensive) adapter to keep your contacts
clean than to have your landlady boil them in her teakettle - or
to get new eyeballs. As with medications, if you wear glasses
or contacts, it's a good idea to bring along a back-up pair. If
you can't do this, get a copy of your prescription and carry it
with you.

If you are bringing a camera, bring lots of film. Film is

more expensive in Britain than in America (we're not sure
about other countries), and it's worth the weight and trouble.
No matter what you might have been told, believe that all
airport X-ray machines will fog your film - exposed or
unexposed. While you can carry your film in lead-line
pouches (one version for low speed and another for high), it's
still always safer to have your film) and your camera if it has a
film in it!) 'hand inspected' by airport security. Ask politely,
but firmly. (Jean uses a lead pouch and hand inspection.) Keep
your film together so you don't have to hunt around for it.

Customs will let you bring in most things for your personal

use. There is a limit on cigarettes and liquor, but none on
money, film or other items that you will personally use. Leave
your cat, dog, pet boa constrictor or singing seagull at home:
you can't bring in live animals. Check with your country's
Custom Department to see how much you can buy in Britain
and return without paying duty. (The USA allows $400 if
you've been out of the country for more than forty-eight
hours). Keep your receipts!

In packing toiletries, try to find the small travel sizes. \ Even

if you have to bring two of something, it will still be less s
than the one 'regular' size, and, as soon as one is used up (or
just before you leave to fly home), you can throw it away.

Pack aerosol cans and bottles with liquid in them very

carefully. Avoid aerosol cans if at all possible; they could

explode in an unpressurized baggage compartment on a plane.
Make sure caps are on tighdy or whatever is in your bag will
receive a drenching. Put all cans and bottles in a plastic zip-
top type bag to be sure. The larger size of these bags is also
handy for storing dirty clothes and keeping them separated (in
every way) from your clean ones.

Throw in a couple of sheets of dryer-type fabric softener to

help keep things fresh. The number will vary according to the
length of your stay. They can also be used when you find that
elusive coin-operated laudromat.

You'll find it worthwhile to pack a few first aid items: a

small tin of aspirin, some bandages, and some antiseptic. You
should also pack some facial tissue (the pocket packages are
most convenient) since the toilet paper in many places in
Britain (including the trains) is, to say, the least, not
'squeezably soft.' It does, however, make excellent writing
paper. At the same time, don't forget your wash cloth (as these
are almost non-existent in Britain) and some soap in a plastic
case.

For amusement on the plane or travelling on the train, you

may want to bring a pack of cards, a pocket game of some
type, or some reading material you can throw away when
you're done. (Not one of your priceless Doctor Who books!)

See The Master's Check List for all the items we suggest you

do bother bringing.

Credit Cards
Lots of people love credit cards - thieves, pickpockets, pushy
salespeople ('Oh, you won't be billed for months!'). On the
other hand, if you're going to rent a car, you will need a credit
card to handle the deposit. Otherwise you could be waiting
months for the deposit to be returned. Be selective in what you
bring and how you use it/them. Don't flash them around, don't
leave them in your luggage, and whenever you use one, make
sure the exchange rate is written down. This keeps the

You Are Not the Doctor

Language
The Doctor - thanks to a Time Lord Gift - and his companions
never have to worry about what language they're speaking, but
British English is not American English. This is a fact for
which the sixth Doctor is very grateful. In order to provide the
basis for some common communication, here are some (but
not all) terms and words that we've run into.

Starting with the most important area:

British Food Terms

Bacon: Thin slices of ham with quite a bit of fat left on. Turns
up at breakfast. Don't try to order a BLT.
Bangers: A sausage made up of more filling than meat
product (don't ask where the meat product comes from!). Not
recommended for daily consumption - even if you're Tristan
Farnon. As referred to in 'Bangers and Mash', served with
mashed potatoes.
Biscuits: Cookies - all different kinds. Sometimes called
digestive biscuits. May be plain or frosted. A nice gift to bring
home to baby brother or sister (if you can keep from eating
them on the plane!).
Bubble and Squeak: Not a reference to the fleshy Daleks, this
is fried cabbage and potatoes. Usually the ingredients have
been left over from another meal. Not seen in the better
restaurants, but you wouldn't see a Dalek in them either (we
hope).

Clotted Cream: A whipped cream taste with a soft butter look
and consistency. Don't think about the name, try it on scones
or fresh fruit.
Cornish Pasties: A fluffy (at best) to soggy (at worst) meat,
potato and seasoning filled turnover type pastry. Can be
served hot, cold, and/or stale.
Crisps:  Potato Chips. Buy some to feed the mad ducks at
Cambridge.
Fillet: A general term for beefsteak, the menu specifies which
portion (e.g. sirloin, rump, mignon, etc.). The final 't' is
pronounced, not left silent as it is in French. If you want your
steak really rare (just this side of twitching), ask for it 'blue'.
Remember, 'bloody' is an expletive, not an indication of how
done/undone you want your meat (you may want to refer to
your meat as 'bloody' if it's cooked too much).
French Dressing: In Britain, it's clear and very much like oil
and vinegar.
Fried Mushrooms: Come cooked in two wildly different
styles: either sauteed in butter or dipped in a light batter and
deep fried. Consult the chef to see what he has in mind before
ordering.
Gammon:   Ham. Not the acting kind, but the pig kind. Jean
always thought that it was a kind of spoiled beef, but she's
now tried it and admits that she was wrong.
Gateau:   A perfectly ordinary French (don't ask us why the
British are using it) word for cake. Usually turns up on menus
as a very creamy cake with a large dollop of extra cream on
top. More than one are gateaux.
Ginger beer: Liked by the fourth Doctor and despised by
Sarah. This is a spicy kind of ginger ale. Worth a try if only to
see who you agree with.
High Tea: Don't be fooled, the name has nothing to do with
the alcohol content of the drink. This can be regarded as either
an overpoweringly filling afternoon 'snack' or a very early
supper. It is 'tea' served with meat: either fish and

chips (with the inevitable peas), or eggs and bacon/sausages
with chips, or a chicken 'salad' along with a three-tiered tray
loaded (separately, on each shelf) with scones, pancakes, and
gateaux. Naturally, tea or coffee is also served and the whole
concoction costs about £4-5.
Kipper:  A smoked fish (herring) served at breakfast with all
its bones in. Although we're told that you can eat the bones,
most visitors pick around them. This is a great way to get
yourself rolling in the morning . . . if only to get away from
the incredible odour!
Lemonade: A carbonated 7 Up or Sprite-like drink.
Lemon Squash: Squeezed lemon and sugar in water.
Pancake:  Forget Perkins Pancake House and Aunt Jemima.
Although the ingredients are the same (milk, flour, and eggs
grilled on a hot skillet), the British version is about

A inch

thick, served cold and eaten with butter and jam, not syrup
(see High Tea).
Pate: A meat spread of (usually) undetermined origin. Can be
either dry and crumbly or as firm as braunschweiger.
Ploughman's Lunch: A good-sized chunk of French bread
with accompanying chunks of cheese or pate, relish, and
lettuce/tomato slices. You put it together any way you want.
Very filling at a cost of less than £1.50. Usually a good deal at
a pub.
Prawn (also King Prawn): Little and big shrimp by any other
name. Very affordable. Laurie suspects that in their native
habitat they resemble Tractators, but we didn't look into it too
closely.
Salad, Chicken: Not to be confused with the sandwich filling
mixture. English chicken salad consists of a piece (or pieces)
of roast chicken served on a bed of lettuce leaves with a
garnish of watercress and sliced tomatoes.
Salad, Garden Green: About as prevalent as blue police
boxes. If found, bears little resemblance to its American
counterpart. Consists primarily of lettuce, cucumber slices,

and tomatoes, although mushrooms and carrot slices have
been known to appear. It is possible to find a salad bar but
you'll have to look long and hard. If you're lucky, you might
even find a dash of macaroni or a coleslaw-type salad but
hardly any Krynoids.
Scone:  A  heavy biscuit, usually loaded with raisins. Good in
the middle of the afternoon or as a dessert. Commonly served
with clotted cream and jam.
Shandy: A relatively innocuous mixture of beer and lemonade
or ginger beer. Available in pubs and as a canned 'soft drink.'
A good thirst quencher with very low alcohol content. Don't
be embarrassed about ordering one.
Steak and Kidney Pie: A kind of pot pie filled with chunks of
beefsteak, potatoes, occasionally vegetables, and (gulp!) real
kidneys, all baked in a rich gravy covered by a flaky pastry. If
you can forget what's in it, it's not bad.'
Tandoori: Indian (Not as in American-Red, although the sauce
is that colour) cooking done in a clay oven with a vaguely
barbecued flavour. Often part of the name of Indian
Restaurants.
Toad-In-The-Hole:  Not a reference to a particular style of
American fandom, this is a sausage cooked in a pop-over
dough.
White Coffee:   Coffee with cream.

Other Terms

Bathroom: Not where the swimming pool and Sontaran-eating
plants are, this is where you take a bath or shower. Do not
confuse with 'lavatory' or 'loo.'
Boffin: A scientist. The Doctor was, therefore, UNIT's boffin.
Boot: The trunk or luggage compartment of a car. Not what
we'd like to give Michael Grade.
BoxJunction: A traffic intersection.
Circus: A traffic circle, as in Piccadilly Circus.

Closet:   A small room. What the average person would expect
on stepping into the TARDIS. Also the size of sleeping
compartments on trains.
Demister:   A defroster on a car.
Elastoplast:   A Band Aid.
Excuse Me: Not an apology but used as the start of a conver-
sation when you need to ask someone something. As in:
'Excuse me, could you please ask your dog to release my
pant's leg?'
Flat Battery:   A dead battery.
Fuggy:   Stuffy, airless.
Jumper:   A lady's sweater.
Lavatory:  The bathroom or the WC (Water Closet), also
known as the ioo.' There don't seem to be any on the TARDIS.
Over the Top:   Also OTT. Overacting, overdoing things,
showing more enthusiasm than is considered proper. British
fans' classification of American fans.
Panda Car:   A police car.
Plimsolls:   Sneakers: what the fifth Doctor wore on his feet.
Ring up:   To call on the phone. 'To call' means a visit in
person.
Saloon: A four door car.
Shingle:  What you find on the beaches at Brighton and
Dungeness. Noisy pebbles. Small rocks. Not the painful rash.
Sorry: Not an abject apology, but used to cover general klutzy
things like bumping into people. Major klutziness requires
abject apologies.
Suspenders:   What a woman uses to hold up her stockings.
Underlinen:   Underwear.
Widdershins: Counterclockwise.
VAT:  Value Added Tax. 15,% gets tacked on to almost
everything that you buy. Restaurants and hotels are supposed
to give the price with this already on. Check to be sure.

Living British
There are times when we think fans are the sole support of the
telephone system. As a matter of fact, there are times when we
think we're the sole support of the American telephone
system. Odds are, at some point on your trip, you you too will
have to use the telephone.

British Telephone System
Using the British telephone system is an adventure fully equal
to having Duggan as a partner - you never quite know when
someone's going to get knocked out.

The first thing to realise is that a private telephone in

England is not as common as it is in many other countries.
Unless you're willing to pay more for your room in a hotel,
you will find it's much less costly to use the public phone
down the hall than to have the 'privilege' of having a phone in
your room.

To start off, there are several different types of public

phones. (You didn't think this was going to be any easier than
figuring out the monetary system, did you?) They all work on
the same basic principle (except the ones that take credit cards
only!): you pick the phone up, dial the number, and when
there's an answer, put in your money.

Sound simple?
So does 'reversing the polarity of the neutron flow.'
What you have to do before you start to dial is to see what

coins the phone takes and then make sure you have the correct
ones out of your pocket and neatly stacked on the phone box.
Some phones take 5 and lOp coins; some take 10 and 20p
coins. Either way, have the money ready first then go ahead
and dial.

(One note about British telephone numbers - don't expect

them to make sense. They can be either a six-figure number,
an eight-figure number, or even a ten-figure number. In fact
there might even be an exchange name instead of a number.
Simple - right?)

As soon as you finish dialling the number, grab the first coin

from your stack and have it ready to put in the slot. (Not yet! It
won't accept it before the call goes through. Just hope it takes
it then.) When the phone is answered, you will hear the person
at the other end say, 'Hel. .. ' and then the most awful beeping
noise will start, completely negating any effort to
communicate. This beeping is known as 'the pips.' People who
have heard them would like to call them something else.
When the pips go off, you have about half-a-second to get
your money in the slot (this is when you find out if your phone
will accept the money or not). If you don't get your money in
the phone in time . . . you'll be disconnected.

Once you get your money in, you can talk to the other

person (if you haven't been permanently deafened by the pips)
but you must immediately get your next coin ready. Why?
Because at any second the pips may go off again and you've
only got another half-second to feed that hungry monster. To
avoid further hassles you can, if you Want, put money in
ahead of time but most public phones will not give change.
(Any wonder why foreign visitors sometimes come out of
phone booths muttering, 'Exterminate!'?)

To make things easier, there are some public phones in

London that use an LCD to tell you how much 'credit' you
have. If you watch the display you can see when you're almost
down to 0. According to these phones, it costs 8p to make a
'basic' call within London. Of course the smallest amount you
can put in is lOp and, while these phones will give change, it
has to be lOp or more. (Welcome to Alice in Wonderland.)

If you're calling a British friend (as opposed to a business)

your friend will often realise you're at a public booth and will
ask for the number to call you back. If you're calling from a
public place such as a restaurant, you may be asked by the
proprietor to hang up when your friend calls back and you
start to talk. We're not sure why, maybe they get some kind of
commission on the mqney that's put into the phone.

If you have a phone in your hotel room you may be tempted

to call home. Don't do this without checking to see what the
hotel charges for overseas calls. While the oversea rate per se
may not be exorbitant, many hotels jack up the normal rate
with a ridiculously high surcharge. If you're planning on
calling home, get a telephone credit card before you leave and
use it to 'phone home' from a public box. However, be sure
your card is good for overseas calls - some 'discount' ones
aren't. One final word, unless it's truly urgent, don't call home,
send postcards. They're cheaper, prettier, and a heckuva lot
easier to deal with!

Houseguesting - Visiting Ol’ Con Buddies and Pen Pals
You may know someone in Great Britain - maybe even
someone you have actually met in person at a Convention.
You may have remarked 'I'm planning on visiting England,'
and they may have said, 'Oh, you must stop by while you're
over.'

Do not take this remark seriously. Do not plan on saving

money by camping out with your friend during your entire
visit. Make all your plans and your budget as if your friend did
not exist. Then contact him/her and mention that you will be
coming over and when. You will also mention at this time that
you are planning on staying at the XYZ hotel. If your friend is
really serious about having you as a guest, he/she will
immediately protest and try to persuade you to change your
mind and stay with them. On the other hand, if Aunt Mabel
and Uncle Harry and their three dogs have just moved in,
occupying all the spare sleeping space, your friend will be
delighted to visit you and you can tour the town together in
comfort and good friendship.

There is a saying that after three days fish and house-guests

stink. Accept this as true and, even if you are invited, do not
overstay your welcome. To be sure that you are welcomed
while you are visiting, make your bed, help clear the dinner
table and do the dishes. If you make a long distance call from

a friend's house, ask the operator to give you the charges
beforehand. The British phone bills do not itemise long
distance calls. Offer to pay for local calls as well; your host's
bill is calculated on a per call basis. Check on bathing
procedures. Sometimes the water must be specially heated for
a bath.

Yet another thing to consider - and not an unimportant one -

where your friend lives and what your friend wants to do may
not completely mesh with your schedule. London is a big city.
Commuting to some of the tourist attractions from the outer
areas is not difficult but does take time. And, while you are on
vacation, your friend may not be - meaning you might be able
to wander around during the day but have to be back 'home'
when your friend gets off work. Consider how much of your
freedom you want to give up for a 'free' bed.

If you do visit a friend while you are in Britain, always

phone ahead. If you are invited to dinner, bring or send
flowers, wine, champagne, or some token gift.

Forgotten Words and Customs
While we cannot speak for the fans of all other nations, it is
very apparent to us that while American fans have an abun-
dance of energy and enthusiasm, they do not always have an
equal quantity of the social graces - also known as manners.

No matter where you're from, remember that when visiting

Britain you are representing your country. While the Doctor
never seems to be concerned with the right way to do things,
you should be.

Dust off some old words you may have forgotten how to

use:

Please.
Thank you.
I'm sorry.
Could you help me?
Excuse me.
Would you mind?

Is it possible?

Think of these as phrases that will guide you safely through

the Exillon city. Start using them long before you make your
trip. (You may even find that life gets easier at home!) Keep
your voice down (the British really do not like to listen to
other people's conversations), never shout, and insert the
magic phrases at every opportunity.

Don't say, 'Hey, how do I get to the train station!'
Say, 'Excuse me, but could you tell me how to get to the

train station from here?' And, after getting the answer, 'Thank
you very much.'

It is not silly or out of line to be reasonably polite to every-

one you meet in the country you are visiting. We have found
that just being, as the fourth Doctor observed, 'terribly nice to
each other - for a change,' makes your visit much more
enjoyable.

Don't think the British are cold or inhospitable, though.

While they are politely reluctant to break into conversation
with strangers, a chance, politely asked question can lead you
into a fascinating conversation. It's here that your enthusiastic
love of the country will smooth things over. Don't dwell on
any unpleasant things you might have experienced, but, if you
are asked, expand on the positive. Nothing pleases a native
more than realising that foreigners appreciate the virtues of his
or her country. Just don't try it with someone on the
Underground who's reading a newspaper!

The British are just a bit more reserved than Americans.

Don't indulge in overly demonstrative gestures - the slap on
the back, the arm around the shoulder, the greeting hug
(although we know some British folks who really enjoy that,
but we're not saying who). On the other hand, it is quite
acceptable for porters, newspaper vendors, and bus and train
conductors to call a strange person of the opposite sex 'Love
(Luv),' 'Duck,' 'Dearie,' or even 'Darling.' Go with the flow,
grin and bear it, and enjoy being in Britain.

Always stand when the British National Anthem God Save

The Queen is played. (American fans should note: This is not
My Country 'Tis of Thee being played in your honour!).

You may be greeted with an initial reaction and a guess as to

the country of your origin. After that, if the subject drifts
round to Doctor Who, you'll find you've provided your new
acquaintance with a source of amazement that not only do
you, a foreigner, get the show in your country but that you like
it. This amazement seems to increase in direct ratio to your
age.

Don't talk about politics or religion with anyone -especially

in a pub. While in a pub, never try to summon the barperson
by snapping your fingers or tapping a coin on the bar. Smile
politely and you'll get served. Don't try to tip the barman; offer
to buy him a drink instead.

If you put your feet up on the seat of a railway car, put

something under them to keep the seat clean. Your luggage
belongs in the luggage storage area of the car, not blocking the
aisles or taking up seating space.

Queuing is a matter of course in Britain. American fans

know it as standing in line at conventions to get autographs.
Never jump the queue. The look a Britisher can give you is
fully as effective as the Master's matter condensation gun. If
you're not sure that there is a queue, ask before jumping to
conclusions.

You will find that your own enthusiasm is better than any

Time Lord gift. Enjoy where you are and what you're doing,
and you'll find the people you meet as fascinating as the
country.

London - Where It All Began

There is no Totters Lane - although there are junkyards -and
blue police boxes are no more. The Doctor no longer works
for UNIT, and the Brig has retired. But there is much of
Doctor Who in London, easily enough to keep a fan occupied
for a year. Since it's unlikely that you will have a year to spend
in London, you may have to choose what you want to do.

On Arrival
Most planes that fly to England arrive at either Heathrow or
Gatwick airports. However, if either airport is fogged in
(Gatwick seems to be more apt to have fog problems), you ,
could land at another airport such as Manchester or Prestwick
(Scotland). We'll anticipate an uneventful flight and only
discuss Heathrow and Gatwick. Since Doctor Who adventures
have taken place and been filmed at both spots, you're on your
way to your Doctor Who tour.

Heathrow, as the Doctor found out in 'Time-Flight'

(Davison, 1982), is a very large airport.' Time-Flight' was one
of the very few times permission has been granted to film at
Heathrow. One theory had it that someone in the British
Airports Authority was a Doctor Who fan! Outside of some
open-air shots around the planes, the international terminal is
the most recognisable of the sites used. Heathrow itself
handles not only many international, but also domestic flights.

There are three major terminals, with overseas flights using

Terminal Three. Most flights from America arrive before any
of the facilities at the Terminal are open, but if you arrive at a
more reasonable hour of the morning, you will find, just after
you've cleared customs, an area where you can book hotels
(but you've already done that, right?), a bank to change your
money (but you've already done that), restrooms (well, we
won't tell you what to do about that - did you pack your
pocket-tissues?), and a British Rail information counter. If you
have a British Rail Pass, you do want to stop here and get your
pass validated.

If you've already decided that you're travelling with too

much stuff, you can leave some of it at the Left Luggage
Office in Terminal Three. There is a walkway that will take
you from the terminal to the bus departure area. The Al goes
to Victoria Station, the A2 goes to Paddington, and the A3
goes to Euston. All three stop at major hotel areas on the way.
The cost is about £2.50. These are the famous and familiar red
double-decked buses, so sit on top if you can and be prepared
to take in your first view of London.

There is also an Underground Station at Heathrow in the

centre of the airport complex and a moving stairway to take
you there. The Underground fare to go to Piccadilly Circus is
about £1.50. Even though the buses are about a pound more
than the Underground, we'd recommend the bus. The
Underground is fast, but you don't get to see anything of
London. A taxi ride into London will cost you £14-15.

The woods surrounding Heathrow were used in 'The

Visitation' (Davison, 1982) and because of the frequency of
the incoming flights, scenes had to be done in two minute
segments to avoid including the roar of jet engines in what
was supposed to be seventeenth-century England.

Gatwick is a smaller airport than Heathrow and seems to be

used more by the 'budget' airlines - or, in some cases, for
budget flights. Gatwick was the location used in the
Troughton episodes, 'The Faceless Ones' (1967) and 'Evil of

the Daleks' (1967); so once again your Doctor Who voyage
can begin immediately on arrival. In 'The Faceless Ones', the
TARDIS materialised on one of the runways (in front of an
oncoming jet!) and in 'Evil of the Daleks', the TARDIS - still
at the airport - was stolen and driven off in a lorry. In light of
these events, airports don't seem to be good places for the
Doctor to visit. Hopefully you'll have an easier time of it.
Most of the airport scenes were filmed 'round back' in the
hangar areas, but they did use the main concourse - right in the
middle of a normal weekday!

Gatwick has direct train service into London's Victoria

station, and you can get your British Rail Pass validated at the
airport. Trains leave frequently, and we recommend them. The
trip takes about an hour and will bring you into London
through East Croydon and across the River Thames. Cost
without a British Rail Pass is about £3.

Taxi cabs are at the airport and will be glad to take you into

town - boy, are they ever glad to take you! Check on the fare
before you get in the cab. It should be £18-30. If it's what you
want to pay, fine. If not, take the train.

If you arrive at Victoria Station, there is a marvellous

London Tourist Information shop there with all kinds of maps
and books and goodies. Since you're not carrying a ton of
luggage (right?), you might want to stop and buy some
reading/reference material.

Where To Stay
In the bibliography you will find many publications that list
places to stay. We won't attempt to duplicate their suggestions.
One note of caution though, be sure you understand what any
publication means by 'moderate' and 'inexpensive.' Jean thinks
the American Express pocket guide to London is the greatest
thing since the sonic screwdriver for getting around town, but
their idea of an 'inexpensive' double room costing $45-$65 is
not hers. They do, however, have a classification of 'cheap'
which is less than $45. So be sure that you are speaking the

same language as the book you're reading! Also check the
copyright date in the book. Prices do go up (seldom down) and
a book that's been in print without revisions for two or more
years can be mightily misleading.

Big Hotels
There are many big hotels in London. There is even a Holiday
Inn in London. There is a Hilton in London. There are also the
famous British big hotels: the Savoy, Claridges, the Ritz. A
London  big  Hotel tends to be expensive -upwards of £90 a
night for a single. Now, if you saved your money for your trip
to Britain and want to spend it on a hotel room - when there
are so many other marvellous things to spend it on, go right
ahead. Your Travel Agent will help you find a nice big hotel.

Small Hotels
There are also many small hotels in London. A small hotel can
be just as nice as a big hotel, much more friendly, and half the
price. (Although we should note that anywhere  you stay in
London will cost more than similar facilities outside the
town.) A small hotel, even though it is a hotel,  might still be
offering a real breakfast (as opposed to the 'continental style' -
rolls and coffee). And small hotels are also located in
interesting places. Again, your travel agent will help you find
a small hotel. Most small hotels will routinely have bathrooms
attached to the sleeping room that you rent, but it never hurts
to check this fact out before booking.

Bed and Breakfast
A B&B place is usually a converted home with very few
people staying there at any one time. You usually do not have
a bath attached to the bedroom but share a bath with the other
residents. However, there are B&B places that have rooms
with bath and, even paying for the bath, the price is usually
lower than even a small hotel. Check to see exactly what  the
price includes before deciding where to stay.

Almost every B&B offers a full breakfast - and if you're

gallivanting around the country or around London you will
need the energy. 'English' breakfasts consist of juice, cereal,
eggs, bacon or sausage, toast, fried bread, coffee/tea - and
additional goodies that might include kipper, broiled tomatoes
and grilled mushrooms. A 'London' breakfast doesn't have the
additions - but is quite adequate for fuel for a morning about
town.

Be warned, you may be on an upper floor of the B&B with

no elevator! Frankly, we like B&Bs and stay in them when
we're touring the countryside as well as when we're in London
(although there we do splurge and get an attached bath). Your
travel agent may suggest in a friendly fashion that you do
some research and decide what B&B you'd like to try. There
are lots of them in London.

Check out the location. Try to get one that's close to an

Underground Station. If you're coming back late from the
theatre, it's nice to have a short walk 'home.' You should also
check the area of town where the B&B is located - and the
restaurants and such that are nearby. Some parts of London
swing all night long, while others settle down. Leicester
Square and Piccadilly Circus are noisy locations -which might
be just what you want. Each B&B is different. Your landlady
may have a strict curfew, or you may be given a key to the
front door. Don't be afraid to shop around for exactly what you
want.

Hostels and Such
There are youth hostels and dormitories in Central London -as
well as the suburban areas. (A British 'dormitory' is a very
large room with lots of beds.) You can make your reservations
in advance (six weeks!) by writing to the London Tourist
Board. If you should (and we don't recommend it!) happen to
arrive in London without any reservations, you can get help
finding a place to stay from the Information Centre at Victoria
Station.

If you're an adventurous sort, you might want to try camping

out - you can do that even in London - on the outskirts, not in
Hyde Park. Or if you're going to be travelling with others and
staying in London or the country for a full week or more, you
might want to check out 'self-catering' . There are apartments
that you can rent in weekly intervals, and, for several people,
this might be a convenient alternative to a hotel.

How to Get Around

Underground
One of the easiest, quickest, and cheapest ways to get around
London is the Underground, or, as it's more familiarly known,
the Tube. (Don't call it the Subway: subways are underground
pedestrian tunnels used to cross busy streets without having to
fight the traffic.) The Underground stops are clearly marked,
both on the street and on maps, and you shouldn't have any
trouble finding one.

There are two ways to buy your ticket once you find the

nearest Underground Station. The easiest (once you get the
hang of it) is using the ticket machine that has your ultimate
destination printed on it, putting in the correct thange, and
being prepared to grab the ticket when the machine spits it out
at you. Of course this means a little organisation on your part.
First, you must (unlike the Doctor) know where  you want to
go. You must decide which is the closest Tube Station to your
destination and know which  Underground Line will get you
there. London Transport has free maps showing the various
lines - all colour coded - and the names of the Tube Stations.
The colour coded maps are repeated on the walls in each
station so you really  know where you're going. They're so
simple, even Harry Sullivan could understand them.

Once you know where you want to go, scan the row of ticket

machines near the entrance of the Tube Station. Each machine
has the names of the stations its tickets serve -printed in
alphabetical order - on it along with the price of the ticket. The
price will vary depending on the distance your destination is

from where you are and can range from 40p to over £1.20 (if
you're visiting Sarah Jane in South Croydon). Insert your coins
and be ready to grab your ticket and your change (if any) and
head for the turnstiles.

When you get there, you'll find a slot on your present side of

the turnstile rail. Insert your ticket in it and you can go
through the stile. Don't leave the stile until you collect your
ticket from the side you are now on. Your ticket will
magically follow you through and come spitting out from a
slot near your hand. Take your ticket along with you. Don't
forget and don't lose it!

Find the line you need and follow the signs to the platform.

You will probably need to know if you're travelling west or
east or north or south, so be prepared. There is no smoking
allowed in any carriage. Board your train, get off at the station
of your destination, and proceed to the exit. Give your ticket
to the collector as you leave and you've successfully
negotiated the London Underground.

To transfer from One Underground Line to another - at a

station where the lines intersect, do everything as before
except: do not exit the station. Get on the new line, proceed to
your destination, and only then exit.

The second way of obtaining your ticket is to go to the

ticket-seller's booth and tell the person in the cage where you
want to go. They will tell you the price, you hand over the
money, and they will give you the ticket. Everything else is
the same. This sounds easier, but the line to buy tickets can
stretch for miles during rush hour. Besides, you're smarter
than the machines, right? So prove your superiority!

If you are planning to stay in London for any length of time,

you might want to purchase a London Explorer Pass. It gives
you unlimited travel on the Underground and/or buses and is
available for three, four, or seven days. The prices range from
£8-13 for adults and £3-5 for children five through fifteen (as
of March, 1985). With this, you will also get vouchers for
reductions on London Transport Sightseeing and Guided

Tours plus discounts at various museums and shops in
London: a bargain to keep in mind. If you buy this before
leaving for Britain it also covers Airbus or Underground
service to London from Heathrow.

Don't think that the London Underground is anything like

the New York Subway System. It's neat, well organised, and
safe (don't get careless with purses or wallets though). One
thing to watch out for - when you are riding a train it may stop
in the middle of a tunnel for a minute or so. Don't panic! -
even if you've forgotten your towel. You probably won't be
able to see the sign, since it's placed where only the driver of
the train can see it, but the wonderful people who run the
Underground have managed to make peace with the Yeti who
still roam the area. When your train stops, it's because you
have come to a Yeti crossing.

Just be patient. As soon as the Yeti has crossed the track,

your journey will resume. We can't reveal our source for this
top secret information - so you mustn't tell anyone else. But
when your train stops in the tunnel, just mutter 'Yeti Crossing'
to yourself and be thankful for British diplomacy.

You will also notice that some people who are using the

Tube are caught in a chronic hysteresis. As you use the
escalators to go up or down levels, you will, of course, follow
the instructions to stand to the right and walk on the left. You
will notice some people who feel a necessity to run and leap
on the left. Don't follow their example! Watch them -and
you'll find that for all their effort they will wind up catching
the same train that you do by not hurrying. The rush hours for
the Underground are from 8.30-9.30 am and 4.30-6.30 pm.
These are not so much rush as crush: avoid the tube at these
times if you can.

If you're planning a really late night out, be aware that the

underground is closed from midnight until about 6.00 am.
There are special Night buses that you can take if you get
caught out.

Bus
There are many buses in London and they go everywhere.

You can get a map from London Transport that shows all

the bus routes including connecting information (it also has a
map of the Underground).

All buses are numbered and it is possible, by using the map,

to figure out exactly what bus or buses you need to catch to
where. Riding the bus has the advantage of letting you look at
London while you're getting somewhere. If you're in a hurry,
remember that the bus will take longer than the Tube.

Bus stops are marked with a red and white and black bus

stop sign if the bus always stops there, or with a red and white
sign if you have to signal the driver to stop. Your fare will be
based on how far you're travelling and how many fare zones
you're crossing. The conductor or conductress will ask where
you're going and will then tell you what to pay and will give
you a ticket. Hang on to the ticket until you leave the bus - or
you might have to pay again.

The big red double-decker buses are local London buses.

Smokers must use the top deck. These behemoths stop
everywhere. The smaller single decker red buses (where
smokers sit in the back) stop only at 'main line' stations,
providing a sort of express bus service. The green buses go
outside London to immediately oudying areas.

Feet
London is a big city - but it's very dense. You can walk almost
anywhere in London and find something fascinating to see.
Some of the books in the bibliography detail regular tourist-
type walking tours. We'll give you some suggested walking
tours designed especially for the Doctor Who fan in this
section.

Remember that traffic will never come from where you

expect, so always look both ways before crossing a street.
Cross only on a pedestrian crossing.

Pedestrian crossings are either Zebra Crossings or Pelican

Crossings. A crossing with slanted white lines painted in the
street and equipped with amber flashing lights atop poles on
the sidewalks on each side of the street is a zebra crossing.
You do not have to be a black and white horse to use one of
these. They are crossings for you, the pedestrian, and you have
the right of way! All the time - even in rush hour - cars must
stop and let you cross safely. That's the theory, anyway. The
other type of crossing is known, for no reason that we can
determine, as a pelican crossing. It is a crossing that is
controlled by a light - and you must obey the light!

Use some common sense in deciding when and where you're

going to walk. Follow routine city-smart precautions about
carrying money, purses, and camera equipment safely.

Cabs
There is no rule that all cabs in London must be big and black,
but most of them are. The drivers are well trained, and, if you
stick to one of the big cabs (even if it's not black) that has a
meter, you should be fine. You can try to flag down a cab
when the yellow 'For Hire' sign on the top is lit. When you get
inside the cab, you should see both the meter and a schedule
of charges posted behind the driver's seat. If the cab has no
meter, you'd probably be better off to get out, or you really
could be taken for a ride.

The cab drivers know their way around London - but

because of the proliferation of streets with the same name, you
must be prepared to give the driver a complete postal address
(including the British postal-zip-code if he requests it). Up to
five passengers can ride in a cab. You will pay extra over the
meter reading for each extra person (about 15p) and 5p for
each piece of luggage. Travelling at night and on Saturday or
Christmas costs more as well. On the whole, the cabs are
reasonable by big city standards. If you're homesick for the
thrill of an amusement park ride, a cab drive through London
will easily take its place.

If you've really bought out the town during your stay and

have piles of luggage, you might want to find out what it
would cost to take a cab back out to the airport.

Where To Go

Visiting the Beeb
The BBC is not Universal Studio. They do not expect tourists
to come bouncing along expecting a tour of the facility.
Everyone at the BBC is working every day to produce the top
quality programmes that we have grown to know and love.
This is not to say that you should not write and ask if you can
visit, simply that you should not be disappointed if you are
told that tours are not available. You could get lucky. The
timing of your request could be just right, or, if you have a
group, someone might decide that this would be a worthwhile
PR gesture to make (remember that all you are really doing is
taking them away from the work that they're being paid to do).

Once upon a time there was the BBC photo library. And

fans could make arrangements to visit it. And after conquering
with kindness the ogre who guarded the library, they could
look through albums of Doctor Who photos and buy them
(paying a premium price). That situation is no more (at least
according to our latest information). It may change again - so
you can write to the BBC and ask about visiting the photo
library, but once again, don't plan on getting in.

If you are writing the Beeb about anything, write at least

four months in advance. Their primary goal in life is not
necessarily answering your letter, so give them plenty of time
to respond.

Commercial Tours
There are very reasonably priced commercial tours of London
offered by highly competent people - Evans Evans, American
Express, Thomas Cook, Frames and Harrods - to name a few.
You might consider it worth the time to take a half day or a
day to go round on one of these offerings. It at least lets you

be sure that when you get back you will have seen (albeit very
quickly) the things most people expect a tourist in London to
have seen.

The London Transport authority offers a two hour tour of

London on a double decker bus. This is not a guided tour. You
can pick up a free printed map/guide before boarding the bus.
Basically what happens is that you get to sit on the bus and
look at things as the bus whizzes around London. This can be
especially interesting if the top is uncovered and it's raining. If
you're very good at reading maps and absolutely abhor having
someone tell you what you're looking at, you might find this
type of tour your cup of tea. These tours leave from Piccadilly
Circus, Victoria (Grosvenor Gardens), and Marble Arch.
London Transport also has several different guided tours.

A number of organisations offer an opportunity to see

London from the Thames river. Their boats are considerably
larger than the one the Doctor took out in 'The Talons of
Weng-Chiang', and you won't be attacked by any giant rats.
You can take luncheon tours, dinner tours, and just tour tours.
Some phone numbers are listed in the bibliography.

Walking Tours
Several groups offer professionally organised walking tours of
London. While not oriented to Doctor Who, some of the-
subject matter might be of interest to DW fans. There are tours
of Hidden London, Legal and Illegal London, Pub Walks,
Sherlock Holmes, ghosts, etc. Some groups will also organise
special tours for people with special interests. If there are
several of you, you might want to check this out (see the
bibliography for listings).

Special Doctor Who Places The two London places referred

to in 'An Unearthly Child' (Hartnell, 1963), Totters Lane and
Coal Hill School, don't exist, even though the sixth Doctor and
Peri returned to Totters Lane in 'Attack of the Cybermen'
(1985). But. . .

The following are some of the DW locations in London that

you might like to visit. While the itinerary is laid out as a
walking tour, remember that you can always take the
Underground, buses, or even taxis from one spot to the other.

While the Doctor was stranded here on Earth during the

UNIT years, we're sure that,he took the time to see London
properly. There are some things indicated on the walking tour
that are not 'strictly Doctor Who, but you might want to stop
and look at them anyway. Just remember, if you do stop, the
tour will take much longer than you can do at one time. Any
stops (for browsing, diversions into shops and museums, etc.)
will add that much more time to each tour. You could end up
taking weeks to do these suggestions in style! We've indicated
Underground connections wherever applicable, so you can
stop at any time and restart later. We do suggest that you have
a clear map of London along with you.

Tour One
Start at the Underground stop at High Street Kensington
(District and Circle Lines). Walk east on Kensington High
Street. On your right will be the K-Mart of Britain, Marks and
Spencer, along with the British Home Stores, Barkers (another
department store), and the Kensington Market for fashions old
and new. Across the street from the Kensington Market is the
Antique Hypermarket featuring Victorian jewellery,
eighteenth- and nineteenth-century silver, china and porcelain.
Browse if you like, and then continue east to Kensington
Road. Kensington Gardens will be on your left. This is where
the chase scene in ' The Mind of Evil' (Pertwee, 1971) was
filmed. To see Kensington Palace itself, turn left at Palace
Green.

Walk on down Kensington Road to Queens Gate and turn

into the gardens. Turn right on the next path and walk down to
the Albert Memorial 'The Dalek Invasion of Earth', (Hartnell,
1964).

You are not required - by us anyway - to admire the Albert

Memorial. Look on it as a true bit of uninspired art. It was
built in the 1870s at the 'express wish' of Queen Victoria as a
memorial to her husband, the Prince Consort, Albert. The
sculptor apparently did not share the Queen's feelings for
Albert. The bronze figure in the centre is supposed to be
Albert. He's holding the catalogue of the Great Exhibition that
he organised in Hyde Park. For some reason that escapes us,
the fifth Doctor was trying to get to that particular event at the
beginning of 'Time-Flight' (Davison, 1982).

Across from the Memorial is the Albert Hall. Although

normally used as a concert hall, it seats up to 8,500 people and
can be converted to hold boxing matches, conferences,
displays, and dances. It has never been used for a Doctor Who
convention. In the late summer and early autumn the famous
Promenade Concerts are held here. If the building looks bigj^t
is - almost !4 of a.mile around. Just to the west of Albert Hall
is the Royal College of Art and the Royal College of
Organists. The Royal Geographical Society is on the east side
of the Hall.

Walk past the Memorial and turn right on Exhibition Road.

As you walk down Exhibition Road, you will see the Science
Museum on your right. The Science Museum is devoted to
technological firsts and has lots of working models. (None,
we're sad to report, of a working TARDIS. Darn.) It's a great
place to visit for those who, like the third Doctor, are gadget-
minded. Items are clustered within the seven acres of
exhibition by subject. You might want to look at 'time' on the
first floor, or shapes in the form of mathematical models on
the second floor (you might find a working model of the
Dodecahedron!). Space exploration, photography and
cinematography are featured on the third floor, and the fourth
and fifth are devoted to medical history.

At the corner of Exhibition and Cromwell Road are two

museums - the Victoria and Albert, and the Natural History
Museum. They are both well worth visiting.

On your right is the Natural History Museum. Stepping into

the entry hall, you will immediately be surrounded by the
skeletons of huge dinosaurs. There's a discussion of their
evolution and disappearance - but no credit (or discredit) is
given to Adric!

The Victoria and Albert Museum, on the left, is a very

casual, relaxed museum. Devoted to the decorative arts, its
arrangement of rooms rivals that of the TARDIS, with seven
miles of galleries and corridors that wind around and about.
Besides collections of art and furniture, there are also
magnificent displays of glass, textiles, ironwork, ceramics,
and jewellery (is that a Time ring in the third case on the
left?). There are three refreshment rooms inside if you're
hungry or thirsty. (Underground: Gloucester Road -Piccadilly,
Circle and District Lines).

Cromwell Road merges with Brampton Road at the Oratory.

Take a quick trip down Beauchamp Place for some fascinating
stores - if you're in the mood for shopping. Continue on
Brampton Road to Harrods Department Store for some real
shopping.

Harrods claims that they can get you anything from a safety

pin to an elephant. Don't quite believe it - they couldn't get us
a TARDIS! Inside Harrods - along with everything else - is a
Tourist Information Office. (Underground: Knightsbridge -
Piccadilly Line).

Continue on and turn right (east) on Knightsbridge. To your

left is Hyde Park, and if you continue on Knightsbridge you
will come to Hyde Park Corner. Hyde Park was seen in 'The
Dalek Invasion of Earth'. Speaker's Corner, where Britons and
others exercise their right of free speech, is direcdy north of
you - take Park Lane or walk through the park. (Underground:
Hyde Park Corner - Piccadilly Line).

Straight ahead at Hyde Park Corner is Apsley House, the

Wellington Museum. The museum, which is open to the
public, is a tribute to the Duke of Wellington - who defeated
Napoleon at Waterloo. In 'The Reign of Terror' (Hartnell,

1964) Barbara and Ian saw the young general at the start of his
career, and the third Doctor claimed in 'The Sea Devils' that he
had coached him in battle techniques.

Walk through the Wellington Arch on Constitution Hill and

you will walk between Green Park and Buckingham Palace
Gardens and come to the Palace itself. We don't know if the
Doctor ever visited the Palace (although he has claimed to
have met many of the Royal family from time to time), but the
chances are unlikely that you will be asked to drop in. If the
royal standard is flying, then the Queen is home.

To watch the ceremonial Changing of the Guard, be sure to

be here by 11.30 am - earlier if you want to get a good
viewing position. The Guards' uniform, while basically the
same - great bearskin, scarlet tunic, and dark blue trousers -
uses plumes and button placement to distinguish between the
five regiments. The Grenadiers have a white plume and evenly
spaced buttons, the Coldstreams, a scarlet plume and paired
buttons, the Scots have no plume (poor guys) and buttons by
threes, the Irish have a blue plume and buttons by four, and
the Welsh have a green and white plume and buttons by fives.
Fans w,ho can tell exactly how many scarves Tom Baker ran
through during his seven years as the Doctor can go for the
button means of identification; all others try for plumes.

Go around the Palace on Buckingham Gate and you will

come to the Royal Mews where the Queen's carriages are kept.
If they are not being used, you can see them, including The
Gold State Coach. Just before the Mews is the Queens
Gallery, containing the Royal collection of art. It is also open
to the public. (Underground: Victoria - Circle, Victoria and
District Lines).

Return to the front of the Palace and walk by the back of the

Queen Victoria Monument and down the Mall. On your left
will be St James Palace, once the home of the British
Monarchy. Ambassadors from foreign countries still report to
the Court of St James. Walk straight on through Admiralty
Arch and you will enter Trafalgar Square. The chances for

seeing any stray Daleks prowling around (' The Dalek
Invasion of Earth') are slight. Trust us. The Nelson Memorial,
in the centre of the square, usually has at least a million
pigeons surrounding it - however, you can escape without
feeding them - we think. During High Season, there are - it
seems - at least another million tourists competing with the
pigeons. Don't feed them, either. Just for perspective: the
statue of Nelson on the top of the Memorial is slightly more
than seventeen feet high.

On the north side of the square are the National Gallery and

the National Portrait Gallery, both homes for some of the
finest art in the world. The National Portrait Gallery features
portraits (surprise!) - and you will quickly recognise some
familiar faces of Kings and Queens and other folks you've
studied in history. Also in the square is a monument to Charles
I. It overlooks his execution site and is the precise point from
which mileages to and from London are calculated.
(Underground: Charing Cross - Bakerloo, Northern, Jubilee
Lines).

Leaving Trafalgar Square and going south on Whitehall you

will pass assorted government buildings and the Horse
Guards. The two guards and their horses change shift every
hour, but must remain immobile until then. 11.00 am is the
time of the ceremonial mounting of the Guards.

You should recognise Big Ben (the big tower with the clock

on top) as you are walking down Whitehall, but note also that
you will be passing Downing Street. Number 10 houses the
Prime Minister of Great Britain. The election of Margaret
Thatcher was predicted in 'Terror of the Zygons'(T. Baker -
1975).

Coming up on the corner of Whitehall and Westminster

Bridge Street, you are at Big Ben, and, behind it, the Houses
of Parliament ('Terror of the Zygons'). Tours can be booked
for the Houses of Parliament, but don't expect to see the
Zygons or the Skarasen swimming down the Thames. We
don't suggest that you try swimming down the Thames either,

but the view is better from the river side - try a boat trip. You
can also walk out on Westminster Bridge and look at the view.
This is one of the bridges the Daleks roamed in 'The Dalek
Invasion of Earth.' Westminster Abbey - perhaps one of the
most famous churches in the world - is to your right. The
Abbey has stood since 1066 and contains much that is beloved
and beautiful of Britain. Tombs and shrines of Kings and
Queens, of brave men, of Lords and Ladies, and of poets can
be found under its roof as well as the sacred stone of Scotland,
the Stone of Scone, where Scottish Kings were crowned. It is
still used in the coronation ceremony to this day.
(Underground: Westminster - Circle and District Lines).

Leave this historic area by walking down Victoria

Embankment (' The Dalek Invasion of Earth' and ' The
Invasion'  (Troughton, 1968)). You can collapse on the
Underground at the Embankment (Circle, District, Northern
and Bakerloo Lines), or, with your last reserves of strength,
stroll on to Waterloo Bridge. Look across the Thames to see
the National Theatre which provided some exteriors for
'Frontier in Space' (Pertwee, 1973). Walk back to the
Embankment Underground.

Tour Two
Take the Underground to Covent Garden (Piccadilly Line) and
go south on James Street to Covent Garden Market. Or (since
the Covent Garden stop tends to get very  crowded), go to
Leicester Square (Piccadilly and Northern Lines) and walk
east on Cranbourn Street to Long Acre and then south on
James Street. While on Long Acre you might want to browse
in the bookstores. We recommend the Arts Council Bookshop
(8-9) and Stanfords (12-14). Covent Garden used to be the
main fruit, flower and vegetable market of London but has
now been replaced with shops and boutiques, and the smell of
rotten cabbage is no more. The site was used in 'The Web of
Fear'  (Troughton, 1968) and, while you won't see any Yeti
shopping here, you will find that the deliberately cultivated

eighteenth century atmosphere allows you an opportunity to
step back in time even without a TARDIS.

The London Transport Museum is now housed in the old

Flower Market Building. This fascinating museum tells the
story of London through its vehicles - all kinds, from the
earliest dates of transport in the city. By the time of this book's
publication, there should be a Theatre Museum here as well.

Across the street the Jubilee Market - which does not

cultivate an eighteenth century atmosphere - is a flea market
on Mondays, a Craft Centre on Saturday and Sunday and
specialises in fresh fruit at other times.

Leave Covent Garden on Russell Street (on the east side of

the Garden complex), and turn right on Wellington Street.
Walk down to the Strand and turn left-. As you walk down the
Strand on your right will be Somerset House. This is where
you used to go for all the records of births, deaths and
marriages. It's now the home for some government offices and
only occasionally, when there's a special exhibition, can
visitors see it.

Continue along the Strand and you will see a lovely church

on an island in the middle of the road. This is St Clement
Danes and was built originally in 1682 by Sir Christopher
Wren. It was totally destroyed by a bomb in 1941 and has
been carefully restored. This church has achieved immortality
of a sort through the nursery rhyme as a tithe was paid to the
church for the oranges and lemons that were brought up the
Thames for sale at Glare Market.

Just past St Clement Danes, the Strand becomes Fleet Street.

Since Sarah Jane Smith was a journalist, we can assume that
she worked for one of the newspapers that operate from this
area. Alas, only two today are actually on Fleet Street: look
for The Daily Telegraph and The Daily Express buildings.

Just as you enter Fleet Street, you will see the Temple on

your right. While the Doctor never had an enjoyable
experience with a lawyer 'The Highlanders' (Troughton,
1966), you may want to look at their primary abode here in

London. Had Colin Baker, the sixth Doctor, not decided to go
into acting, he might be working here. Visitors can walk into
the Temple and look around without having to pay a retainer
to anyone. The place got its name from its original builders,
the Knights Templar, who furthered the Christian cause during
the Crusades. 'The Crusades' (Hartnell, 1965).

Along the way on Fleet Street are two famous seventeenth-

century pubs, the Old Cock Tavern (a well-known hangout for
journalists) and the Cheshire Cheese, home away from home
for Samuel Johnson.

Coming to Ludgate CircUs, you can take a quick detour

down New Bridge Street to the Thames and Blackfriars
Bridge 'The Invasion'. Come back to Ludgate Circus and turn
right.

Crossing Ludgate Circus, Fleet Street becomes Ludgate Hill

- and ahead you will see the famous dome of St Paul's
Cathedral. It was in front of this London landmark that the
Cybermen walked in the classic scene in 'The Invasion'.

St Paul's was rebuilt by Sir Christopher Wren after it was

destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666 (and we know who to
blame for that, don't we!). It is as inspiring today as it was
then. Guided tours of the church are available, and there is a
booth inside selling literature as well as souvenirs. This is still
a house of worship, and there are services in the cathedral. If
you're up to climbing to the dome, you can test the acoustics
in the Whispering Gallery (don't shout!). Only 542 steps
further up, you can look at the view from the Golden Gallery.
Be warned: this is not a climb for someone with little head for
heights! We don't think Sarah Jane would have enjoyed it at
all. (Underground: St Pauls - Central Line).

Leave St Paul's and walk east along St Paul's Churchyard to

Cannon Street and then continue east along Cannon Street. At
the intersection of Cannon Street and Victoria Street you will
find Mansion House, the home of the Lord Mayor of London
– a home equipped with its own court and dungeons!

Continue along Cannon Street and as it intersects with King

William Street you will find the Monument to the Great Fire
(sound familiar?). The column itself is 202 feet high and
stands 202 feet from the baker's shop in Pudding Lane where
the Great Fire started in 1666 and where the Terileptils in 'The
Visitation' were based. You can climb to the top and get a
view of present day London. (Underground: Monument -
Circle, District Lines).

Walk down Monument Street to Thames (passing the (now

moved) Billingsgate Fish Market and Customs House on your
left), and you will see the Tower of London ahead of you.

The Tower did appear in a trailer for 'Day of the Daleks'

(Pertwee, 1972), with the Daleks running around it, but this
scene was not part of the episode. And the Doctor revealed in
'The Sensorites' (Hartnell, 1964) that he had been imprisoned
in the Tower by none other than King Henry VIII! If your trip
doesn't include a stopover in China, there is a display of
Chinese armour from the time of Genghis Khan. The Doctor
would have seen this on his travels with Marco Polo (Hartnell,
1964).

There are many other fascinating displays in the Tower such

as the Crown Jewels and the armouries. In the Toura-ment
Galleries notice the armour made especially for jousting 'The
King's Demons' (Davison, 1983). In fact, each tower within
the Tower has its own tragic history. While you're there, look
for the ravens on the lawns - legend says that if the ravens
leave the Tower, England will fall. Don't frighten the ravens.

You can take a guided tour, or buy a guide book and devise

your own. Allow enough time to see what you want to see -
there's a lot here. (Underground: Tower Hill - Circle, District
Lines).

Leaving the Tower, walk down Tower Bridge approach and

out on the Bridge. If you have a head for heights, try the walk
along the top of the towers! Looking across the Thames you
can see the London Dock area where 'Resurrection of the
Daleks' (Davison, 1984) was filmed. Over to the left of the

bridge is Wapping, as delightfully tacky today as it was in
'Talons of Weng-Chiang' (T. Baker, 1977). Also over here is
the area known as St Katherine's Dock - part of 'Carnival of
Monsters' (Pertwee, 1973) was filmed here. A Doctor Who
speciality store is located in Wapping, we suggest you call a)
for directions and b) to make sure they're still in business
before going down into the area.

Crossing Tower Bridge and turning right on Tooley Street,

you will come to a sight to warm the cockles of the Master's
hearts - the London Dungeon. A recreation of blood and gore,
it is not for the faint-hearted! If you manage to make it past
the London Dungeon you will see Southwark Cathedral and
London Bridge. Not the one of falling down fame: that  one's
been sold to an American and rebuilt in Arizona.
(Underground: London Bridge - Northern Line).

Tour Three
Take the Tube to Leicester Square (Northern, Piccadilly
Lines) and walk north on Charing Cross Road. This road is
peppered with bookstores, and rumour has it that Tom Baker
bought some of his dictionaries here. Stop and browse as you
please, and be sure to check out Foyles. Often called the
largest bookstore in the world, it has a marvellous bargain
basement. If your reading interests extend beyond Doctor
Who, you may need an extra bag just to carry the books home!
Foyles may be the largest, but it has very, very litde in the way
of  Doctor Who books. To find the main Doctor Who book
stockists in this area, turn right on Denmark Street, just before
St Giles Circus and go around  the block to Forbidden Planet
Two for a store that really specialises in DWmerchanise. If
you overindulge and your purchases are weighing you down,
there is an Underground nearby, Tottenham Court Road
(Central, Northern Lines).

Continue north through St Giles Circus as Charing Cross

becomes Tottenham Court Road and turn right on Great
Russell Street. Walk about two blocks down to the British

Museum. Although we know that you will want to visit
everything here, we'd like to call your attention to the exhibits
on Greece (' The Myth Makers - Hartnell, 1965), Rome ('The
Romans' - Hartnell, 1965), and Egypt {'Pyramids of Mars' - T.
Baker 1965). To see them, just turn left in the Entrance Hall.
(Unless things have changed, have your camera ready, you are
allowed to take photographs here!).

The first several rooms are devoted to Greek and Roman

history. To see something of Roman life, visit rooms fourteen
and fifteen on this floor and sixty-nine and seventy on the up-
per level. Take in the Egyptian display (on both the lower and
upper levels), including the Rosetta Stone. See what real
mummies look like in rooms sixty and sixty-one. Don't miss
the canopic jars that look amazingly like the ones Sutekh used
to place a barrier around Scarman's house and grounds.
Unfortunately, while there isn't a full-size pyramid here, you
can marvel at the statues in room twenty-five. The upper floor
has wonderful representations of the Middle Ages and the
Renaissance ('Masque of Mandragora' - T. Baker, 1976, "The
Massacre' - Hartnell, 1966, 'Reign of Terror'- Hartnell, 1964,
'The Crusades' - Hartnell, 1965). In room thirty on the ground
floor east, you will be able to see the Magna Carta {'The
King's Demons' - Davison, 1983). Prehistoric antiquities {'An
Unearthly Child' - Hartnell, 1963) can be found in the upper
level in rooms thirty-five to forty.

If you don't have a good guide book with you, you can buy

one at the bookstore in the front - along with some classy
souvenirs.

When you leave the Museum, walk back down Russell

Square to Tottenham Court Road and turn right. Walk north
on Tottenham Court Road to Goodge Street and turn left. Go
down Goodge Street to Whitfield Street and turn right there.
One block down at 1, Scala Street is Pollock's Toy Museum
and Shop. We don't know if the Celestial Toymaker ever
visited here, but it would certainly have delighted him as

much as it did us. (Underground: Goodge Street - Northern
Line).

On leaving the Toy Museum, continue north on Whitfield

Street to Howland Street and turn left. Continue to Cleveland
Street and turn right. You are at the Post Office Tower 'The
War Machine' (Hartnell, 1966). This is where our friends
found Professor Brett and WOTAN. You used to be able to go
up in the viewing tower and even eat in a restaurant there, but
that is no more. The tower with mast is 620 feet high and was
once the tallest building in Britain. Alas, that is no more
either. Such are the joys of modern technology. We wonder if
WOTAN would have approved . . .

Turn right on Maple Street and walk by the Post Office

Tower to Fitzroy Street and turn left. A block up the street you
will arrive at Fitzroy Square. The square is a paved pedestrian
precinct and is where the TARDIS materialised in 'The War
Machines'. It was begun in 1893 but not completed until forty
years later. Continue on Fitzroy Street to Euston Road and
turn left. (Underground: Great Portland Street - Circle,
Metropolitan Lines). Walk along Euston Road and turn left on
Park Crescent (Underground: Regent's Park - Bakerloo Line).

Turning off Park Crescent on Portland Place will enable you

to walk down to the BBC Broadcasting House just where
Portland' Place turns into Langham Place. This is the head-
quarters of the BBC, but not where Doctor Who is filmed. At
nearby All Souls Church the BBC Sunday morning service is
carried live. Langham Place becomes Regent Street as you
walk south. You can catch the Underground at Oxford Circus
(Central, Victoria, and Bakerloo Lines) or continue along
Regent Street to enjoy the shops. By cutting over on Great
Marlborough Street you can gape at the incredible tackiness of
Carnaby Street (yeah, yeah yeah!). Regent Street merges into
Piccadilly Circus - look for the famous statue of Eros.
(Underground: Piccadilly Circus - Bakerloo, Piccadilly Lines).

Staying on Park Crescent and going west to Marylebone

Road, you will come to Madame Tussaud's famous Wax

Museum. As of 1985 the fourth Doctor was still on display
here, but Meglos and several other models are in cold storage
at the Wookey Hole (see the next chapter). There is also a
planetarium and a laserium for your entertainment.
(Underground: Baker Street (no, we are not making this up) -
Circle, Metropolitan, Jubilee, and Bakerloo Lines).

Leave Madame Tussauds and continue on Marylebone Road

to Marylebone station where the 'virus' scenes for 'The
Silurians' (Pertwee, 1970) were filmed. (Underground:
Marylebone - Bakerloo Line).

Tour Four
Take the underground to Hammersmith (District, Piccadilly
Lines) and walk down Hammersmith Bridge Road to
Hammersmith Bridge. The bridge was used in 'The Dalek
Invasion of Earth'. In the area are the Hammersmith Swim-
ming Baths used as the 'bathroom' in 'The Invasion of Time'
(T. Baker, 1978). We don't recommend that you take the time
to go swimming; besides, we guarantee you won't run into
Leela. Go back to the Hammersmith stop.

Take the Underground to Kew Gardens (District Line). The

Doctor and Peri never made it 'The Mark of the Rani' (C.
Baker, 1985), but you can. When you get off the Under-
ground, walk down Lichfield Road to Victoria Gate.

The Gardens are the official British Botanical Gardens.

Besides the thousands of plants that grow here, (and some that
don't - Janis thorns in particular!) you might want to visit the
Kew Palace (also known as the Dutch House). King George
III stayed here when he was mad. He may have been mad
because his Queen, Charlotte, stayed in the Queen's Cottage
(although she died in the Dutch House), as did Queen
Victoria. You can also see the Chinese Pagoda and a gateway
that is a copy of a gate in the Nishi-Honganji temple in Kyoto,
Japan.

Tour Five
Take the Underground to White City (Central Line) and walk
south along Wood Lane. You will see a very large, modern
building on your right - it's curved like a question mark
without the period. This is the BBC Television Centre, and
Doctor Who does its studio work here (when it's doing studio
work, that is.) It's not open to the public; there are no guided
tours, this is a working studio! But there is, however, a very
interesting shop outside the Television Centre that sells BBC
related things, and it might be worth a visit to see what they've
got. Some videotapes are sold here, but before buying, check
to see that the format matches your country's standard!

Tour Six
Greenwich has been called the 'home of time' and the
pedestrian subway under the Thames is where parts of ' The
Web of Fear' were filmed. To get there take a river boat from
Westminster or Tower Bridge to Greenwich pier, or take the
train from Charing Cross, Waterloo or Cannon Street to Maize
Hill. You can take a bus, but it's an hour trip as opposed to ten
minutes by train. If you arrive at the train station, leave the
station and turn left on High Road. Keep on as High Road
becomes Church Street and you will arrive at Greenwich Pier.
If you've taken the boat, you're already at the Pier.

The entrance to the subway under the Thames is to the left

of the pier, behind the Tourist Information Booth. The subway
itself leads to the Isle of Dogs (don't look for K9) and you will
get a magnificent view of Greenwich. Admission is free to the
Royal Naval College (closed on Thursdays) and the National
Maritime Museum (closed on Mondays). While in town you
can also visit the Royal Observatory and stand with one foot
in an east longitude and one in a west. If the Doctor ever has
to get his times straightened out, this is where he'll go. 'In port'
at Greenwich and open for visitors are the Cutty Sark,
launched in 1869 and once the fastest clipper ship in the world

and the Gypsy Moth, used by Sir Francis Chichester in 1966-
67 to sail around the world.

Tour Seven
Hampstead Heath 'The Seeds of Death' (Troughton, 1969) is
well worth visiting on a balmy afternoon. On holiday
Mondays at Easter, Spring and Autumn, there are also daylong
fairs, so get up early to see all the fun. Take the tube to
Hampstead (Northern Line). Walk north on Heath Street to
Spaniards Road. The pond nearby is Whitestone Pond, and
you are now standing at 437 feet, London's highest ground.

On a clear day you can see all of London as well as the

Surrey Hills! Bring your model boat and sail it in the Leg O'
Mutton Pond, or watch the kite and model airplane flying.
There are open-air concerts in the summer at Kenwood House,
and nearby is the summerhouse where Dr Johnson (of
dictionary fame) stayed. There is a restaurant and cafeteria in
Kenwood House, or you can bring a picnic lunch. (Remember
- don't litterf). If you're really hardy, you can also go
swimming.

As you walk around the woods, just keep repeating, 'There

are no Ice Warriors, there are no Ice Warriors . . . ' When the
show did film here, Terrance Dicks lived nearby -a real case
of bringing your work home!

Tour Eight
It's time for another picnic, as you look at the Battersea Power
Station 'The Dalek Invasion of Earth'. This Power Station was
used as part of the Dalek's invasion force's complex and was
the site where Susan and her future husband, David Campbell,
blew up the Dalek's radio network.

Take the Underground - Circle or District Lines - to Sloane

Square Station and walk south on Chelsea Bridge Road. Cross
the Thames on Chelsea Bridge and you will be entering the
Battersea area. The Power Station is off to your left across the
railroad tracks. Walk down Park Gate Road to Battersea Park

for your picnic. You can also rent a boat and go boating on the
lake while you're in the park. You can probably get a better
view of the whole complex from the river on one of the many
boat trips offered. Ask your tour guide to point it out to you -
he'll think you're crazy, but Who cares?

What Else To Do

Theatre
The theatre in London is more expensive than it once was
(watch the year on any guide book to London you buy or
borrow!), but its prices do not begin to reach the astronomical
levels of New York City. The last time we were in London,
we were able to get good seats for £12 (about $16 at that
time). Similar seats in a New York Theatre would have cost at
least $50.

The really cheap seats (in the gallery or balcony) are usually

sold only on the actual day of the performance, and you have
to go to the theatre and queue up to get them. Since gallery
seats are not reserved, you then have to be back at the theatre
in good time to queue up again to get a good seat.

There's a discount ticket location in Leicester Square where

you can buy tickets for reserved seats the day of the
performance at half-price plus a nominal service charge.
Naturally, tickets for the big hits are not available here. If you
want to see one of these shows, buy your tickets through your
travel agent before coming over.

If you do go to the theatre, remember that the custom is to

eat a leisurely meal after the performance, but watch out: the
Underground closes at midnight!

Along with West End productions, London boasts of many

fringe productions (the equivalent of the American 'Off-
Broadway'). Well-done,, but sometimes truly weird, they can
be a memorable theatrical experience.

If you are going to the theatre, you can wear anything from

casual to dressy, as long as it's neat and clean.

Cinema
Movies, as we observed, are just as expensive in London as
anywhere else, especially on a first run. Unless it's something
really unique, we'd suggest that you can find something more
interesting to do in London than sit in a movie theatre eating
popcorn.

Nightlife
There are marvellous music halls (' The Talons of Weng-
Chiang') and other variety shows in London. Many of the
music halls offer you a chance to have an all-inclusive evening
with dinner and entertainment. Not truly a music hall, but
'variety entertainment', are the 'medieval banquets'. There are a
number of these running at any time, and going to one can
make for an interesting evening. Be aware, though, that if you
are really knowledgeable about the Middle'" Ages - or are
active in the Society For Creative Anachronism - you will be
disappointed. (At least we were the last several times we
attended a 'medieval' banquet.) But if you're not too picky and
don't really mind using eating utensils that did not exist at the
time, you're probably in for a treat.

There are nightclubs in London, but we confess that we've

never been to one. Most are erstwhile 'clubs' and you actually
become a member of the 'club' for the evening. Most
nightclubs offer a dinner (expensive), a show (sometimes very
risque") and dancing until very late. We've always had other
things we wanted to do in an evening - and usually something
scheduled early the next morning to get up for.

There are, of course, discos throughout London. The number

varies, as they tend to be a bit ephemeral. Check out what's
popular before you go. If you're lucky, you might catch a
performing group on their way up!

Some of the 'clubs' and discos have unique dress codes. If

you're not wearing what they feel is 'in' you won't be admitted.
Check before going.

Who's Appearing Where
Obviously all of the foregoing information can be found in
almost any regular guidebook. Why then should Doctor Who
fans be interested. Because over the years many fine actors
and actresses who have appeared in the show left to do other
things. Those 'other things' include appearing in various shows
in London and in theatres and variety shows in other parts of
Britain. Now we're not suggesting that the whole purpose of
your trip to Britain was to see one of your 'favourites' perform,
but if they are, you certainly wouldn't want to miss them!

This is where you put on your deerstalker hat and put aside

your violin. How do you find out who (maybe he is) appearing
where? One way is to join the British Doctor Who
Appreciation Society. In-their monthly newsletter, they try to
keep their members aware of what's going on in the careers of
DWactors and actresses.

If one or more persons really interest you, most likely

there's a fan club for that special someone. One of the
purposes of a fan club is to keep its members informed about
what its 'special someone' is doing. You might consider
joining - or at least writing to the club to find out what they
know.

Yet another source, after you arrive, is to get a copy of

What's On and Where To Go, Time Out or a copy of the
Standard at a newstand. You'll have to spend some time
poring through the listings, but it could prove very
worthwhile.

If you do attend the performance of someone you admire, it

is quite permissible to send flowers or chocolates or
champagne (depending on your budget) to the admiree. You
may, of course, also attach a note explaining who you are and
why you are attending this show in particular. Do not expect
that this will guarantee you a meeting with the admiree, nor
that you will receive an acknowledgement. Nevertheless,
British actors and actresses have been known to be most kind
to people who have travelled distances and have shown some

interest in their career beyond Doctor Who. Just don't count on
it!

Where to Eat
There are probably more restaurants per square inch in
London than in almost any other city in the world - certainly
there are more restaurants of different kinds!

Suggestion: take whatever books you've bought (or

borrowed from your library) and read through the restaurant
section. If there is something that particularly appeals to you,
make a note of it. If you know where you'll be staying in
London, find out what restaurants are close by and what their
prices are.

We find that the old tales about the quality of British

cooking are simply that - old tales. When we ate in British
restaurants, we found the food good and well prepared. We
can't say that it was awfully exciting. For exciting food, even
on a budget, try an ethnic restaurant. They're common in
almost every town and on almost every block in London.

For instance, try some Indian food! The waiters will be glad

to explain the menu, and the food is filling and very
inexpensive. Be warned, though, Indian 'hot' would fuel a Thai
rocketship. You want exciting, not explosive. Start out with
'mild'. Chinese restaurants are more prolific than tribbles and
great on the tummy and the budget. There are also African,
American, Greek, Hungarian, Indonesian, Italian, Japanese,
Jewish, Pakistani, Russian, Thai, Turkish (burp), and probably
ten or twenty we've missed. Live a little! Any of it will be
better than the sixth Doctor's cooking, and far more nutritious
than the fourth Doctor's jelly babies.

While you're gallivanting around town, you might also want

to try a lunch or two at a pub. Get there early, and you'll find
that you can have a good lunch for less than £2! Pubs do have
limited hours though. They're usually open from 11-3 and
5.30-11.00 pm Monday through Saturday and noon-2 and 7-
10.30 on Sunday. No children are allowed in a pub.

For snacks, quick lunches, picnic supplies and pick-me-ups,

there are small grocery stores all over London. If you're in Bed
and Breakfast accommodation, it's no problem if you nibble in
your room - as long as you are neat and put things away. Most
small hotels and B&B places will provide you with your own
kettle for boiling water and even an initial supply of tea and
coffee. If it's a nice day, buy bread and cheese and picnic in
the park!

Emergencies
Earlier in the book we discussed how to use the telephone. In
the appendix are some important numbers that we hope you
don't have to call. If it is a real emergency, dial 999 to get the
police.

Shopping the Doctor Who Way

Surprisingly, it is almost as difficult to find DW merchandise
in Britain as it is in America (unless you go to an American
Convention). Somehow, one expects to find DW magazines
and books at every newstand - Ha!. It's all very discouraging.

For the last several years however, there has been one

certain source for DW books for fans going to England for the
last several years. The store is called Forbidden Planet Two.
(The first Forbidden Planet is on Denmark Street, off Charing
Cross Road. The one you want is around the corner and to the
left on St Giles.) For directions, see Tour Three. There are also
some bookstores on Charing Cross Road that carry a few D
Wbooks and magazines.

As of this writing, there is a DW speciality store in

Wapping, across from the Tower Bridge. It hadn't opened
when we were there last, but you might want to check it out.
The address is: Wapping Wall, Wapping, A3 Metropolitan
Wharf (Roadside Warehouse), London El. The phone is 481-
0826. Call before you go to make sure they're still there.

If you have time, browse through some of the street markets

- you could just happen upon that fourth Doctor's floppy hat or

that fifth Doctor's cricket sweater. Velvet coats like that worn
by the third Doctor have also been seen in the stalls, and you
might even find baggy pants to dress up just like the second
Doctor. Try Portobello Road Market (tube to Ladbroke Grove
Station - Metropolitan Line, then walk east, following the
signs). It's open Monday to Saturday, but the best time to go is
on a Saturday morning. Another likely source is Petticoat
Lane (Tube to Liverpool Street Station -Metropolitan, Circle
and Central Lines, starts on the Bishops-gate side) which is
open only on Sunday mornings, so get there before noon!

Other shopping streets you might like to wander down are

Carnaby Street, Wl (for really tacky stuff - and some
interesting bargains too); King's Road, Chelsea; and Harrods
on Knightbridge. Oxford and Regent Streets all have some
interesting, affordable items as well as those that beggar the
purse. Don't assume that British sizes are equivalent to your
own. Before buying anything, try it on! Most stores are open
from 9.30 am to 5.30/6.00 pm. Some areas have 'late nights'.
Stores are not generally open on Sunday.

There is one certain fact. There is always something to do in

London! Unless your 'vacation' is several months long, you'll
need to come back to see it all, and you haven't even started
visiting the places in the rest of the book!

It's Only a Short Trip

Doctor Who
DW doesn't do all its filming in the studio - they do get a small
travel budget - and they tend to use London and the
surrounding countryside. All these trips can be done in a
single day using London as a base. If you decide to get even
more adventurous, we've got even more suggestions at the end
of the chapter.

Acton, North London
'Inferno' (Pertwee, 1970): The Rehearsal Hall in Acton's Old
Oak Road was used for part of the filming of this episode.

This was Nick Courtney's favourite episode - not because of

the location but because of his dual role as the Brigadier and
as the Brigade Leader in the alternative Earth. Acton can be
reached by taking the Underground (Central Line) to the East
Acton station. Leave the station, go north on Fitzneal Street to
Old Oak Common Lane. Turn onto Old Oak Common Lane
and walk south, crossing the major intersection at Westway.
Just past the intersection, Old Oak Common Lane becomes
Old Oak Road.

Aldbourne, Wiltshire
'The Daemons' (Pertwee, 1971): All the outdoor scenes were
located in this village, considered to be one of the prettiest in

Wiltshire. It was chosen not only for its church, pub, and
green but because there actually are prehistoric barrows,
(called the Devil's Hump in the story), within, an easy walking
mile of the village.

In the show, Aldbourne was called Devil's End and the pub,

where a great deal of the action takes place, was The Cloven
Hoof. In reality, the pub is The Blue Boar but the original DW
Cloven Hoof sign still hangs inside in a place of honour.
Publicans Ray and Sylvia are warm and friendly and make
visitors feel really welcome. Ray's a great storyteller. Get him
to tell you about his dogs' abortive film career and the real
story behind the opening lines of the first episode.

Only the outside of the twelfth-century church was used.

There never was a cave or crypt below it, nor a coven of Devil
worshippers. However, there is a rooster weathervane on top,
just like in the story! We couldn't see if it bore the mark from
Benton's bullseye but you're welcome to check it out for
yourself. Although the inside of the church was never used,
the BBC took pictures looking out to match the real scenery
when the door was 'open'. The church does justifiably boast of
a superbly executed alabaster tomb of a fifteenth-century
priest.

The village still looks as it did when the Doctor, Jo, and

Miss Hawthorne joined in the May Day celebration on the
green. You'll have no trouble recognising it. Nor will you have
any trouble coaxing the residents to talk about the time they
had the Doctor, Jo, Mike Yates, Benton and the Master
filming right before their eyes. Perhaps the treatment the cast
received from the villagers was extra-special for almost all of
them refer to 'The Daemons' as their very favourite on-
location show. (How about the in-joke in the show when the
local squire of Devil's End is referred to as Squire Ald-
bourne?)

The village is best reached by car. Take the train from

London's Paddington Station to Swindon where a car rental
office is available. (See the section on clustering at the end of

this chapter.) Drive south-east on the A345 about three miles
to the B4192 and continue south across the Marlborough

Downs to the village. Drive right through the town to the

southern edge and you'll find what you're looking for.

Avebury, Wiltshire
Avebury is the site of one of the world's most famous circles
of standing stones. Unlike Stonehenge, it sprawls over some
twenty-eight acres in the Wiltshire countryside, both
surrounding and going through the town of Avebury itself.
About 100 of the giant stones still stand, and as you look
around you might even believe that some of them are the Ogri
from 'The Stones of Blood'. The town, the road, and the cow
pasture all run right through the circle, and you can walk
around and touch the stones.

As you drive into the town you'll see a small, plain sign

saying Avebury, and a giant stone leaning over it and the
roadway. You're already in the circle. There is little sense of
menace here. Just don't try to prevent a cow from using a
stone as a scratching post. They belong here; you're a visitor.

There's a free carpark and signs clearly explaining where

things are located. Visit the Great Barn for tourist information,
souvenirs, and a look at life styles in the history of Wiltshire.
Stop by Avebury Manor and the Alexander Keiller Museum.
There are lots of shops and the atmosphere is friendly.

The best way to get to Avebury is by car, although there is

bus service from Bath or Devizes (infrequent). If you're going
on your own, take the train into Swindon from London's
Paddington Station. There's a car hire across the street from
the station. Drive south on the A361. Swindon is a good
central location for many DW spots; see clustering at the end
of this chapter.

Bagley Woods, Oxfordshire
'The Android Invasion' (T. Baker, 1975): Some of the wood
scenes were filmed in a wooded area between Hinksey Hill
and the A34 on the southern outskirts of Oxford. The river
scenes used the area around Radley, a small village south of
Oxford, just east of Abdingdon. Don't swallow any of the river
water here! Tom Baker had to be taken to the hospital to have
his stomach pumped for inadvertently swallowing the stagnant
stuff while filming his 'water escape' from the androids.

Because there's a lot of ground covered in these locations,

it's best to use a car. Swindon is again a good central point.
Driving from the city, go east to County Road to the A420.
Take this road and drive about twenty miles north-east to the
A415 (at Kingston Bagpuize) directly into Abdington. Go
through the city proper and follow the signs to Radley and the
river. Continue north on the A34 to Oxford to get to Bagley
Woods.

Barnet By-Pass, Buckinghamshire
'Logopolis' (T. Baker, 1981): This was the site of the last
Police Box in regular use in England. It was supposed to
appear in 'Logopolis' but when the DW production crew got to
the by-pass they found the box had been retired from service
and hauled away just days before. (The one shown was a
studio copy.) Eventually the production team used a similar
lay-by near Uxbridge, complete with a fake Barnet Council
signpost!

The By-Pass is north of London's Hampstead Heath. We

doubt if you can reach it except by car and we strongly advise
against doing any driving in London. However, if you must
see it, there's a tube station in High Barnet (Metropolitan
Line). A devoted fan could go by Tube, hire a taxi, and beg
the driver to seek out the historic By-Pass. Just don't credit us
with such a crazy idea. And be careful of any strange blue
boxes you might find!

Barnsley, Gloucestershire
'K9 and Company' (Lis Sladen, 1982): There were three small
villages in the Cotswolds used as locations for this spin-off of
Doctor Who produced as a Christmas special. This charming
village on a tiny tributary of the River Colne was one.

Most stone houses here date from the 1700s and at the top of

the main village street at one end of the village is a stone stile.
Over it, down a tree lined walk, can be found Barnsley Park
House, a former rectory. Its gardens have a Gothic
Summerhouse and Adam temple. Occasionally the house and
grounds are open to the public.

You can get drinks and snacks at the Village Pub in the

centre of the village, but don't expect anything else. It's
apparently the sole commercial enterprise in the whole
village! A far cry from the bustling country life portrayed in
K9 and Company.

The whole Cotswold area is renowned for its picturesque

cottages, beautiful hills, and historic places (the source of the
Thames is considered to be a spring only 7

A miles southwest

of here outside the village of Caates) and not for its residents'
proclivity for witchcraft! Use Swindon as your starting point
and rent a car. Barnsley is about fifteen miles north-west of
Swindon via the A419 north to Cirencester, then the A433
north-east to Barnsley.

Battle (of Hastings), Sussex
'The Time Meddler' (Hartnell, 1965): This is the most famous
battlefield in the world - where the events of one day (with or
without the Meddling Monk) changed the history of a nation.
While the battle lasted an entire day, it shouldn't take you that
long to tour the battlefield located in the small town of Battle
six miles north-west of Hastings. Even at our advanced years,
we managed to lope around it in less than two hours. Of
course, we have to look at our pictures to remember what we
saw, but. . .

Trains to Battle depart from London's Charing Cross Station

at hourly intervals and take about ninety minutes. Coaches
depart from Victoria Coach Station once a day during the
summer months and take about two and a half hours.

If you take the train, come out of the station and turn left on

Station Road then right at Lower Lake. Follow Lower Lake to
Upper Lake and you will arrive at Batde Abbey. Enter the
grounds to the right of the Abbey gatehouse. The walk around
the batdefield is one mile. Across from the gatehouse is the
museum - well worth a visit. There's a Tourist Information
Centre at 88, High Street and a car park by Battle Abbey. If
you can't get into the car park (it's small and you must pay),
don't worry: there are several free car parks throughout the
city.

Battle Abbey was built by William the Conqueror to

commemorate his victory over King Harold. What remains of
the eleventh-century abbey is impressive, but watch out for the
deep holes flush with and hidden in the grass. These are the
remains of the Abbey's crypts. We don't think they're old traps
left by the Monk, but there are no warning signs posted of the
imminent disappearance of solid footing! You can, however,
recognise the area by the three palm trees growing in the
vicinity. (These palm trees don't seem to be the inspiration for
producer John Nathan-Turner's Hawaiian shirt complex, but
Who knows.)

Birmingham Pebble Mill Studios, Birmingham
'Horror of Fang Rock' (T. Baker, 1977): This was the first
time DW had ever filmed inside a Regional Studio outside
London. Unfortunately, the lighthouse exterior shots were all
done using a four foot high plastic styrofoam model in the
Studios. There was no 'real' lighthouse.

Birmingham can be reached by train from London's Euston

Station in 1 hour 35 minutes arriving at New Street Station.
The city is quite a big place and you may want to check with
the Travel Centre in the station's main hall (on the extreme

right as you leave the station platforms) before doing anything
else. Tourist Information is at 110, Colmore Row, near
Victoria Square. There's lots of shopping here and a major
exhibition centre.

Bisley, Gloucestershire
'K9 and Company' (Lis Sladen, 1982): This is another of the
Cotswold villages used in the special. Set high on a hill, it's
called Bisley-God-Help-Us by the locals because of its brisk
winter wind. Again, there are no covens to contend with, but
the local Bear Inn has two secret passages and a priest's hole
to balance out your disappointment. At the George Inn there is
(or was last we knew) a trumpet-shaped tube of glass two feet
long with a swollen bulb bottom - an authentic 'yard of beer'.
If you're game, you can try to down it, but beware - it holds
over a quart of the foamy brew! On second thoughts, maybe
you'd better stick to ginger beer.

Travel to Bisley by car via the A419 out of the train station

at Swindon. At Cirencester, bear left (west) and continue on
the A419. At Chalford, turn north and follow the signs to
Bisley (about two miles).

Blackhurst House, Royal Tunbridge Wells
'Black Orchid' (Davison, 1983): Better known as Lord
Cranleigh's estate, this stately home is actually located in the
small village of Withyham about seven miles south-west of
there. The owners weren't keen on letting it be used, fearing it
would become identified and invaded by DW fans, so do not
go up to the door and ask for a tour. This is a private home.
There really is a cricket ground with a pavilion, a terrace
where Nyssa and Tegan wowed them with their dancing, and
(naturally) the roof from which poor old George fell to his
death. Unlike the Doctor, you will find there is no train station
at 'Cranleigh Halt' and no chauffeur waiting your arrival.
Better luck next time.

This doesn't mean the city of Royal Tunbridge Wells is

without  DW  connections. As well as being one of the most
elegant cities in the country, it's also the site of the 1983
performance of the Cinderella  pantomime which was written
and produced by John Nathan-Turner and starred Peter
Davison as Buttons and Anthony Ainley (the Master) as Baron
Hardup. It  also boasts an eighteenth-century shopping
walk known as the Pantiles which is traffic-free, paved, lined
with fascinating shops, and serenades its visitors with band
concerts on summer evenings. What more could you ask?

Royal Tunbridge Wells can be reached by train but there is

no car hire available. Trains leave from Charing Cross Station
in London hourly and take about one hour to reach the city.
Green Line Coaches leave every two hours from Buckingham
Palace Road (by Victoria Train Station) and take about 214
hours. If you happen to be driving in the area, take the A21
north out of Hastings (or the A2100 north out of Batde to the
A21) to Royal Tunbridge Wells. Tourist Information is
located in the Town Hall.

To reach Withyham from Royal Tunbridge Wells, take the

A264 east to the B2188, turn south and take the B2110 into
the village. You could hire a taxi to go to Withyham, but if
you want to see the Harrison Climbing Rocks Venue at
Groomsbridge (where some of the 'Castrovalvo' scenes were
shot and which is on the way to Withyham) it could get pretty
costly. We suggest driving yourself. Groomsbridge is on the
B2188 just before you reach Withyham.

Black Park near Iver Heath, Berkshire
'Full Circle' (T. Baker, 1980): Scenes of the Marshmen
emerging from the water were shot near the edge of the lake.
'State of Decay' (T. Baker, 1980): The logging road, on the far
side of the lake, has a lot to recommend it for some of the
wood scenes.

'Castrovalva' (Davison, 1983): The scenes of the TARDIS

landing and the treks through the woods were all filmed here.

'The Visitation' (Davison, 1983): This episode was filmed

here and around Heathrow. This location was preferred by the
cast and crew as they did not have to worry about the noise
from the airplanes overhead.

This very large park is a wonderful spot all by itself, even

without being a DW location favourite. It isn't readily
accessible by public transport; you will need a car. Don't drive
in London proper, take the train from Paddington Station to
Reading and hire a car in Reading.

Picnicking, hiking, fishing, swimming, boating, possibly

even horseback riding - all can be enjoyed here. Even if you
can't find the exact spots where each show was filmed, you'll
have a wonderful time looking. The same couldn't always be
said of Matthew Waterhouse (Adric). He didn't always find
filming in the beauty of Black Park such a pleasure after
partying enthusiastically but not too wisely the night before.

To reach the park, take the A4 east out of Reading through

Slough to the A412. Go north and watch for the signs
directing you to Black Park.

Blackpool, Lancashire
This used to be the home of the main Doctor Who Exhibition,
housed at 111, Central Promenade on the busy Golden Mile in
the shadow of the famous Blackpool Tower. There are other
amusement-type attractions in Blackpool as well - or so we've
been told. You can get there by train. Check with Tourist
Information in London or on arriving in Blackpool.

At the end of 'Revelation of theDaleks' (C. Baker, 1985), the

Doctor was supposed to say that he was taking Peri to Black-
pool for a 'quiet' vacation (we all know what the Doctor's
'quiet' vacations turn out to be, don't we?) but it seems he was
cut off in mid-breath by Michael Grade. Pity. While we were
in England we kept saying 'We should go visit Blackpool,' but
Jean insisted we visit another quarry. Laurie thinks she was
right.

Bodiam Castle, Sussex
'The King's Demons' (Davison, 1983): Although used in 'The
King's Demons', Bodiam also represents the kind of castle
Sarah Jane found herself in the ' The Time Warrior'.

Many consider Bodiam to be the most romantic ruined

castle in England. It is certainly absolutely breathtaking early
in the morning as the mist rises. It almost seems to float on the
water lapping its walls.

Bodiam must be reached by car or taxi out of either Hastings

or Battle. From Hastings, take the A21 north to the A229. Go
north to the B2089 and turn east to Cripp's Corner. Turn north
on the B2165 there. At Staple Cross, leave the B2165 (the
road has no number designation) and continue north,
following the signs to the castle. It's easy to reach, as it's only
twelve miles from Hastings, seven miles from Battle, and
fifteen from Royal Tunbridge Wells.

The castle is open daily April to October (including Sundays

and Bank Holidays) and Monday through Saturday in the
Winter (excepting December 25-28). The small entrance fee is
quite reasonable and there's a large carpark, a cafe, (open in
the summer), souvenir shop and restroom facilities. In the
small village nearby (the dwellings 'huddled like ducklings
around their mother') are another restaurant and a smattering
of B&Bs.

We felt this was one of the highlights of our latest trip. If

you're at all interested in castles (and who isn't!) don't miss it.
Although the inside is little more than a shell, there is an
audio-visual presentation that gives a vivid look at what Sarah
must have encountered in fourteenth-century castle life. There
are no restrictions inside the castle proper and you can explore
to your heart's content. In fact, you can even climb up one of
the towers to the upper battlements. (Caution: the steps are
very steep, very narrow, and very numerous.) The view,
however, is well worth the effort.

There is a fairly long and occasionally steep walk from the

car park to the castle. For this reason (and the many rough

places in the interior), sensible shoes are a must. To get inside,
you cross over a bridge that leads first to a small 'island'
before entering the castle. If at all possible, bring bread or
crisps with you as there are ducks and carp (real monsters!) in
the moat. Both expect a visitor to slip them a little something
and if you thought the Skarasen was grumpy when it was
hungry, you haven't seen what a batch of irritated ducks or
disappointed carp are capable of!

Bognor Regis, Sussex
'Terror of the Zygons' (T. Baker, 1975): The area around the
city (the Downs) substituted for Scodand and Loch Ness but in
our opinion, it's definitely not as good as the real thing. Not
that it isn't beautiful, it just isn't Scodand!

Bognor Regis can be reached by train, but there is no car

hire. If you don't want to hire a taxi, it's best to take the train to
Brighton and rent a car there. The drive along the coast out of
Brighton and along the A259 is well worth it. Follow the road
right into the city.

Brighton, Sussex
'The War Games' (Troughton, 1969): The Brighton rubbish tip
was used for the scenes as it had just been used for the filming
of Oh, What a Lovely War! Consequently, all the trenches,
pits, and wires were already set up and ready to go for the DW
crews. Waste not, want not. 'Horror of Fang Rock' (T. Baker,
1977): The Doctor was attempting to take Leela to the opening
of the Royal Pavilion in 1822 when he landed in the fog.
When he realised he'd missed Brighton, he thought it might be
Worthing as it didn't seem to be Hove. Great sense of place
and direction, right?

'The Leisure Hive' (T. Baker, 1980): Filming was done on

the beach (off King's Road) to the right of both the West and
the Palace (or Amusement) Pier as you look toward the ocean.
This was where K9 took his opening 'stroll', only he had to be
pulled across the stones on a wire.

The Doctor told Romana he was (still) trying to make the

opening of the Royal Pavilion, a kind of weird palatial home-
away-from-palace commissioned by the Prince of Wales.
We're not sure which opening he was talking about as there's
been more than one. The first was in 1822 when the Pavilion
was originally finished after starting out life as a rented
'superior farmhouse'. The Prince of Wales (later to become
Prince Regent and then King George IV) had 'discovered'
Brighton and the house in 1783. What he ended up with is as
far from a farmhouse as K9 is from a cuddly puppy. The
Pavilion has been called many things (some even printable)
but our favourite is 'a square box topped by a Norfolk turnip
with four onions'. Well, couple that description with an
interior that could have been designed by Weng-Chiang after a
particularly wild opium dream and you know what to expect.
Mind-boggling barely begins to cover it. In fact, it's just about
on par with the sixth Doctor's taste in clothes!

The next opening came when the Pavilion was refurbished

and re-opened (after falling into Royal disfavour and disrepair
after George's death) at a public ball in January 1851. This
could have been what the Doctor was attempting to attend. It
would certainly account for the bleakness of the weather and
why he was huddled under his scarf.

The next opening (after fairly serious fire damage in 1975)

is scheduled for sometime in 1986. Maybe this time the
Doctor will finally get his dates and the TARDIS circuits
working simultaneously and arrive on time!

Brighton is only fifty-five minutes away from London's

Victoria Station and trains leave just about every hour all day
long. The return schedules are almost as generous. Coaches
leave Victoria Coach Station four times a day and take about 1
hour 45 minutes for the trip.

You don't need a car in Brighton, the walk from the train

station to the Royal Pavilion and the beach (two blocks
beyond) is not long. Leave the station and take Queens Road
to Church Street. Turn left onto Church Street. You will come

upon the Art Gallery and the Museum on the right and just
around the corner is the Royal Pavilion (you can't miss it).
Tourist Information is south of the Pavilion at 54, Old Steine
Road. Continue south (about another block) and you'll come to
the beach and the piers.

There are many interesting shops in the area (including

some nifty second-hand clothing stores and bookstores by the
train station), a plethora of pubs, and numerous restaurants.
One way to explore the beach is by Volk's Railway - an open
train operation since 1883 on electricity. It runs along the edge
of the beach from Palace Pier to the Marina, east to Black
Rock about a mile away, from Easter to the end of September.
Don't forget to try the Brighton Rock Candy but be sure your
dental insurance is up to date.

Bristol (Oldbury Nuclear Power Station), Avon
'The Hand ofFear'(T. Baker, 1976): The power station where
Sarah and the Doctor met Eldrad appears to be located in the
Vale of Berkeley about fifteen miles slightly north-east of
Bristol, off the B4061. It's unlikely if the management would
appreciate an influx of fans demanding tours of the plant. The
area is accessible only by car but you can take the train to
Bristol from London's Paddington Station and rent a car or
taxi there and start hunting. Take our word for it, quarries are
much more interesting and positively welcome visitors.

Cambridge, Cambridgeshire
'Shada' (T. Baker, 1980): Filming was mostly around
Emmanuel College (St Cedds in the script) and the River
Cam. The footage featuring the fourth Doctor and Romana in
'The Five Doctors' was taken from this lost episode. The
punting scene was shot along the Cam by the Trinity College
Bridge.

Although Cambridge is easily accessible by train (1 hour, 10

minutes from London's Liverpool Street Station), the rail
station is about two miles from the centre of town. There is,

however, a local bus stop right across the street where you can
catch a bus into Market Street and the city centre. The Tourist
Information Centre is located next to a shopping mall near
King's College on Wheeler Street.

You don't want (or need) a car to get around in Cambridge.

Instead, use the bus, a taxi, your feet, or rent a bike (for
approximately £2 per day with a £20 deposit). After all, the
finish of 'Shada' was to have been a wild bicycle ride through
the streets by the fourth Doctor pursued by a flying globe. You
won't have to outrun the villain Skagra's flying sphere, but it
does give you a great chance to sightsee without a lot of work.

If you visit during the summer season, you may be tempted

to rent a punt a la the fourth Doctor. (The typical rental is
about £3 per hour with a deposit of £15, refunded if you don't
wreck the boat.) Caution: Punts look easy enough to
manoeuvre - so does the TARDIS - but there is a definite
knack to operating them. They can tip, ram other boats, spin,
or leave you literally hung up on the guiding pole (stuck like
glue in the mud) while your punt glides merrily on down the
Cam. (All of which seems to have happened to Tom Baker - a
very dedicated landlubber.) If you're rash enough to try it, take
a change of clothes, leave them with a friend on dry land, and
wear a life jacket. Bon voyage!

Take heed of the mad ducks of Cambridge. If you go

anywhere near the Cam (and you must, you must!), take a bag
of crisps. The ducks charge the river banks whenever a visitor
looms into sight and they've been known to 'mug' visitors
who've been foolish enough to deny them sustenance.

After your close encounter with a punt (or the ducks), you

might feel in need of sustenance. Try 'afternoon tea' in the
University Arms Hotel on Regent Street. Catch the 181 bus
outside the Hotel to get back to the train station.

Canterbury, Kent
'Evil of the Daleks' (Troughton, 1967): A sprawling Victorian
mansion just outside the -city was the home of scientist
Theodore Maxtible, but most American fans would associate
the town with Tom Baker's appearance in The Canterbury
Tales.

The train stations are located about a fifteen minute walk

away from the Cathedral (in different directions). If you leave
London from Charing Cross or Waterloo, you'll arrive at the
West Station; the East Station is served by Victoria. (Either
trip takes about 1 hour, 25 minutes.) The train from Victoria
divides at Faversham - be sure you're on the right part! (Ask
the guard.) Coaches leave daily from Victoria Coach Station
and take two hours to reach Canterbury.

Most museums are closed on Sundays and the shops have an

early closing on Thursdays, so plan accordingly. The Tourist
Information Centre is at 22, St Peter's Street which is an
extension of High Street which is an extension of St George's
Street. Understand? Jean thinks you can really extend yourself
walking around this town.

Canterbury Cathedral is, of course, world famous. To walk

the steps, where pilgrims have walked since 1070, is quite an
experience. Thomas a Becket was murdered by royal request
in the church in 1170. If you're the morbid type, you can stand
on the very spot where he was killed!

While you're here, you might want to see what's playing at

the Marlowe Theatre - Tom Baker appeared there in She
Stoops to Conquer in 1984.

Denham, Buckinghamshire
'The Five Doctors' (1983): UNIT HQ, was a private house in
Denham, an unusually attractive village situated on the
Misbourne, but we have no idea where or which. It's possible
that Denham Place, a Great House open to the public was
used. If it wasn't, the owners aren't in the tourist trade and
would not welcome visitors.

Denham has no train station so it's best reached by car.

Catch the train from Paddington Station to Reading and rent a
car there. Take the A4 north-west to Slough, get on the A412
there, and continue north past Black Park at Iver Heath into
Denham.

Dover Castle, Dover
'The Mind of Evil' (Pertwee, 1971): The Castle doubled for
Stangmoor Prison and the UNIT men who stormed it with
ropes and grappling hooks were, thanks to the Ministry of
Defence, real British Marines. This wonderfully preserved
twelfth-century castle has the oldest structure in England in its
interior - a Roman pharos  or lighthouse (shades of
'Logopolis'!)  built in 50 AD. It was last used in the Second
World War when some new earthworks and gun placements
were built. Today these  are the only areas at the castle roped
off as being dangerous. They just don't make 'em like they
used to.

The Castle is reached from the car park by a narrow, black-

topped 'road'. It is quite steep and persons in wheelchairs may
have difficulty in reaching the interior. There is a parking area
just inside Colton Tower (the rampart at the head of the road)
and it's possible that permission for handicapped persons to
park in the esplanade may be given. The Castle is open daily
except on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day, Boxing Day,
New Year's Day, and May Day. It's only open for 4 J4 hours
on Sundays in summer and for two hours on Sundays in
winter so check with the Tourist Information Bureau (next
door to the Holiday Inn on Townwall Street) for exact times.

Dover can be reached by train (either direct from London's

Charing Cross, 1 hour, 30 minutes or with a stopover in
Canterbury). Coaches from Victoria Coach Station take under
three hours.

Leaving Priory (train) Station, walk down St Martin's Hill

(left as you leave the station) to Military Road. Continue
straight down the road (it will regenerate into Pencester Street)

to the bus station. You can then catch a bus to the castle. After
you leave the castle, you can walk back into the town - it's all
downhill from there!

A fun side trip would be to take the Hovercraft ('Planet of

Spiders') for a quick trip - 35 minutes - across the Channel to
France. (Don't forget your passport!) There's a free bus service
between Dover Priory Station and the Hoverport at Dover's
western docks. This is also a good jumping off spot for car
rental to visit a number of other spots.

Dungeness, Kent
'Claws of Axos' (Pertwee, 1971): Filming took place on the
beach of Dungeness in freak weather: one day it was sunny,
the next it rained, and the third it snowed! Script Editor
Terrance Dicks had to add dialogue blaming the phenomenon
on the landing of the Axon space ship. A nuclear power
station is located within half a mile of the beach and was used
in some scenes. There's even a lighthouse similar to the one
supposedly used in 'Horror of Fang Rock' that apparently can
be visited by appointment. Don't plan on going for a swim,
there are strong currents off the beach that make such
excursions extremely hazardous.

The beach - consisting of small rounded, smooth pebbles -is

incredibly noisy to walk on. (You'd never be able to sneak up
on anyone, that's for sure!) How the sound man ever managed
to record any conversation is beyond us. Not only that, you
tend to sink into it as you walk. Must have been a real joy for
the actors portraying the Axons to try and hit their mark and
say their lines under such conditions.

The area is accessible primarily by car, and the car hire in

Dover seems most convenient. From Dover, Take the A20 to
Folkestone, then the A259 south-east to New Romney, take
the turn-off to Littlestone-on-Sea and follow the signs south to
Dungeness. Go back the same way, as the road dead-ends at
the beach, but, if you're travelling on to Hastings, bear left at

Lydd-on-Sea to the town of Lydd and follow the B2075 to
Rye. From there, take the A259 to Hastings.

There is a railway - the Romney, Hythe and Dymchurch

Railway - which is a narrow gauge train operating in the
summer between Hythe (just south of Folkestone) and the
beach at Dungeness. Known as the world's smallest public
railway, it operates by steam traction. For information on
times, fares, etc, write to the Romney, Hythe and Dymchurch
Light Railway Company at New Romney, Kent.

Ealing Studio, Ealing, West London
'The Dalek Invasion ofEarth '(Hartnell, 1964): Part of the
chase sequence was shot here.

'The Web Planet' (Hartnell, 1965): Sets of the Zarbi's planet

were built here.

'The Underwater Menace' (Troughton, 1967): The studio

water tank was used extensively, but does not exist any more.
'Planet of Evil' (T. Baker, 1975): The jungle set on Zeta Minor
was built here.

'Creature From the Pit' (T. Baker, 1979): The sets of the

planet Chloris were built here. ,

'Snakedance' (Davison, 1982): The studios were used for the

live snake scene.

'Terminus' (Davison, 1983): Many of the sets were

assembled and used here.

'The Visitation' (Davison, 1982): The set of seventeenth-

century London was built here.

The above stories were filmed at the BBC Studios in West

London, a working studio. Tours, visitors, and/or fans are not
encouraged. If you must find it, try taking the tube (Central
Line) to Ealing Broadway and ask the locals. Stopping in a
pub around lunchtime might be your best bet.

Ealing Town, West London
'SpearheadFrom Space' (Pertwee, 1970): Ealing Broadway
and the streets around here were used to film the scenes of the

store dummies coming to life and shooting the innocent
passers-by. The area has changed a great deal and is mostly
unrecognisable. If you're insatiable, take the Central Line to
Ealing Broadway, and wander.

East Hagbourne, Oxfordshire
'The Android Invasion' (T. Baker, 1975): This small village

was the model for Devesham. Sarah and the Doctor stopped in
the Fleur-de-Lys (a pub) and met up with some pretty strange
patrons.

Actually, the Fleur-de-Lys isn't a made-up name, it's a real

pub you can visit and see if Sarah's right about the ginger one
of the largest lakes in Southern England - and the Little Pond,
which is far from little. One or the other (hey, we don't know
everything!) was used in 'The Highlanders' as a Scottish loch.
That, some bagpipe music, and the addition of an actor who
made a career of portraying Scottish parts was all the BBC
needed to invoke Scotland without the cost of actually going
all the way north.

Frensham Ponds, a National Trust area, are about twenty-

two miles south-east of Reading (only four miles south of
Farnham). Take the train to Reading, hire a car there, and head
south on the A33. Branch off at the A32 and continue south to
Hook. Take the A287 through Farnham to the Frensham
National Trust.

Gerrards Cross Quarry, Buckinghamshire
'Tomb of the Cybermen' (Troughton, 1966) 'Attack of the
Cyber-men '(Colin Baker, 1985): Doctor Who has a long and
honourable history of using (we think) every available quarry
or sandpit in Britain. It's understandable - alien landscapes are
hard to come by - and these weirdly wonderful holes fill the
bill, no matter what planet is being used in the storyline.

One Doctor Who favourite is the quarry at Wapsey's Woods

(also known as the Denham chalk pits) near Gerrards Cross.
It's been used at least twice (the Cyberman really like it).

Gerrards Cross is three miles west of Denham on the A40

and can best be reached by car, especially since you'll need it
to search for the quarry (this is why ordnance maps come in
handy.). It's on the rail line if you have an aversion to driving
and want to take a train from London. On arrival you can hire
a taxi to make your recce for the quarry.

Harrison Rocks Climbing Venue, Kent
'Castrovalva' (Davison, 1982): This was the place where the
Doctor, Tegan, and Nyssa climbed into the strangely ordered
existence of Castrovalva. You, too, can try your hand (or
foot!) at climbing, but we can't guarantee you'll reach that
fabled spot of beauty and peace. You might keep in mind what
Janet Fielding reports: even though she was firmly anchored
from above by a rope, she was terrified. Don't try it unless you
know what you're doing and aren't wearing high heels and a
straight skirt.

If you're driving, take the A264 west out of Royal

Tunbridge Wells to the B2188 and turn south. The climbing
rocks are around Groomsbridge. If you take the train to Royal
Tunbridge Wells, you will have to hire a taxi for your rock
hunting expedition.

Harwell Atomic Station, Harwell, Berkshire
'The Android Invasion' (T. Baker, 1975): Supposedly the

Devesham Space Centre this atomic station was not yet
officially opened when the scenes were filmed there.

The Station is about three or four miles west of East

Hagbourne on the B4493 (through Didcot) and most readily
accessible by car, although you can take the train from
London to Didcot and hire a taxi.

Hastings, Sussex
'The Time Meddler' (Hartnell, 1965): This is the scene of the

famous battle, whose outcome the Meddling Monk tried to
change. It's also the 'home' of the first pre-fab castle, erected
on cliffs overlooking the city by William the Conqueror after
the Battle of Hastings in 1066. Although the castle is now in

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ruins - torn down by King John, or perhaps Kamelion in
disguise? - rumours still persist of its being haunted. Why not
try your own clairvoyant talents to seek out messages from the
resident ghost? What remains, including the underground
dungeons (the like of which the Doctor's seen many times) can
be visited -for a small entrance fee - daily from Easter to the
end of September. We advise taking either the West Hill lift
located on George Street to the top of the cliff or renting a
taxi, or taking the bus. There are steps that lead from the Old
Town near St Clement's Church, but climbing them is like
getting caught in a chronic hysterisis. Every time you turn a
corner, there are more steps. If you're in good shape or have a
spare oxygen tank in your backpack, go ahead and try!

St Clement's caves, also on the hill north of the Castle, are a

very strange mixture of natural and man-made underground
passages. Try your luck underworld in seaching for the P7E.
Tradition says smuggling by local gentlemen was carried out
in these caverns, a pursuit the first Doctor became involved in
with 'The Smugglers', but that's another story;.

The Museum of Local History on High Street has life-sized

mannequins and displays concerning the Battle of Hastings
and smuggling if you haven't gotten enough yet. Tourist
Information is at 4, Robertson Terrace.

Hastings can be reached either by train from Charing Cross

Station in about 1 hour and 45 minutes. Coaches leave daily
from Victoria Coach Station and take about three hours.

Hoo, near Strood, Kent
'Inferno' (Pertwee, 1970): A sensational stunt was filmed here
for this episode when stuntman Roy Scammel plunged fifty
feet from a gasometer. Your mission, should you choose to
accept it, is to find the gasometer. We're no help, we don't
even know what it is! (But anything that tall can't be too easy
to hide.)

Hoo is a moderate-sized city on the northern shore of the

River Medway ('Carnival of Monsters'). It has no train station,

101

but you can go to nearby Rochester from Victoria or Charing
Cross in London (about one hour). You can also take a coach
from Victoria Coach Station (running twice daily) for the
ninety minute ride. Once in Rochester, you can hire a taxi to
take you the 2Vi miles to Hoo. Maybe the taxi driver will
know what you're looking for!

Hurley, Tithe Barn, Berkshire
'The Visitation'(Davison, 1982): The Tithe Barn (also

known as the Monk's Barn, built in 1100) and the adjoining
enclosed, brick-tiled courtyard were used as part of Squire
John's residence. Just beyond it, a private manor house and its
near-by dovecote, built in 1306, were also used.

Hurley is one of the many attractive towns that cluster the

Thames's banks not far from London. This site has been
settled for over 1,000 years, so it could easily have seen the
events postulated in this eposide. The Old Bell Hotel just
down the street from the Tithe Barn, has been in existence
since 1135. It claims to be the oldest inn in England and even
boasts a secret passage connecting it to a ruined monastery
several hundred yards away.

For some reason the barman was very coy about admitting

that the Doctor Who cast and crew had ever been in the town,
let alone in the pub. He was the only person we met in
England who wasn't eager to talk about his contact with
Doctor Who. No matter what he says, though, JNT confirms
that he and the cast were in the hotel every day!

Hurley is slightly west of Maidenhead off the A423. There's

no train service to Hurley so it's another location that's best
reached by car from Reading.

Ironbridge Gorge Museum, Telford, Shropshire
'The Mark of the Rani' (C. Baker, 1985): Almost all of the
show (except for the studio recording and one scene shot at
Queen Elizabeth Woods near Harefield Hospital) was filmed
at this complex. The whole area, covering forty-two acres and
including the Blists Hill Open Air Museums and a village

102

showcasing outdated industries and crafts, was the site of the
Industrial Revolution. Bedlam Furnaces (the original iron
smelting forge), is nearby, as is Ironbridge - the world's first
cast-iron bridge. Don't sell yourself short by allowing anything
less than four to five hours here.

Accessible mostly by car, (when you see the directions for

the train, you'll understand why) the Museum is south of
Telford, halfway between Shrewsbury and Wolverhampton/
Birmingham, off the B4380 at the A4169. Cars can be hired in
Birmingham, Wolverhampton, or Shrewsbury.

By train (you're sure you want to?), leave Euston Station in

the morning for Wolverhampton, where you change to a local
train there for Wellington. In Wellington, walk straight ahead
on Station Road to Church Street, make a right and then a left
a few blocks later on Queen Street to the Midland Red Travel
Centre. Get a bus there for a half-hour ride to Ironbridge. The
total trip takes over three hours on a good day. Start early and
don't even attempt it on a Sunday or a holiday.

Isle of Wight, Hampshire
'The Sea Devils' (Pertwee, 1972): Part of this episode was
supposedly filmed at No Man's Land Sea Fort - but we have
yet to find it on a map. Maybe it was swallowed by the Sea
Devils? There are four forts off the shore at the seaside village
of Bembridge, on the east coast between Ryde and Shanklin
so you could try your investigative skills there. No matter, the
sandy beaches and the great lashings of sunshine you'll find on
this island are attractions enough.

Take the train from Waterloo Station to Portsmouth

Harbour, then catch the Portsmouth-Ryde passenger ferry to
the Isle itself. (Your British Rail Pass is good for the passage.)
The boat ride takes approximately twenty-five to thirty
minutes and once on land you can sightsee to either of the
three main cities - Shanklin, Sandown, or Ryde - by train: they
run right onto the pier. All coaches are one class, and we
advise selecting one with ventilators at the top of the windows

103

if travelling in summer; they can be pretty stuffy otherwise.
Your British Rail Pass is also good for these trains.

Shanklin is very pretty, Sandown has a new entertainment

pier, and Ryde is on a hillside where you can lie back and
watch the ships go by. The island is almost as relaxing as the
Eye of Orion which the sixth Doctor is always touting.

Return to the mainland either by the same ferry or by

Hovercraft - a fast seven minute ride that probably won't be as
thrilling as it would be if the third Doctor was piloting.

Knebworth House, Surrey
'Evil of the Daleks' (Troughton, 1967): This was the home of
Sir Arthur Sullivan (perhaps an ancestor of Harry's?) and was
used as Maxtible's house, supposedly near Canterbury. It is
open daily April to September (except Mondays) and has a
deer park, a narrow-gauge railway (similar to the one used in
'The Deadly Assassin'), picnic sites, and a jousting field
among other treats. Plays, readings, and banquets are also
occasionally held, check with the house and/or Tourist
Information for further info.

The house is located near Stevenage, about twenty-five

miles north of London, just off the Al at Knebworth if you're
driving. Take the train from London to the station in
Knebworth and hire a taxi otherwise.

Leeds Castle
'The Androids of Tara' (T. Baker, 1978): Leeds Casde is set on
two islands in the middle of a lake and is considered by many
to be the 'most beautiful castle in the world'. A glass over-lay
was used on the castle when filming to transform it into the
more sinister Castle Gracht. Although Romana almost lost her
head while visiting, we think you'll enjoy yourself without
getting so radically involved.

Unfortunately, dogs are not allowed at the castle - sorry K9!

- but you can see the Great Danes who live there and visit the
unique collection of dog collars that date from the Middle

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Ages. Something called a 'Kentish evening' is presented every
Saturday throughout the year from 7 pm to 1 am. The
festivities start with a sherry cocktail party and include guided
tours of the castle and Fairfax Hall as well as a meal fit for a
king. (Or at least a Count.)

The castle is still used occasionally as a conference centre,

so it may be shut unexpectedly. Check before you go. Leeds is
open daily April to September (except Mondays in April and
May) and Saturdays and Sundays, October through March. It's
located near Maidstone, off the A20, and since there's no
regular bus or train, a car is the most desirable means of
transportation. Alternatively, you can take the train from
London's King's Cross to Leeds and hire a taxi from there.

Longleat, Wiltshire
Doctor Who Exhibition: Longleat House is the ancestral home
of the Marquess of Bath and the site of the official Doctor
Who exhibition. This was the scene of the Easter 1983 BBC-
sponsored Celebration where 35,000 people enjoyed
themselves while having to make do with three toilets. You
won't have to face that kind of crowd when you visit, but do
realise that the Doctor Who exhibition is open only from
Easter to October - unless you're with a group and write ahead
of time to see if arrangements can be made to open it for you.

Although there is a parking fee, a fee to tour the house, and

a separate fee for the Doctor Who exhibition, all are well
worth it. There's even a Safari Park on the grounds where you
can drive through to see the wild animals -including lions - if
they don't eat your car first.

The entrance to Longleat House is on the Warminster-

Frome Road, the A362, and although it's in the middle of
nowhere, it is reasonably well-marked.

You can take the train from London's Paddington Station to

Bath (approximately ninety minutes) or from London's
Waterloo to Salisbury (again, about ninety minutes) and hire a
car in either city.

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Mayfield, Sussex
'The Three Doctors' (Hartnell, Troughton, and Pertwee, 1972):
This small village was the home of William Hartnell and was
used to film his scenes in 'The Three Doctors'. At the time of
the special, he was too ill to travel and so the crew came to
him. The scenes where he appeared on the view-screen in the
TARDIS were all filmed in his garage.

Mayfield is about eight miles south of Royal Tunbridge

Wells on the A267 and only about fifteen miles north-west of
Battle. If you're driving, take the A269 west from Battle, turn
north on the B2096 to the A265 where you turn west. Go
about one mile to the A267 and turn north. It's only about five
miles from there. Or, take the A267 south out of Royal
Tunbridge Wells. Even the car park has a marvellous view of
the surrounding Sussex countryside!

If you're not driving, take the train from London's

Paddington Station to Royal Tunbridge Wells and hire a taxi
from there.

Medway River, Kent
'Carnival of Monsters' (Pertwee, 1973): In this episode, the
TARDIS materialised with the Doctor and Jo on a boat instead
of on Metebelis 3. The passengers thought they were on the
Indian Ocean, but it was actually the Medway.

The Medway flows across the North Downs and enters the

Thames Estuary past the Isle of Grain. This was a very
important water transport route until the advent of trains and
trucks. Maidstone, the country 'seat', and Leeds Castle are
nearby. The A228 runs along much of the river from the M20,
north to Rochester. If you don't have a car, take the train to
Rochester, hire a taxi, or hike.

Middlesex Polytechnic - Trent Park Building
'Mawdryn Undead' (Davison, 1983): The Brig's school is just
that - a real boys' school! It's at Oakwood, just across the street
from the Underground Station of the same name. A long lane

106

leads back to the school with fields on one side and a golf
course on the other. Visitors are not encouraged as they can
disrupt the school schedule. Besides, very little of the
buildings and grounds, or obelisk, can be seen from the road.

Take the Underground (Piccadilly Line) to Oakwood and

then walk if you're really stubborn.

Miserden, Gloucestershire
'K9 and Company' (Lis Sladen, 1982): The last of the three
villages used for the spin-off, Miserden is in the heart of the
Cotswolds at the head of the Golden Valley. It's considered
'modern', having been designed and built only 100 years ago.
The church and churchyard have a remarkable collection of
carved monuments and memorials - perhaps used as Hecate's
followers' playground?

Take the train to Swindon, hire a car and take the A419

north and angle to the west (staying on the A419) at
Cirencester. Continue to Frampton Mansell and follow the
signs. It isn't easy to find, but the scenery is terrific.

Northampton, Northamptonshire
The Talons of Weng-Chiang' (T. Baker, 1977): The Victorian
Repertory Theatre was used for Jago's Music Hall and
composer Dudley Simpson actually played the part of the
music conductor in the episode.

Take the train to Northampton (check with British Railways

or any Tourist Information Centre for times). Tourist
Information is at 21, St Giles Street.

Oxshott Sandpit, Oxshott, Surrey
'The Savages' (Hartnell, 1966): This story was shot in the
quarry/sandpit located near Oxshott on the A244 or the B280
(which is off the A243) about four miles south of Esher, just
south of London proper. You can take the train to either Esher
or Oxshott from London and arrive within minutes. However,
before dematerialising, read the following:

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At the time of the Doctor Who filming, no one knew how

very dangerous this particular location was. Only after
completing filming was it learned that several people had
drowned there. When a young boy was lost in it shortly after
the filming, the sandpit was filled in.

Portsmouth, Hampshire
'The Sea Devils' (Pertwee, 1972): The city, the coastline, and
the HMS Reclaim (for the underwater diving sequences) were
all used for this classic story.

The HMS Reclaim is off-limits to visitors, but you can

follow a carefully marked route just outside Harbour Station
along The Hard to tour Lord Nelson's ship, HMS Victory.
Nearby, the Royal Naval Museum has material on Lord
Nelson, the Batde of Trafalgar, and more contemporary naval
information.

Trains depart Waterloo Station for Portsmouth frequendy

and take ninety-five minutes. Coaches leave Victoria Coach
Station twice daily and take 2

A hours. A car hire is available

but not necessary. This is a good jumping-off point for a
further trip to the Isle of Wight.

Quainton Road Train Station, Quainton,
Buckinghamshire
'Black Orchid' (Davison, 1982): A disused train station
Outside the village of Quainton in Buckinghamshire was used
as Cranleigh Halt.

The Quainton Railway Society has taken it over and have a

collection of steam locomotives and rolling stock on view
here. No wonder there wasn't a real train seen arriving at the
station!

Quainton is off the A41 north-west of Aylesbury, just north

of Waddesdon - follow the signs.

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Queen Elizabeth Woods, Buckinghamshire
'The Mark of the Rani' (C. Baker, 1984): The scene where the
Doctor was tied to a pole and carried off by the miners was
shot here. When the camera crew suddenly had to troop off to
a different location to take advantage of the light, Colin Baker
was left alone on the ground, tied hand and food to the pole.
An elderly couple walking their dog found him lying there
helpless. After their dog had given him a good going-over
(luckily he decided Colin wasn't a tree or a fire hydrant), the
couple simply hurried off - without ever once saying a word or
asking if they could help! Is this some obscure British custom
we're not aware of? The woods are just north of Denham off
the A412 near Harefield (and Harefield Hospital). Rent a car
or prepare for some walking.

Runnymede, Surrey
'The King's Demons' (Davison, 1983): The site of the signing
of the Magna Carta, Runnymede is a broad-meadow along the
Thames between Windsor and Staines, south of the A308.
Kingjohn came from Windsor and the angry Barons came
from Staines. Of course, in Doctor Who terms, Kamelion was
playing the King several miles away (in what we know as
Bodiam Castle).

The main road is only twenty yards from the meadow, but-if

you'd rather see it from the peaceful side, you can also take a
boat trip from London.

Shapwick, Dorset
'The Awakening' (Davison, 1983): The Litde Hodcombe
scenes were shot in this small typical Dorset village.

Shapwick can be reached by car using the B3082 northwest

out of Wimborne Minster (just north of Bournemouth and
Poole) or off the A350 from Poole itself. There is no train to
Shapwick but you can take one to Bournemouth from
London's Waterloo Station in about two hours. A car can be

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hired in Bournemouth, or a taxi, or (we suppose) a horse and
cart if you look hard enough.

Stargroves, Berkshire
'Image of the Fendahl'(T. Baker, 1977): Seen as Fetch Priory.
'Pyramids of Mars' (T. Baker, 1975): Seen as Scarman's home.

'The Seeds of Doom' (T. Baker, 1976): Used as Harrison

Chase's house and gardens.

The house, which used to belong to Mick Jagger, is located

towards Reading in Berkshire, and is on the western side of
the shire and best reached by car. Oddly enough, the man who
built it also worked on the home of Lord Caernavon, the man
who financed the expedition that found the tomb of King
Tutankhamen: very appropriate in view of the subject of
'Pyramids of Mars'!

For more exact directions, take the train to Reading and stop

in at a local pub! Remember that this is a private home and is
not open for tourists!

Stonehenge, near Salisbury
Not used in Doctor Who, but the atmosphere of this stone
circle (with a lintel stone lying across two uprights) matches
the otherworld feeling of 'The Stones of Blood' - unlike the
actual site of Avebury, which has a 'home town' feeling.

Stonehenge is by far the most famous of all stone circles in

the world. Controversy rages as to who built it or why (for a
burial ground, a sun-worshipping site, a Neolithic computing
machine, or human sacrificial temple? Who knows - and he
isn't telling!) or even when it was built. Most sources agree it
is at least 3,500 to 5,000 years old, placing it sometime after
Rassilon and before the birth of the previous Lord President.

Whatever the stone circle was used for, the sight of it

crouching on the bleak, wind-swept plains of Salisbury is awe-
inspiring. Many of the boulders, especially the bluestones
which weigh many thousands of pounds and range up to 21
feet in height, were moved hundreds of miles from where they

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were quarried. Some were thought to have come from as far
away as southern Wales. How? Good question. On the plain,
anything seems possible!

(We kept looking over our shoulders for the Cailleach and

were quite prepared to take off running if any of those stones
moved an inch!)

Although the site is miles from anywhere, reaching it is not

all that difficult. By car, it's on the A360/A344, off the A303
(two miles west of Amesbury) and can easily be reached from
Bath or Salisbury. Travelling by train from London, leave
from Waterloo on the 9.10 train. It will take 1 hour 45
minutes, to get to Salisbury. Once there, take the special
Stonehenge excursion bus at Salisbury Station. There
Harefield Hospital). Rent a car or prepare for some walking.

Runnymede, Surrey
'The King's Demons' (Davison, 1983): The site of the signing
of the Magna Carta, Runnymede is a broad-meadow along the
Thames between Windsor and Staines, south of the A308.
Kingjohn came from Windsor and the angry Barons came
from Staines. Of course, in Doctor Who terms, Kamelion was
playing the King several miles away (in what we know as
Bodiam Castle).

The main road is only twenty yards from the meadow, but-if

Shapwick can be reached by car using the B3082 northwest

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'The Seeds of Doom' (T. Baker, 1976): Used as Harrison

Chase's house and gardens.

The house, which used to belong to Mick Jagger, is located

For more exact directions, take the train to Reading and stop

Stonehenge is by far the most famous of all stone circles in

Whatever the stone circle was used for, the sight of it

112

were quarried. Some were thought to have come from as far
away as southern Wales. How? Good question. On the plain,
anything seems possible!

(We kept looking over our shoulders for the Cailleach and

were quite prepared to take off running if any of those stones
moved an inch!)
Although the site is miles from anywhere, reaching it is not all
that difficult. By car, it's on the A360/A344, off the A303 (two
miles west of Amesbury) and can easily be reached from Bath
or Salisbury. Travelling by train from London, leave from
Waterloo on the 9.10 train. It will take 1 hour 45 minutes, to
get to Salisbury. Once there, take the special Stonehenge
excursion bus at Salisbury Station. There is a small fee
(around £2) for the bus and admission to Stone-henge. The
buses don't run on Sundays, Bank holidays, or from 1 January
through to mid-April. If you can get to Amesbury, you can try
walking the two miles to Stonehenge.

Yes, the site is fenced in - you can only observe it - but for

all that, it attracts a half-million visitors a year and is
surprisingly untouristy even with its car park, souvenir stand,
and refreshment centre.

While in Salisbury, you might want to drop by the Chapter

House of Salisbury Cathedral which contains a copy of the
Magna Carta ('The King's Demons'). The museum in Salisbury
also contains many items from Stonehenge. The Salisbury
Tourist Information office is at 10, Endless Street. Leave the
rail station, go down Fisherton to the market square and turn
left at the end of the square.

Sussex Downs
'The War Games' (Troughton, 1969): Site of the 'Highlands'

where Jamie was set down by the Time Lords and fired upon
by Cumberland's men at the end of the final episode.

'The Highlanders' (Troughton, 1966): Pseudo-Scotland, but

with the wicked shooting schedule of the early years, no one
had time to travel all the way north.

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You'll need a car to tour this area of rolling hills and lakes

that stretches from Petersfield (about twenty miles northwest
of Bognor Regis) to just west of Eastbourne. The Downs are
well-renowned for their beauty; the landscape rises and falls
like waves and - wonder of wonders! -sunshine is in good
supply. Take a train to Brighton; rent a car, and be sure that
you have a good ordnance-type map showing at least three
miles to the inch.

Villiers House, Ealing Broadway, West London
'Enemyof the WorW(Troughton, 1967): The building,

formerly the home of BBC Enterprises, was used as Kent's
HQ in the episode. Take the Underground (Central Line) to
Ealing Broadway (the end of the line). As you leave the
station, turn right and there you are. Villiers House is actually
part of the station building. Take pictures of the front, but
remember -this is a place of business, and they don't welcome
fans 'dropping in'.

Wimbledon Common, South-West London
'TheMassacre' (Hartnell, 1966): Used because it gave the feel
of 'wide open space'. Dodo appeared for the first time in the
last four minutes of the fourth episode as the Doctor and
Steven escaped the St Bartholomew's Day Massacre. Stopping
briefly on the Common they picked up a new passenger.

To reach it, take the Underground (the District Line) to

Wimbledon. The Common is south-west from the station,
through Wimbledon Park (yes, the home of the Tennis Club).
Don't try to go by foot, it's too far. Take the bus or a taxi. The
Common is big and should be treated with respect. For all
intents and purposes, you're in the country.

Wookey Hole, Somerset
'Revenge of the Cybermen' (T. Baker, 1974): This was the
mysterious planetoid of the Vogans - but don't expect to find
gold lying around on the ground here!

114

Wookey Hole, contrary to its name, is not frequented by

Chewbacca's relatives but is a group of caves (or series of
chambers) worn out of the carboniferous limestone of the
Mendip Hills. There are at least twenty-five chambers, of
which numbers One, Two, Three, Seven, Eight, and Nine are
open to the public.

In chamber One, Lis Sladen (as Sarah Jane) had to cross a

deceptively placid-looking river in a skitter boat. That river -
the River Axe - is extremely dangerous (eleven million gallons
of water races through it each day!). While filming, she lost
control of the little craft. Stuart Fell, the stunt man who'd
remained behind after his earlier scenes because he felt
'uneasy', was able to jump in and rescue her from almost
certain drowning.

Chamber Three, one of the largest single domed caves in the

world, is easily recognisable as the place where the transmat
beacons were located and where Harry beamed down with
Sarah Jane who had been poisoned by a Cybermat. Don't let
the guides try and tell you this is where the TARDIS landed!
The tunnel leading from the furthest chamber, the ninth, to the
outside was cut in 1974 just prior to filming and was also used
extensively in the chase scenes.

Lis Sladen's brush with death wasn't the only unusual

happening at Wookey Hole. In Chamber One, there's a rock
shaped like a woman, known as the 'Witch of Wookey Hole'.
It was supposedly a real person who was turned into stone
many years ago by a parson after she'd stolen and cooked a
child from a nearby village. It was by that spot that Lis Sladen
and Ian Marter were looking over their scripts. One scene
worried them and after talking it over, they decided to check
with the director about it. When they approached him,
however, he asked, 'What scene?' They searched their scripts
but neither could find it again. Nor could it be found in anyone
else's script. Perhaps the 'Witch' was playing tricks on the
intruders?

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The caves aren't the only attraction at Wookey Hole. There's

an entire complex that consists of the Hole, a paper-making
mill dating from the 1700s, where paper is still made by hand;
Lady Bangor's Fairground Collection of merry-go-round
figures and mechanical organs; and Madame Tussaud's Store
Rooms where hundreds of wax heads, memorabilia, clothing,
etc. are stored. Be on the look-out for a wax figure of Tom
Baker as Meglos, a Sea Devil, a Foamasi, a Nimon, a
Sontaran, and Davros - all of whom are stored in the very last
room of the store rooms. They may be made into a special
exhibit if enough interest is generated.

Wookey Hole is about two miles north-west of Wells (which

can be reached by the A361, the A39, or the B3139) with
signposts clearly directing motorists to the spot. Take the train
to Wells and get a taxi if you're not driving around the area.
Plan to spend at least 2 to 2 Vi hours there as there's the
papermaking to watch as well as a museum to see. A
restaurant and rest rooms are available at the complex along
with a large car park. There is an admission fee but no parking
fee and the complex is open year round except Christmas Day.

Quarries We Have Known and Loved:
Doctor Who probably uses more quarries in a year than any
other programme in the history of television. We could not
possibly list them all, but here are a few of the more
interesting ones. No true fan of Doctor Who should consider
visiting Britain without stopping to pay respects to at least one
quarry. If, during your travels, you find an unlisted, interesting
quarry, in easy reach of London, be sure to notify the Doctor
Who Production Office. They're always looking for exciting
new (and cheap) locations.

Quarry at Wapsey's Woods near Gerrards Cross: 'Tomb of

the Cybermen' (Troughton, 1966); 'TheMutants' (Pertwee,
1972); 'Attack of the Cybermen' (C. Baker, 1985). Also known
as the Denham chalk pits. Three miles west of Denham on the
A40.

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'BBC sandpit": 'The Caves of Androzani' (Davison, 1984)

near Wareham, Devon (half-way between Bournemouth and
Portland Bill. Take the A35 west out of Bournemouth to the
A351 south into Wareham. You're on your own finding the
sandpit).

Oxshott sandpit: 'The Savages' (Hartnell, 1966) in Oxshott,

about four miles south of Esher, Surrey, and just south of
London proper. Sandpit closed soon after filming because of
loss of life there.

Quarry used in 'The Smugglers' (Hartnell, 1966) was

probably the one at Church Cove (see on location). A great
place to collect serpentine rocks.

Clustering

The contents of this chapter have been laid out so each could
be a day trip from a central base in London. If, however, you
would rather hire a car and combine several single trips into
one longer trip staying overnight at local B&B places, here are
some suggestions:

From Swindon: Avebury; Aldbourne; East Hagbourne;

Harwell; Abdington; Radley, and Bagley Woods; Barnsley,
Bisley, and Miserden, Gloucester. From Reading: Denham,
Buckinghamshire; Gerrard's Cross; Black Park, Iver Heath;
Frensham Ponds; Hurley; Runnymede; Oxshott; Queen
Elizabeth Woods, Harefield; East Hagbourne; and Harwell.

From Dover: Canterbury; Dover; Dungeness, Mayfield;

Leeds; and Hastings.

From Hastings: Hastings; Battle; Bodiam; Mayfield; Royal

Tunbridge Wells; Withyham; Harrison Climbing Rocks
Venue, Groomsbridge; and Brighton.

From Brighton: Brighton; Bognor Regis; Littlehampton;

and the Sussex Downs.

From Salisbury: Stonehenge; Longleat; Wells and Wookey

Hole.

From Bournemouth: Shapwick, Dorset; 'BBC sandpit',

Wareham; Portland Bill Quarries.

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On Location

Every once in a while, Doctor Who is able to go on location.
By this, we mean packing up and travelling beyond a
commuting limit from London. And, boy!, when they go on
location, they go on location. We don't advise attempting to go
these places and come back the same day . . . unless, of
course, you have access to a TARDIS. (In which case - we'd
like a word with you!)

We've clustered the trips in this section from the beginning

so you can plan your time and travel arrangements
accordingly.

Cornwall
Cornwall is in the extreme southwestern part of Britain. It's a
peninsula where (west of Truro) the sea's never more than
seven miles away. The whole area reeks of superstition -fairy
tales, folklore, and King Arthur - and Doctor Who fits right in
with the myths and legends.

Penzance, the chief town, is the most westerly town in

Britain and a delightful seaside resort on its own, and is
perfect as a base for your explorations of the Doctor Who sites
used in this area.

We suggest you travel by train. It's 280 miles from London

to Penzance: if you drove, you'd be spending most of your
precious time in a car. Besides, the train service from
London's Paddington station is terrific. You can chose to
travel by an overnight sleeper (leaving London about

119

midnight and arriving the next morning about 8 am) or by an
Intercity express (about five hours). We suggest the sleeper,
not only because it's fun but you don't have to pay extra for a
hotel room. And, as a bonus, you don't 'lose' any time
travelling. (Just don't forget to make reservations!) You'll miss
all the breathtaking scenery in between, but you'll arrive
refreshed and ready to go. Even better, there's a car hire office
barely twenty feet outside the train station -a real necessity as
the locations you want to see are scattered, and hirjng a taxi
could be prohibitive.

If you want to stay overnight or even longer, there are lots of

B&B places, costing about £9-15 a night. It's imperative to
have reservations during the high season (lots of other people
want to vacation here too, remember, even if they never heard
of Doctor Who), and a good idea at any time. You can write to
the Tourist Information in Penzance for information on B&B
places available, check with your travel agent, or read any one
of the several books we've listed in the bibliography. If you
decide to write, do so several months in advance and enclose a
self-addressed, stamped envelope if you are writing in Britain,
or an International Reply coupon if you're overseas.

All right, you have a car and a place to stay and you're ready

to go sightseeing. Where do you go? Why not start in
Penzance?

Penzance
'The Smugglers' (Hartnell, 1966): The headquarters unit was
based here but we have no clue which house or building was
used. The city, the main shopping centre and principal town in
Cornwall, is thriving, busy, and interesting. During the high
season it's imperative to have reservations as it's also a
wonderful seaside resort. Even better from our standpoint (it
was a little too chilly when we were there to consider a dip in
the water), it abounds with terrific eating places. Don't miss
the local delicacy of strawberries and clotted cream, no matter
how that sounds to you at first. Seafood is abundant in

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the local restaurants and you'll almost trip over the many
Chinese and Indian eateries sprinkled throughout the city.

One sight you won't want to miss is St Michael's Mount, an

'island' that rises 250 feet out of the bay across from Penzance.
It's the sister of the one of the same name in France where the
Langella Dracula movie was filmed. Topped by a fortified
fourteenth-century Benedictine house (delightfully spooky
when surrounded by wisps of fog), you can walk across the
causeway to it at low tide. According to legend, it was here
that the child Christ was brought by Joseph of Arimathea on
their way to Glastonbury. Don't say we didn't warn you,
though: after a longish walk over the causeway, there's a stiff
climb up cobbled streets to the castle. Wear sensible shoes!

The other location sites are either west of the city or south-

east. Why not start your day by driving to the first piece of
land that can be seen when approaching England?

Land's End
'The Smugglers' (Hartnell, 1966): This is just what the name
implies - where England ends. (Or, according to your view-
point, where it begins.) Director Julia Smith wanted to use
Cornwall to add flavour to the story, and use it she did! The
coasdine along here is nothing short of spectacular and there is
an unrivalled view of the Atlantic.

Strangely enough, Land's End is not public property. It's

privately owned and you must pay to visit it. The cost,
however, isn't great (approximately £1.80), and there's a car
park large enough to accommodate a great number of cars as
well as several buses. Don't let the thought of having to pay
put you off: this is definitely a 'must', if only to see how really
big the ocean is.

When Doctor Who filmed here, the weather was rotten -wet

and windy, the land lashed with wild seas. This brings up a
good point: check the forecast before venturing out here.
When it storms, the weather can be fierce, fierce, fierce! Dress
warmly, even in summer. Remember, there's

121

nothing to stop the wind or even slow it down between here
and America, 3,291 miles away. In winter, don't even think
about visiting without your thermals.

Land's End covers several acres and, while there are several

well-marked footpaths, this doesn't mean all dangers have
been removed. Rocks jut out of the ground determined to trip
the unwary and there are absolutely no fences to prevent
visitors from stepping off the top of the cliffs and crashing
into the sea 200 feet below. You can literally walk right off
the 'end of the world' if you're not careful. Small children and
dumb adults must be watched closely and rescued from their
own carelessness if necessary.

Wind, sea, rocks, and a lighthouse right out of 'Fang Rock'

aren't the only things you'll find at this intriguing spot. There's
quite a large complex that includes exhibition rooms (imagine
our surprise when we stumbled upon an entire Worzel
Gummidge display complete with costumes, life-sized figures,
and piped-in music with Jon Pertwee singing!), a museum
devoted to marine and oceanographic studies, a souvenir shop
(with good merchandise available), an ice cream parlour, the
Cornish Pantry snack bar, and the State House (which has a
fully-licensed bar and complete restaurant). The 'First and Last
House in England', a small cottage which sits out close to the
point, is a craft centre and workshop that has nifty hand-made
goods at affordable prices. You can even watch the artists
while they work to create your very own special souvenir.

Take the A30 south-west out of Penzance direct to Land's

End. Although it's only about eight miles out of the city, allow
at least thirty minutes to get there as the twists and turns in the
road don't encourage speed. On your way back, you might
want to try the B3315, a beautiful, although narrow, winding
road. If you do, about four to five miles from Land's End
you'll run across the Merry Maidens. No, they aren't a strange
offshoot of the Sisterhood of Karn. The Merry Maidens is a
great stone circle set in the middle of (we think) a cow
pasture. The field is private but you can stand

122

at the fence and marvel at the nineteen stones. Legend has it
that the stones were once maidens who didn't keep the proper
Sabbath but listened and danced to the music two Pipers
played one holy day. All of the maidens - and the two Pipers! -
were instantly changed to stone for their unpious behaviour.
(The two tall, standing stones of the Pipers are down the road
about another !4 mile.) During the Second World War, it was
felt the stones should be pulled down so the field could be
cultivated for crops. Accordingly, a team of horses was
hitched to the first stone and, when the order 'gee-up!' was
given, one of the horses immediately dropped over dead!
Needless to say, the Merry Maidens are still standing. We told
you this was a land of myth and superstition ...

From Penzance, drive south and east to the first of three

stops, another place of pounding surf and breathtaking scenery
- Lizard's Point.

Lizard's Point or The Lizard
'The Smugglers' (Hartnell, 1966): This southernmost point of
England was another site Director Julia Smith used to help
create an almost Du Maurier novel atmosphere for this
swashbuckling episode.

If it crosses your mind that Doctor Who doesn't seem to like

to use easy-to-reach areas, we agree. The Lizard is no
exception. Take the A30 east out of Penzance to the A394.
This will take you into Helston where you pick up the A3083
south direct to the Point. Although it's only about twenty miles
from your base, allow plenty of time as the roads get
progressively narrower the closer you get to your destination.
Must be some sort of inverse rule the BBC has cooked up to
keep Doctor Who in the studio. In fact, the last mile or so, the
road is extremely narrow - only one car wide - with tall hedges
on either side. If you meet another car, one of you has to pull
over in a 'lay-by' (an area of the road which has been widened
a bit) so you can pass. Courtesy is imperative - one of you
may have to back up!

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Once you reach the Lizard, you'll find cafes, craft and gift

houses, B&B places, and a couple of car parks. Naturally,
there's another light house along with a magnificent sweep of
the shoreline and the sea - this time the English Channel rather
than the Atlantic.

There's a path leading down to Polpear Cove (below you as

you look over the west cliff edge) where a seemingly deserted
- and rather crumbly-looking - boathouse and concrete and
wood pier are located. We're not sure if they're still in use, but
rescue lifeboats used to be launched from there. Perhaps this
beachy area was one of the places where the Doctor, Ben, and
Polly tried to outwit the smugglers and find the buried treasure
of pirate Captain Avery.

We hate to sound like a broken record, but there aren't any

fences at the cliff edges here, either. If you don't want to take a
quick trip down to the sea (some 150 feet below!) stay back.

Retracing your footsteps a bit before turning off to the west

will bring you to the next location.

Church Cove
'The Smugglers' (Hartnell, 1966): About twenty-five miles
south-east of Penzance and just east of Lizard Point lies
Church Cove - one of the main sites for this ambitious
Hartnell episode - and it fits the Doctor Who 'on location'
requirements perfectly. It has its own quarry! (So what if it's
been deserted for years?) The TARDIS materialised in a cave
here chosen by director Smith from her own knowledge of the
area.

At the time of the filming, the production crew had

problems transporting the TARDIS mock-up (not to mention
the camera equipment) into the Cove and not all their
difficulties were weather-related. It's easy to see why -the
'road' leading to the quarry part of Cove is not the greatest. It
must have been a nightmare for the lorries to negotiate,
especially in the rotten weather they encountered. We, of
course, found it only after our ungainly scramble (weighed

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down with purses, camera, and recording equipment) over a
hill. That only goes to prove we should have done what every
UNIT soldier knows to do: always scout out the lay of the land
first.

For some strange reason (they liked the name?), there's

another Church Cove about ten miles north of Lizard's Point
and slightly south-west of Cury. We're going with the one
with the quarry.

Although the Church Cove you want is somewhat difficult

to find (and the last part of the trip must be made by foot),
you'll be well rewarded once you get there. The views of the
English Channel are magnificent, but do be careful - like
every other place we visited with cliff edges, there's no fences,
the drop is straight down to the rocks and sea below, and the
ground is crumbly in wet weather.

Ruan Minor, Cornwall
'The Smugglers' (Hartnell, 1966): This has been described (in
other books) as a 'deserted' town near Lizard's Point used for
'atmosphere' but its very lively inhabitants (including a
wolfhound that dwarfed our car) would dispute that idea.

Outside of a couple of old churches here and at Ruan Major

(a nearby smaller village - don't ask us why it's named Major
and the larger one Minor, the names must be based on some
convoluted Time Lord logic), there isn't anything remotely
like a ruin nor is it in any way, shape, or form deserted. It is,
however, a snug Cornwall village and interesting to see on
your way to Lizard's Point.

If you want to check up on us, turn off the A3083 about two

miles north of Lizard's Point and follow the signs to both Ruan
Minor and Ruan Major!

One final note; if you 'misplace' the A3083 on your side trip

to the Ruan villages as we did, you'll find yourself travelling
on the Goonhilly Downs (going north to get on the B3293 to
return to Penzance). There you'll be able to see the satellite
communication dishes set up on the flat, windswept landscape,

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a bizarre but (for Doctor Who fans) a not out-of-place sight. It
fits in so neatly with the concept of the show that you almost
expect the Master, the Meddling Monk, or some renegade
Time Lord to jump out at you in his attempts to take over the
country or the world or the galaxy or the universe!

Quite a distance from Penzance (some sixty-five miles to the

northeast) lies one of the spookiest areas we've come across.

Dartmoor
'The Sontaran Experiment' (T. Baker, 1975): Wherever the
episode was filmed on the moor, it was far enough away from
'civilisation' that when Tom Baker fell and broke his collar-
bone, the crew had to carry him by stretcher for almost a mile
to get to a road and transportation.

Dartmoor lies to the north-east of Penzance and, as anyone

who watched 'The Sontaran Experiment' knows, its landscape
is lonely and foreboding. Sprouting out of the ground are the
Tors, huge rock formations of granite that sometimes soar to
more than 2,000 feet. About the only inhabitants of the moor
you'll see are some herds of shy, flighty Dartmoor wild ponies.
Bright lights and civilisation are definitely not in vogue here.

Throughout the area are stables where you can arrange for a

day's trek on horseback across the moors if you're determined
to visit. All are licensed and you are accompanied by an
experienced rider/guide. We can't list all of them, so if you're
interested, write to the Dartmoor National Park Board, Parke,
Haytor Road, Bovey Tracey, Newton Abbot and ask for a free
publication, The Dartmoor Visitor. Naturally, if you're writing
from overseas, send an International Reply Coupon with your
inquiry. Prices are somewhere around £3 per hour up to
around £12 for a full day.

You don't have to drive up from Penzance to Dartmoor, you

can take the train from Paddington station to Exeter, rent a car,
and drive out on the B3212.

Make sure you have a good ordnance survey map, don't

wander far from the main roads, and watch your step if you

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decide to go without a trusty native guide. There are
dangerous areas of bog and quicksand on Dartmoor. On
reflection, you'd be luckier if you met up with Styre rather
than go out on the moor alone!

Iken Marshes
'The Power of Kroll (T. Baker, 1978): This episode was shot
in the marsh land around Iken, a small (very small) village
about fifteen miles north-east of Ipswich. Mary Tamm
considered it one of the worst filming experiences she ever
had - probably because both she and Tom Baker got totally
stuck in the mud and couldn't move until they were rescued!

Miles away from anything (the closest 'large' town is

Aldeburgh and that's four miles away across the River Aide!),
Iken is only three miles east of the North Sea coast, set in a
bleak landscape. This is truly an 'out-of-the-way' location. If,
after what we've said, you still want to visit, we suggest taking
the train to Ipswich from London's Liverpool Street Station (it
takes about 1 hr, 15 minutes), rent a car there, and drive. Take
the A12 north out of Ipswich to Lower Hacheston. Turn east
on the B1078 to Tunstall where you again turn north on the
B1069. Go about one mile and follow the signs. Although
we're sure you won't be bothered by Kroll (Time Lord's
Honour!), we won't be responsible if you insist on getting out
and tramping through the marsh on foot.

Jodrell Bank Radio Telescope, Cheshire
'Logopolis' (T. Baker, 1981): This was the site of the fourth
Doctor's regeneration and as such deserves a visit both to
mourn the passing of one Doctor and to celebrate the 'birth' of
another.

Jodrell Bank is about twenty miles south of Manchester and

about the same distance north from Newcastle-Under-Lyme
and Stoke-on-Trent. All three cities have car hire offices and
can be reached by train. Depart Euston station for

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Manchester(travel time approximately 1 hour, 45 minutes),
and check with British Rail for schedules to the other two.

Once in Manchester, take the A34 south to Alderley Edge.

Pick up the A535 there and continue south about six miles.
Jodrell Bank telescope will be on your right. From Stoke-on-
Trent or Newcastle-Under-Lyme take the A50 north to
Holmes Chapel, pick up the A535 there and continue north for
three miles and the telescope is on your left.

We're not sure whether Jodrell Bank is open for tours or not,

so check With Jodrell itself, the British Tourist Authority, or
Tourist Information in London before you present yourself at
their doorstep.

This next location is far enough away that it can't really be

seen in one day, but it's close to a day trip area. We'll leave it
up to you as to how you regard it!

Portland Bill (Isle of Portland)
'The Underwater Menace' (Troughton, 1967): This was one of
the three stories that has dealt, in one way or another, with the
lost continent of Atlantis. In it, the TARDIS lands on an
extinct volcanic rock surrounded by sea which isn't a bad
description of Portland Bill itself.

Portland Bill is a two-mile wide peninsula linked with the

mainland by the Chesil Bank, a long spit of land. The Isle is
famous for the quarries which scar almost all of its level,
treeless surfaces. Most visitors will be familiar with Portland
stone since they've already seen it - St Paul's Cathedral,
Buckingham Palace, and Whitehall were all built from it.
Even American fans can claim kinship as the stone for the
White House and the United Nations Headquarters was
quarried here. Any good Doctor Who fan should make the
pilgrimage here just to do homage to the quarries that litter the
landscape!

There are two castle here that are of interest - one in ruins

and the other, Portland Castle, well preserved and still
standing on the northern shore as it has since 1520.

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This is another place that isn't exactly easy to reach but, as

it's off the beaten track, you won't have to fight your way
through throngs of tourists, either. We suggest you travel by
train from London's Waterloo station to Bournemouth (in a
little over an hour) which is the closest city with a car rental.
Portland Isle is approximately thirty miles south-west of there.
You can take either the A35 west out of the city to Dorchester
where you turn south on the A354 to the Isle or take the A35
out of the city until you come to the A351 turn-off. (This is
about eight miles from the centre of town and just about two
miles beyond Upton.) The A351 will take you into Wareham,
home of the infamous 'BBC sandpit' used in so many of the
Doctor Who episodes and 'The Caves of Androzani' in
particular. From Wareham, (you're on your own finding the
sandpit!), take the A352 to the A353 and merge into the A354
at Melcombe Regis. The A354 will take you onto the Isle.

There's a bonus with this trip: Shapwick (Little Hodcombe

in "TheAwakening') is only about ten miles northwest of
Bournemouth. If you get a car, you might as well kill two
Malices with one stone and swing through it while you're in
the neighbourhood. Take the A35 west to the A350 (less than
a mile beyond Upton), the turn-off to Shapwick is only about
four miles further on to your right, just follow the signs.

Skegness Beach, Lincolnshire
'Fury from the Deep' (Troughton, 1968): This story
supposedly took place at a North Sea gas refinery and (wonder
of wonders!) a beach actually on the North Sea was used for
filming. The Weed Creatures threatened Victoria and the rest
but for once the monsters were thwarted by a companion's
scream - killed dead, by Victoria's lung power! (Knew all that
practising would come in handy!) After all that, she bowed out
in this show's final episode.

Skegness is a seaport on the north-east coast at one end of a

great bay called The Wash. Its train station is not on the main
line. You can take a train from King's Cross Station to Lincoln

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(approximately two hours), and probably connect with
Skegness there or depart from St Pancras station to go to
Nottingham (again, about two hours) to make your
connection. Check with any British Rail office for exact times,
etc. There is a car rental office in Lincoln so you could get a
car there and drive, the A158 takes you direcdy from Lincoln
to Skegness.

Scotland
Land of the kilt and bagpipes, this is not a separate country
(although the banks, banknotes, church, and law courts are
different) no matter what most red-blooded Scots and Jamie
tell you! Have no fear, your English pound notes will be
readily accepted and there's no difference in the exchange
rates. It's just that the Scots have never forgotten they were an
ancient and independent kingdom who merged with England
of their own free will.

Inverness is the 'Capital of the Highlands' and is marvellous

for your base to explore Doctor Who sites. You can reach it by
overnight sleeper from London's Euston station, leaving about
2210 one night and arriving about 0900 the next morning. The
trip takes about ten hours so do whatever your time allows. If
you decide on the sleeper, make sur6 you reserve your berth
ahead of time.

The car rental office is (thoughtful of them) inside the

station. Just outside the main doors of the station is a taxi
stand. We found it's possible to rent a taxi for several hours to
ferry you to your stops, leaving you free to watch the scenery
instead of trying to navigate. Make sure you and the driver
agree on the price you're going to pay.

The Tourist Information Centre is on Church Street if you

need any help in booking a room or just picking up pamphlets
of local interest. Take Union Street (perpendicular to the front
of the train station) to where it runs into Church Street and
turn left.

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Jamie's capital city has a rich history all of its own.

Controversy still rages as to whether Macbeth killed King
Duncan in the old castle (Auld Castlehill, to the east of the
present day Castlehill) or in Cawdor Castle just 4 Vi miles
south of the city. The Castle of Inverness now occupies the
site of an ancient fortress blown up by Jacobites in 1746 (with
Jamie's help?) and Clock Tower is all that remains of a fort
erected by Cromwell's army ('The Awakening').

There are many inexpensive hotels, guesthouses, and B&B

places in Inverness and the surrounding countryside if you'd
like to stay over for a few days. We do recommend you book
ahead as this is quite a popular tourist area as well as the site
for the 'Mod', a regular Scottish get-together showing off skills
in sports, dancing, singing and piping.

Culloden
'The Highlanders' (Troughton, 1966): This is where Jamie was
supposed to be when he first met the Doctor while fleeing
theDukeofCumberland'srampagingarmyon 16 April, 1746.

Culloden Moor is where Bonnie Prince Charlie (Stewart)

and his Jacobite army were finally crushed, ending forever the
Stewart family's claim to the throne of England. It's a lonely,
wind-swept (wear your thermal underwear!), boggy plain
about six miles north-east of Inverness. A cairn marks the site
on Drummossie Muir where the battle (all forty minutes of it)
raged. At the end, 1,200 out of the 5,000 who'd fought for the
Prince met violent ends while the King's army lost only 310.

Today there's a well-equipped centre at Culloden that not

only has a museum, but a gift shop and a tea-room when you
need a break from the bleakness of the moor. There's even an
audio-visual presentation available to help you to see what the
battle must have been like for Jamie and what the Doctor must
have found when he materialised out of the vortex.

Leanach Cottage - within a few feet of the Centre - was

smack in the midst of that terrible battle in 1746. It's still
standing and was actually inhabited up until 1912. Now

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restored to what it was in Prince Charlie's time, it's open to the
public, complete with authentic Scottish music. Most of the
songs while we were there were laments, entirely appropriate
and strangely evocative considering the surroundings.

Take the A9 south out of Inverness for about one mile if

you're driving yourself, and turn off on the B9006. This will
take you directly to Culloden. It's about four miles from the
city.

Loch Ness
'Terror of the Zygons' (T. Baker, 1975): The actual filming of
this episode took place outside Bognor Regis in Sussex, but
this is the real thing! Legendary home of Nessie, the Loch
Ness Monster, this was a fitting pool for the Zygon's Skarasen.

The Loch (a Scottish name for lake) is a part of the Great

Glen, a geological fault that slashes across Scodand like a
sword-cut. The lake is twenty-four miles long, about a mile
across, and has an average depth of 400 feet. The waters are
very murky (due to the peaty soil carried into it by the eight
rivers feeding it), and that helps hide whatever's swimming
around in its cold, unexplored depths.

Along its shores are the remains of Castle Urquhart, blown

up in the late 1600s to prevent it from becoming a Jacobite
stronghold. The Duke of Forgill's castle no doubt was inspired
by this well-known Scottish landmark, especially as most of
the sightings of Nessie happen here. Legend says there are
caves below Urquhart Castle where colonies of the 'real'
Nessie live.

Believe what you want, sightings of something have been

reported since the sixth century on by such 'unimpeachable'
sources as St Columba who was supposed to have stopped a
River Ness water monster from eating a Pict! A fourteenth-
century map tells chillingly of 'waves without wind, fish
without fins, [and] islands that float'. Over the past forty years,
sightings have been claimed by more than 1,000 people;
special 'sighting squads' have been funded, and even

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underwater exploration and aerial searches have been carried
out - all without any real, hard proof. Maybe you'll be lucky
on your visit and get to shake Nessie's flipper!

Take the A82 south out of Inverness, and it's about fifteen

miles to Castle Urquhart. The Castle is open to the public, but
you'd better check with Tourist Information on the times.

On your way to or from the Loch, stop off at

Drumnadrochit, on the A82 about two miles before you get to
Urquhart Castle, at the entrance to Glen Urquhart. This
pleasant little hamlet houses the Loch Ness Exhibition where
you can see pictures, movies of the monster, and learn about
serious attempts by scientists to solve the mystery. There's
even (naturally!) a gift shop where you can buy items both
Scottish (wonderful woollens) and monsterish (T-shirts with
Nessie glaring out at you). A restaurant is next door and
perfect to slack your hunger. After all, monster-hunting,
whether searching for the Skarasen or Nessie, can make you
ravenous!

You like to travel? Good. Try a visit to our next spot!

Wales
Wales has been used for several episodes of Doctor Who for
one simple reason - the train service is excellent, which means
large convoys of trucks are unnecessary and the accountants
get to save money. Of course, there aren't many (any?) trains
to the middle of this beautiful, green land so most of the
filming has been done in the north or the south. The BBC's
logic is incredible, isn't it?

Blaenavon, South Wales
'The Pirate Planet' (T. Baker, 1978): This small Welsh town
in Gwent and the surrounding green foot hills were used for
some of the outdoor locations showing Zanak, the Mentiads,
and the Captain's soldiers 'on manoeuvres'.

Blaenavon is about thirty-eight miles from Bristol (and the

Oldbury Nuclear Power Station used in 'The Hand of Fear'

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and just south of the Black Mountains. If you intend to drive
from Bristol (which you've reached by train out of London's
Paddington Station), take the M5 to the M4, turn northwest
and go across the Severn Bridge to Newport. From there, take
the A4042 north to Pontypool and the A4043.

Drive north along the A4043 and the River Avon-Iwyd for

about six miles to Blaenavon.

You can also take the train from London's Paddington

Station to Cardiff in about two hours. Rent a car in Cardiff and
drive approximately ten miles south-west on the A48 to
Newport and then follow the preceding directions.

Although South Wales has some beautiful scenery -ranging

from soft, rolling land to the steeper foot hills of the Black
Mountain - it is highly unlikely you will run across a rebel (or
otherwise) band of Mentiads. Praise the Company!

Nantyglo, South Wales
'The Pirate Planet' (T. Baker, 1978): This is another small
Welsh town in Gwent (along the Welsh borders). At the head
of the Ebbw Fach valley, Nantyglo is about five miles north-
west from Blaenavon (by road) or about three miles as the
Pirate Captain's Polyphase Avatron machine flies. It, like
Zanak, has a dark history which can be seen in the remains of
brothers Joseph and Crawshay Bailey's demolished mansion
and park. They built an ironworks there in the 1820s and
treated their labourers so poorly that they had to build two
towers and hire armed men to keep their own workers from
storming them. True relatives in ambition, if not blood, to
good old Queen Xanxia herself!

If you're driving from Blaenavon, take the B4248 north to

Brynmawr and go south on the A467.

Brecon Beacons
'The Pirate Planet'(T. Baker, 1978): The underground

scenes representing the hollow world of Zanak were filmed
here in the caves of Brecon Beacons National Park.

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The peaks of this park are" composed of red sandstone

which gleam in the sun like beacons, giving the range its
name. There are a number of striking caves in the chain,
including Danyr Ogof which is floodlit for visitors.

The park isn't far from Nantyglo. Retrace your steps to

Brynmawr and take the A465 west to Glyn-Neath where you
pick up the A4109. About 4 !4 miles along the road, continue
straight on the A4221 for another three miles and turn right
Onto the A4067; Dan yr Ogof is only about four miles further.

The next area of Wales you might want to try is much

further north, close to the west coast and not readily accessible
from southern Wales.

Portmeirion, North-West Wales
'The Masque of Mandragora' (T. Baker, 1976): The strange
litde town of Italian aspect, created by Welsh architect Clough
Williams-Ellis, was used as the entire setting of 'The Masque
of Mandragora'. Care was taken in filming to present only the
more obvious Italian type of architecture to disguise the fact
that it had been used previously for a television series; it was
the Village in the 1960s series, The Prisoner*.

Portmeirion is on the upper north-western coast of Wales

and we'd be pulling your leg if we said it was easy to reach.
There's a train that goes to Porthmadog - about four miles
almost due west - where you can hire a taxi but not a car.
Depending on the weather and the state of your shoes, you
could always hike, but it's unlikely that you'll find any horses
to rent. Count Federico seems to have cornered the local
market.

The village, described as part Italianate, part Welsh, and

mostly eclectic, is private but may be visited from Easter to
October on payment of a toll. The size of the toll is based on
the size of the crowd: the more people already in the village,
the more the toll - a sort of instant crowd control! Have no
fear, the fee is usually £1 or under.

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Accommodation should be available as the hotel which was

damaged by fire in 1981 was scheduled to be rebuilt by 1984.
Unless it's high season, you'd probably be able to find
something in Porthmadog.

Maenturog (or Maentwrog), North Wales
'The Five Doctors' (1983): Much of the filming of the Death
Zone locations and the Dark Tower for the Twentieth
Anniversary Special were done near this small Welsh village
on the edge of Snowdonia National Park. During their stay,
the weather was bitterly cold and all the cast and crew
suffered. Well, maybe not all - the actor portraying the Yeti
was reasonably comfortable in his shaggy costume. Not so
fortunate were Jon Pertwee and Lis Sladen. They were so cold
they had to stand around before their scenes were shot
slapping their cheeks so they didn't register blue on the colour
monitors!

Maenturog is about six miles west of Portmeirion and about

four miles south from Blaenau Ffestiniog, a Welsh slate-
mining town that has been preserved, and is now, like
Ironbridge Gorge, a fascinating centre for crafts. It got its
name from a large standing stone called 'Twrog's Stone' which
stands beside its church porch.

Somewhat off the beaten track, you'd better plan on using a

car. The closest car rental office that we were able to find was
in Wrexham, about fifty-five miles away. There's a train
service to Penrhyndeudraeth (a town half-way between
Maenturog and Portmeirion) but you'd have to check with
British Rail for times, trains, and cost. From there you could
conceivably hire a taxi to visit both Portmeirion and
Maenturog. There also appears to be a train service between
Chester (which can be reached from London's Euston station
in about three hours) and Blaenau Ffestiniog, but you'll have
to check about the connections out of Chester.

Nant Ffrancon (Snowdonia National Park) Wales

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'The Abominable Snowmen' (Troughton, 1966): Snowdonia

National Park was chosen by director Gerald Blake to
represent Tibet. Because of the cast's prior commitments,
shooting had to be done in August so there wasn't any snow
available. Mother Nature tried her darnedest to help, however,
by dropping the temperature to unseasonably frigid levels.
Frazer Hines suffered the most, attired as he was in his wind-
swept kilt. The actors playing the Yeti were the warmest -
covered as they were up to and over their eyebrows in fake fur
- but they came in for their own brand of trouble. When their
latex rubber feet gave them absolutely no purchase in the soft
Welsh turf, time and again they skidded and slipped, sliding
this way and that before falling flat. The rest of the cast found
it hilarious, but not all those Yeti snarls and growls recorded
on tape were in the script!

Nant Ffrancon isn't a village but a pass between the Glyder

and Carnedd mountain ranges. It's about five miles north of
Mount Snowdon, 'monarch' of all mountains in England and
Wales, and the road (the A5) actually forms the watershed in
that area. A stream on one side flows to Ogwen and the sea
near Bangor while on the other side it flows to Llugwy and the
sea at Conway. No wonder it was chosen for a substitute for
Tibet!

Reaching Snowdonia National Park can be quite an

adventure. There is no train service - as far as we can tell -
directly to the Park, so you either have to go to Chester,
Wrexham, or Llandudno where you can rent a car and do the
rest of your touring by four wheels. Luckily, all of the above
towns have good train service, you just need to search out the
times, trains, and cost before zooming off on your way. By the
way, if you see a very large, furry hitchhiker standing on the
side of the road . . . maybe you'd better pass him by!

In between the first two groupings and far to the east

(actually just inside the Welsh border) is Welshpool.

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Powys Castle, Welshpool, Wales
'Warriors' Gate' (T. Baker, 1981): This was the stately home
pictured at the end of the episode, supposedly on the other side
of a time-gateway populated by the Tharils in E-space.
Romana stayed there - with K9 and Biroc - to avoid going
back to Gallifrey.

Powys Castle is a largely preserved thirteenth to fourteenth-

century casde (restored in the sixteenth century) that was built
of red sandstone. It has beautifully terraced gardens, laid out
in the early eighteenth century, and some of the largest oaks in
Britain in its park. It is open the first week in April and then
from May to September, Wednesday to Sunday (also on
Tuesdays in July and ^August). Confused? Sc* were we.
Because of its somewhat erratic schedule, we think it's best to
check with Tourist Information on the exact days and times.

Located approximately sixteen miles west of Shrewsbury

(where a car rental office is available) Welshpool and Powys
are accessible by train in about three hours from London's
Euston Station. Shrewsbury is also only about fifteen miles
north-west from the Ironbridge Trust Museum. To drive from
Shrewsbury, take the A458 to Welshpool. Powys Castle is less
than a mile south of there off the A483. There's also a train
that runs daily from Cardiff to Shrewsbury and takes about 2
hours and 10 minutes.

We hope our groupings of the various long-range Doctor

Who location sites help you plan your own trip. You probably
won't be able to fit them all into your schedule, but we urge
you to try and include at least one. When they were able, the
various producers and directors chose some terrific places not
only to film but to visit. No matter which one you see, we're
sure you won't be disappointed.

Overseas with the Doctor
Once in a very great while, the producer is able to juggle the
budget enough to get out of Britain to other countries. (This
doesn't mean that the basic Doctor Who drive to find newer

138

and different quarries is entirely thwarted. Not by a long shot.
Sometimes it seems that the location manager has a divining
stick and he can seek them out even over great distances - see
Lanzarote.)

In this section, we're going to give you some information

that will make a side trip to any of these locations a little
easier. We can only give you basic information, however:
you'll need to consult your travel agent, library, or 500-year
diary for anything beyond these bare bones. After all, some
travel books are seven hundred or more pages long - a mite
more than we have.

Amsterdam, Holland
Arc of Infinity' (Davison, 1982): Much of this episode was
filmed in and around the streets and canals of the capital of the
Netherlands. Apart from the new costumes for Tegan and
Nyssa, one of the most memorable shots of the episode was
the first appearance of the Giant Chicken Of The Crypt.

Getting to Holland from London is not that difficult. In fact,

it can be accomplished by train (either in a daylight trip or
overnight and using a sleeper) or by plane. If you fly, the
round-trip fare by British Airways is about £55 and you'll land
at Schiphol Airport - one of the places used in the episode
where Tegan was supposed to meet her cousin! By train (for
the overnight trip), leave via London's Liverpool Street Station
at 1940 which gets you into the Hook of Holland at 0630 the
next day. Then take the train at 0731 at the Hook which gets
you into Amsterdam's Centraal Station at 0903. The whole trip
takes about thirteen hours. Second class fare is about £42 one
way which includes a sleeping berth/cabin on the ship over.
Returning is just about as easy - depart Amsterdam at 2050
and arrive back at Liverpool Street Station the next day at
0914. You could do it all in one day, but it would be hectic
and you'd probably find yourself exhausted at the end of it.
Consider staying in Amsterdam at least one night.

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The Dutch monetary system consists of gulden (guilder or

florin) and is written either as f, fl., Hfl., or Dfl. Each guilder
is divided into 100 cents; there are coins of 1 guilder, 2.5
guilders, 5, 10, and 25 cents; and the notes are of 5, 10,
25,50,100, and 1,000 guilders. Amsterdam is more expensive
than the countryside. Consider that when budgeting.

One way to save money would be to try a canal-house hotel.

They're similar to the B&Bs in England in that they include a
gigantic breakfast in their price. (The emphasis is not so much
on bacon and eggs as on cheese, ham, several kinds of Dutch
bread, butter, and milk. Wow! After one of these breakfasts,
you're pretty well set for the day.) These houses are narrow
and their stairs steep. Don't let that deter you, though - older
tourists are always put on the ground or first floor and younger
ones, well, isn't this an adventure? There are also small hotels
off the canals as well as private homes that rent out rooms
(with breakfast) to tourists at somewhere between thirty to
Fifty-five guilders a night per person. Plan ahead and you
should be able to find something under £11 anight.

A guide to help you find a budget place to stay is Frommer's

Europe on $25 a Day or check with the official Dutch tourist
organisation (NNT at: Vlietweg, 15, 2266KA Lied-schendam,
Amsterdam). The VVV (abbreviation for local Dutch tourist
offices) in Amsterdam can also help you find a room upon
arrival at a small cost if you haven't already booked ahead.
The Dutch Youth Hostel Association (NJHC, Prof. Tulpstraat
4, Amsterdam; tel. 020-264433) accepts persons aged 14-35
who are members and anyone in that age range can join at any
hostel (not necessary for IYHF members). The price is about
fl. 12-18 per person per night with breakfast included. The
main caution for any of these is: book ahead.

A brief discussion of food is probably pertinent here: you

can find inexpensive meals, especially at the Dutch sandwich
shops (broodjeswinkels) located almost everywhere. Two or
three sandwiches (broodjes) and milk (a Dutch treat!) are
filling and relatively inexpensive, averaging fl.3-8.

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If you want something more exotic, try one of the

Indonesian or Chinese-Indonesian restaurants that serve bami
goreng or nasi goreng - plates of either rice or noodles covered
with thin strips of meat (ham or pork) and topped off with a
fried egg. The whole thing is garnished with lettuce and
pickles. It sounds strange, but so do some of the Doctor's
concoctions. At least this tastes good as well as being
inexpensive, rarely more than fl.8 for lunch! For supper, you
can find restaurants that serve meals under £7, but you need to
shop around. This is where your big budget travel book comes
in handy.

In Amsterdam, the way to travel is the trolley. There are

fifteen routes they follow, ten of which travel to and from the
Centraal Station. You can purchase unlimited-travel tickets for
one, two, or three days at fl.7.85, fl.ll, and fl. 13 or you can
buy a strip of six tickets (strippenkaart) for fl.4.75 at a time.
Most trips within the central area of Amsterdam require two
tickets, so decide for yourself which would be the most
sensible for you.

If you want.to see as much of the city in as short a time as

possible, take a canal boat ride. Most of Amsterdam's historic
houses are along its fifty canals. (Besides, Omega died on one
of these jetties: you might even see the exact one!) No better
way exists than the canal boats to see essential Amsterdam in
about 1 hour and 15 minutes. The departure docks of the tour
companies can be spotted by a sign reading Rondvaart (round-
trip) at various waterside locations. All charge the same price
(fl.9 at this printing); offer essentially the same tour; leave
generally at half-hour intervals; and, beginning around 15
May, offer night-time tours so you can see the city's
seventeenth-century houses illuminated - a marvellous sight.

If you'd rather see the city by motorcoach, there are several

tours that begin every day at 10 am from tour offices up and
down the Damrak (one of the main streets/canals). The
standard price is fl.32, but check first as the price may go up.

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You'll be in good company if you decide to rent a bike -

many of the Doctor Who cast and crew did! Rent-a-Bike is
located in the basement of the Centraal Station (to the right as
you're facing the main entrance, in the brown-brick wing). It's
open seven days a week from 5.30 am to 5.30 pm (hours
slightly different on Saturday and Sunday) and charges fl.6 per
day, fl.30 per week after a refundable deposit of fl.200
(around $70). If you want to see more of Holland than
Amsterdam, Ena's Bike Tours (phone 015-143797) will take
you along carefully selected scenic country lanes, stop to visit
a working windmill and a farm where they make cheese, and
even take a boat ride at a lake! Either pack a picnic lunch or
dine at a restaurant at the lake - the tours leave daily 1 June
through 1 October at 10 am from various points in Amsterdam
and return about 5.30 pm. Total cost is about fl. 10, which
includes the bike, the cheese farm, the windmill visit, and the
boat ride. Call for reservations.

There are hundreds of other places to visit and things to see

in this fascinating city that we simply don't have space to
mention. (For instance: the world-famous museums, the
breweries, the diamond cutters, the overwhelmingly divergent
kinds of entertainment, etc.) You'll have to search them out for
yourself.

One thing the Doctor wouldn't want you to miss is Anne

Frank's house. It's found at 263 Prinsengracht (around the
corner from the West Church) and is open weekdays from 9-5,
Sundays from 10-5 for an admission of fl.4. The house can be
reached by either the Number Thirteen or Number Seventeen
trolley. If you'd like to spend a little more time exploring,
check with the VVV. They have a 1-3 day low cost inclusive
programme known as 'The Amsterdam Way' which has lots of
free extras and might help you stretch your budget.

One final word of caution: although the city of Amsterdam

is relatively safe, it's best to avoid the area around the Centraal
Station at night. After dark, that section is pretty open and

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free-wheeling and you may find yourself in situations where
you wish you weren't.

Paris, France
'City of Death' (T. Baker, 1979): This was the first episode to
be filmed outside the confines of Great Britain and, predic-
tably, was filmed in what many consider to be the most
fascinating city in the world. The Eiffel Tower, the Louvre,
the streets of the City of Lights, and even the Metro – all were
used by the Doctor* Romana, and the delightfully dogged
Duggan in their attempt to save the world from Scaroth.

The fastest way to Paris is via British Airways (we told you

we'd lost the plans for the transmat!) which will cost about
£78 round trip, and gets you into Charles De Gaulle Airport.
The fastest, most inexpensive way to get into Paris from there
is by the Roissy Rail - bus-train which will take you from the
airport to Paris's Gare du Nord train station. You have to look
for the signs or ask, but it's only about 20 francs (£1.75).

Besides flying, you can also get to Paris via train and either

ship or hovercraft. By rail/ship during the day, you depart
from London's Victoria and arrive at either Paris St Lazare or
Paris Nord. The trip takes between eight to ten hours,
depending upon your departure time. There is also an
overnight rail/ship that departs about 2100 hours and arrives in
Paris Nord at 0853 the next day. This only costs about £24
(one way) but there are no sleeping accommodations on the
night service! By rail/hovercraft (again during the day) you
depart from Charing Cross and arrive at Paris Nord in about
seven hours. Either of these costs about £39 one-way, second
class. The returns are about the same, the overnight leaves
Paris Nord about 2240 and arrives at Victoria at about 0758,
but again, there is no sleeping accommodation.

British Rail has also started offering tours of Paris, at

extremely reasonable prices. This includes round trip
transportation with choice of ship or hovercraft crossing, all
port and harbour taxes, and accommodation in Paris with bath

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or shower, continental breakfast, taxes and service. Check
with your travel agent.

The French monetary system is based on the franc. At the

time of this writing, $1 equalled about 8 francs and £1
equalled about 11 francs. There are 100 centimes in a franc
and there are 5, 10, 20, and 50 centime coins; 1,2,5, and 10
franc coins; and notes (or bills) of 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, and
500 francs. A 5 centime coin is often called un sou.

Paris is often described as one of the most expensive cities

on earth and we're sure you're wondering how you can survive
in a place that wants to gobble your hard-earned money. Well,
don't despair! Paris can be tamed (even the Creature in the Pit
was pretty harmless after it was able to communicate with the
Doctor) but it requires a good bit of homework on your part.
Again we recommend Frommer's Guide to Europe on $25
Dollars a Day as being an Outstanding book to help you find
specific inexpensive hotel rooms and places to eat. The
official Paris tourist office is located at 127, Avenue des
Champs Elysees, tel. 7236172. It's open daily 9 am to 10 pm,
and on Sundays from 9 am to 8 pm. They will help with hotel
reservations but not more than five days in advance.

A quick suggestion: the Left Bank (south of the River Seine)

is considered much less expensive than the Right Bank (north
of the River). It's also where the Eiffel Tower, the Sorbonne,
and Notre Dame Cathedral are located and where students and
artists traditionally gather. (Naturally, the Doctor felt right at
home here in his Bohemian dress.) There are a lot of rooms
available for between 75-150 francs ($9.50-18.75) for singles
and 90-295 francs ($11.25-37) for doubles . . . and most
include breakfast. It's exactly what the Doctor ordered!

Speaking of breakfast, in Paris it's not what you're used to in

London or Amsterdam. Breakfast consists of coffee, tea, or
chocolate, with rolls and butter and not unlimited quantities. If
you order extras, you will pay for extras. Make sure that your
hotel room rate is inclusive of all forms of taxes, services, and

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really does include your breakfast. This avoids unexpected
(and how!) extra costs.

All right, you've reached Paris (hopefully with a hotel room

already reserved). Now you're ready for your first encounter
with one of the Doctor Who shooting locations - the Metro!
Yes, that's right, the very means by which you can get around
this fabulous city cheaply and quickly is almost one of the first
things the Doctor was filmed using on his historic trip. The
Parisian subway is no harder to use than its London
counterpoint. There are fourteen subway lines and although
you will usually have to make at least one change
(correspondance) to get to your destination, there is a 'magic'
map next to the ticket booth in most Metro stations. Just press
a button opposite the name of the station where you want to go
and immediately the board lights up, showing the two lines
you must take to reach your destination! Ah, modern
technology. It's almost as good as having the Doctor travelling
with you. The second class subway fare to any point in the
city is 5 francs but a book (comet) of ten tickets is only 30
francs which reduces each ticket to about 3 francs. Always buy
your tickets by the book!

Every tourist (the Doctor included) likes to eat and Paris is

the gourmet capital of the world. But, taking a look at the
prices in some restaurants, you could conclude that you need
the riches of more than one world to avert starvation! Certain
planning is necessary if you want to avoid La Soupe
Populaire, a Salvation Army-type soup kitchen that's available
if you're down to your last few sous. There are many low-
priced restaurants where food is excellent and prices
reasonable. Do your homework. We can give you some tips to
help you keep your costs down: (1) stick to soup as your
opening course, it's cheap (6-7 francs) and good as well as
reviving: (2) an omelette as a main course is a wise choice and
rarely more than 15 francs: (3) steak/rites, a small, ^thin steak
with a mound of french fries is usually available at a cost of
20-25 francs; (4) bistros with prix fixe meals - a set three or

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four course meal for one lump sum - are great if you have time
for a leisurely meal; and (5) buy your own ingredients - bread,
cheese, pate, salads, etc, from a Parisian charcuterie
(delicatessen) to picnic in your hotel room. Wine is very
inexpensive while the price of soft drinks can make your hair
curl even more than the fourth Doctor's on a rainy day. Be
choosy and plan ahead.

If you have only a day or two to spend in Paris, then an

escorted sightseeing tour is almost a necessity. One of the
best, most comprehensive tours of Paris is given by Cityrama.
They have a fleet of glass-enclosed double-decker buses with
easychair-type seats and headphones that are hooked up to a
tape recorded commentary available in seven languages. You
dial your language, sit hack, and absorb Paris in one sitting.
The tour lasts three hours, costs 137 francs (around $18), and
leaves at 9:30, 10, and 11 am and at 1, 2, and 3.30 pm from 4,
Place des Pyramids, which is off the Rue de Rivoli, near the
Louvre, directly opposite the Tuileries Metro stop.

Another sightseeing tour you won't want to miss is by boat

along the Seine. The Bateaux Mouches tour boats run from 10
am to 11 pm and:the fare is 20 francs. They depart from a
dock on the Right Bank next to the Pont de l'Alma. (The
Metro stop is Alma Marceau.)

Naturally, two well-known sites you won't want to miss are

the Louvre (does the Mona Lisa really have This is a Jake!
written in felt-tip pen under its paint!) and the Eiffel Tower.
The Metro stop for the Louvre is the Palais Royal and the Bir-
Hakeim or Trocadero for the Eiffel Tower. The Metro stop for
Notre Dame Cathedral is the Cite; the Etoile for the Arc de
Triomphe; and the Franklin D. Roosevelt for the Champs
Elysees. Virtually all the monuments and museums (including
the Louvre) are closed on Tuesdays - don't be disappointed!
To be really money-wise, schedule your trip to the Louvre on
Sunday when no admission is charged.

Paris has so many other attractions, museums, monuments,

cathedrals, and sights that we couldn't possibly begin to list

146

them all. Go, sample, and enjoy yourself. Maybe you won't be
lucky enough to run into the Doctor on your trip, but thank
your lucky stars you also won't run into a two-faced,
supercilious Count!

Seville, Spain
'The Two Doctors' (C. Baker and Troughton, 1984): Seville
was substituted when New Orleans didn't work out and most
of the recognisable parts of the episode were filmed in the
heart of the city. The Cathedral, the Barrio Santa Cruz, La
Giralda Tower, and the famous horse-drawn carriages were all
central to the show but if you time your visit correctly, you
won't run into the excessive heat the cast and crew did!

Seville is not just a hop and a skip from London and the

only practical means by which to travel there is air (assuming
you don't have unlimited time to spend on your trip). Air
Iberia will get you to Seville airport - for somewhere between
£89 and £199 round trip depending on the season - and a taxi
will get you into the city fairly cheaply.

Spain's currency is the peseta, which is worth about $.006 in

US terms, one dollar being equal to about 162 pesetas or £1
equal to about 234 pesetas

There are also centimos, units of

currency so low they're almost worthless, so you don't have to
worry too much about them. It takes 100 centimos to equal 1
peseta and you saw how much that's worth. There is a 100
peseta coin. Now that is copper in colour and about the same
size as the 5-peseta coin. Don't get them confused! Besides the
5 and 100 pts. coins, there are 1, 15, and 50 pts. coins. Spanish
bills come in 100, 500, 1000 and 5000 notes. (Because of the
exchange rate, it isn't unusual to see hotel rooms, meals,
clothing, and other things priced at 2,000 pesetas or more.
Please don't faint - 2,000 pesetas is around £12.

The high season is July to August (the temperature's pretty

high at that time, too!) and hotel reservations.are an absolute
must. Rooms run from as low as 900 pts. (around $5) for a
single to 6000 pts. ($37) for a double with a private bath.

147

Unlike Amsterdam, Paris, and London, breakfast is not
included with your room. A good guide for moderately priced
hotels (as well as restaurants that don't break your
pocketbook) is Frommer's Spain & Morocco Plus the Canary
Islands On $35 a Day. Seville is not cheap. Most restaurant
meals start out around 1000 pts. and move upward very
quickly (there goes your plan to try and out-eat Shockeye and
the second Doctor!) but don't be fooled into eating in the
cheap, unhygienic restaurants. If you do, you may end up
spending more money on medical treatment than a decent
meal ever would have cost you. 'Spanish Tummy' hit most of
the cast and crew while they were filming: try not to let it get a
bite out of you!

One reason the restaurants are pretty pricey is the number of

cafe's, mesones, and bodegas that serve tapes (snacks) of
shrimp or some kind of seafood, sandwiches, and a variety of
sausages at the bar but do not provide tables or waiter service.
There are also many coffee and pastry shops where you can
slack your hunger without destroying your budget.

VVe must warn you about the increasingly frequent daylight

robberies and purse-snatchings in Spain in general and Seville
in particular. The city has been hit by a fairly massive crime
wave in recent years, often staged by gangs of rampaging
youths. Maria Luisa Park is especially dangerous as is the
highway leading to Jerez de la Frontera and Cadiz. Cameras
and pbeketbooks are especially vulnerable, even in cars while
you are driving! It has been suggested that you avoid carrying
more than small amounts of cash on your person and only one
credit card (if that!) when you go out. Leave your passport and
traveller's cheques in your hotel safe, take precautions when
wandering the streets, and always have a taxi deliver you to
your hotel door when out after dark.

Luckily (considering the above), taxis are quite reasonable.

The fare starts at 48 pts., with increments of 3 pts. every
fifteen seconds. There are supplements for suitcases (15 pts.
each); Sundays and holidays (30 pts.); night fares between

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midnight and 6 am (35 pts.); leaving a station (30 pts.); and to
or from the airport (100 pts). Most taxis can take up to four
people.

Now you want to see the sights - especially those relating to

Doctor Who. Well, outside of the Dona Arana's hacienda
which is beyond the city limits, most of the action took place
in the centre of town. The Cathedral (whose bells the Doctor
recognised half-way across the galaxy) dominates much of
Seville and is located on the Plaza Virgen de los Reyes. It's the
largest cathedral in Spain, only St Peter's in Rome and St
Paul's in London are larger, and dates from the late 1400s. The
remains of Christopher Columbus lie enshrined within its
walls and you'll find some minor works by Goya, Murillo, and
Zurbaran in its treasury. There is an admission charge (125
pts.); the viewing hours are variable - check before going; and
shorts and T-shirts are not allowed.

The Cathedral tower, home of the bell the Doctor

recognised, is called La Giralda and started life as a Moorish
tower in the twelfth century. It's located at Plaza del Triunfo
and is considered to be to Seville what Big Ben is to London.
Yes, you can climb it (surprise: there's no stairs, just an
enormous, seemingly endless ramp), and, once you reach the
top, the whole of Seville is spread out at your feet.-Another
nice surprise - admission is only 25 pts.

Not very far away is the Barrio Santa Cruz, an area that used

to be the old Jewish section of the city and is now the
aristocratic quarter of Old Seville. This is where the second
Doctor and Shockeye tried to eat their way through Oscar's
restaurant. Strangely enough, this section also has the majority
of the nifty eating places in Seville. (Maybe the second Doctor
really did know what he was doing when he took the
Androgum there!) If you wander through it, you'll find streets
no bigger than alleyways, flower-filled balconies draped with
bougainvillea, wrought-iron gates bordering patios filled with
fountains, and sleepy squares fragrant with orange blossoms.
It's beautiful, a picture postcard of Spain but remember -

149

exercise caution strolling through here, particularly at night - it
has also been the setting for many robberies.

One less tiring way to see the city is by coche caballos - the

horse-drawn carriages used in the show. They can be found
and rented at the Plaza Virgen de los "Reyes outside the
Cathedral entrance. As you've probably guessed, this isn't the
most inexpensive way of travel, so get a group together to
help spread the cost. Make sure you and the coachman agree
on a price before you start but don't worry, it really is okay to
bargain a little first.

There's plenty more to see in Seville (after all, it was also

the 'home' of Don Juan, Carmen, and the painter Murillo)
including flamenco dancers, an Andalusian hacienda, and a
Moorish palace whose beauty rivals that of Granada's
Alhambra but they, unfortunately, weren't used in the episode.

The Seville tourist office is at 9, Avenida de la Constitucion;

the police station is on Plaza de la Gavidia (tel. 22-88-40), and
most banks are open from 9 am to 2 pm Monday through
Saturday. Never, but never go out of the bank counting money
- always conceal it before hitting the sidewalk!

Take a couple of days to soak up the scenery and the more

relaxed Spanish way of life. Enjoy yourself but take
precautions so you don't become another crime statistic -after
all, you don't want to end up in a situation right out of The
Professionals.

Lanzarote, Canary Islands
'Planet of Fire' (Davison, 1984): The Canary Islands
(Lanzarote in particular) were the location for this episode,
thanks to director Fiona Cumming. After vacationing there,
she suggested the site as a perfect spot for the show and then
sat nibbling her fingernails when no director was announced
to do that particular show. Finally she couldn't take it any
longer, went to JNT, and demanded to know who the lucky
director was. He stared and said, 'You, of course! You
suggested it.' The rest, as they say, is history.

150

As Lanzarote is a Spanish possession, all the preceding

information on money outlined in the Seville section applies.
Unfortunately there is a general drug problem throughout all
of Spain since relaxation of the laws, which has resulted in
increased crime. (Yes, even paradise has its troubles.) This has
necessitated an extended baggage inspection at airports and
means you may have to wait up to two hours after landing on
the island to clear customs. One 'good' thing; the Spanish
airlines are given preference, so if you fly Air Iberia you may
not have to,wait so long.

Lanzarote is the most easterly of the Canary Islands and lies

off the west coast of Africa and is most readily reached by air.
(If you want to hire a punt and try your hand, be our guest. We
doubt, however, if you can get a pole long enough to reach
bottom.) According to ancient myths, the Canaries are the
peaks of the lost continent of Adantis. Great! Doctor Who has
- to date - offered three different versions as to what happened
to the lost continent, so you should feel right at home.
Although the Canaries seem to have cornered the market on
sunshine, most of the other islands are rather muggy due to
their central mountains. As Lanzarote doesn't have any true
mountains, all the warm, dry winds from Africa sweep the
humidity away. The climate is marvellous -the average
temperature ranges from 64 degrees Fahrenheit in January to
74 degrees Fahrenheit in August - so it's no wonder so many
English vacation here.

With all that going for it, it's too bad you almost need the

TARDIS to get there. We couldn't find any direct flights from
London to Lanzarote; it seems you have to go to Seville (or
someplace in Spain) to get there via Air Iberia. The round trip
from Seville is around 19,500 pts. ($120 or £83); you have to
pay for your airfare to Seville on top of that; and Iberia only
flies to Lanzarote on Fridays and Mondays! Now, it's possible
there are package flights out of London via Iberia Airlines but
the airlines wouldn't give us any hints even when we asked.

151

Laurie is convinced it's either a plot on the Master's part or a
case of 'you can't get there from here!'

If, in spite of the above obstacles, you manage to get to

Lanzarote, you'll find there are a few places to stay that won't
entirely deplete your resources but we can't stress enough that
you must book ahead! Frommer's Spain and Morocco Plus the
Canary Islands on $35 Dollars a Day is an enormous help, but
be prepared to spend between 2500-5200 pts. ($15.50-32.00 or
£11-22) per day for a single and 1500-5700 pts. ($9-35 or £6-
24) per day for a double. At least these prices include a
continental breakfast.

The food prices are comparable to Seville (this is an island,

remember, a lot has to be imported) but native wine is very
inexpensive if you buy it in the vineyard bodegas. Plan on
sticking with botded water - either carbonated or plain -if you
don't want to come down with 'Spanish tummy'. (Don't forget
that this applies to brushing your teeth and ice cubes, too!) As
you did in Spain, you may want to stick to tapas (bar snacks)
for one meal and splurge on dinner when it's cooler. There are
quite a few restaurants, at all kinds of prices, on the island.
Meals run from as little as $4 to well over $22 without wine. If
you're homesick, there's even an English pub - Simpson's Pub
in Puerto del Carmen - which is run by an English couple who
produce real English food in the midst of this very Spanish
island.

To get around on Lanzarote, you can rent a car (at Avis,

Hertz, or Riverol, a local concern) or a motorcycle (also at
Riverol), hire a cab, or book an excursion with Cyrasa at 12
Avenida del Generalisimo Franco (tel. 81-03-13). Many of the
taxi drivers now speak a little English - not much, but a little -
and they are knowledgable about the island. If you do hire a
taxi, make sure you and the driver agree on the price for the
day's exploring before you leave.

So - where do you want to go? The Montanas del Fuego

(Fire Mountains), of course! They are the most spectacular
feature of the island and figured prominently in 'Planet of

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Fire'. South-west of Arrecife (the capital), protected now as a
tourist attraction, they were formed by volcanic activity in the
early 1700s. (Remember everybody slipping around on the
lava slides?) Entrance to the area costs 450 pts. per car and
hours are 9 am to 5 pm. You drive your own car (or your taxi)
through the mountains in a convoy with a leader and an escort
but don't expect any commentary. The tour goes to the Islote
del Hilario, a circular restaurant and bar, built on the site of
the old hermit Hilario's hut. He and his donkey came back
after the volcanic eruptions, planted a fig tree (no, we don't
know why!), and is remembered to this day. Timanfaya is the
biggest mountain in the Fire Mountains and can be ascended
via a camel! You can rent a camel at the station just before
you enter the park. It will cost somewhere in the
neighbourhood of 400 pts. ($2.50) per person to rent one to
take you up the side of the mountain to the crater. If this
appeals to you, time your visit for the early morning - the
camels go home at noon to work in the fields.

Take the road north out of Arrecife, you'll pass through Los

Valles, a beautifully kept area of cultivation, before coming
out above the Arabic-looking village of Haria. Continuing
onward, you come to the Mirador del Rio, a lookout blasted
into the rock of the cliff overlooking the island of La Graciosa.
Perhaps it was here that Peri confronted the Master? If it was,
they both had to pay an admission charge of 125 pts. to
harangue each other. Come to think of it, it had to be - it's the
local equivalent of a quarry! The lookout is open from 11 am
to 7 pm in the summer and closes earlier in the winter.

If you decide on escorted excursions, a full day's jaunt to

Fire Mountains, El Golfo, and the south including lunch at
Uga costs about 2500 pts. (£10.50). A half-day trip to the
north and the Mirador del Rio goes for 1400 pts. (£6) and that,
too, includes lunch.

Although we can't guarantee any underwater arche-ological

sites (sorry, Professor Howard), you're welcome to talk to Bob
Wright, an Englishman, or his partner Dennis who run a

154

The Master's Checklist

The Master seldom forgets anything (except that the Doctor is
going to win), so we've put together our version of a masterly
checklist that you can use before beginning your trip. It's the
bare essentials - enough for about a two week visit. Remember
that additions will add weight!

Address Book! Small, light with British addresses you

think you might need, old ones you have trouble
remembering, and room to add new friends. A tarm clock:
Tiny one.

Amusements: Card, 'disposable' book, puzzle books, pocket

games, etc. to help pass the time while travelling.
Blazer/Jacket:   Not essential but great for 'dressy' look as well
as warmth. Dark, wrinkle-resistant, and sprayed with water
repellent to foil stains and dirt is best. Blouse:   Two at most,
one light, one dark (or print); lightweight material easy to
wash. Sprayed with water repellant. Camera:   Small, light,
easy to carry.

Chapstick: Essential for everyone. Cracked, bleeding lips

are no fun in any language.

Clothesline - braided elastic: Absolutely essential. Can be

found in department or travel speciality stores.

Coat: Raincoat/trenchcoat, dark, preferably with zip in-out

lining and hood. Waterproof! Can also double as a bath robe.

Comb: Essential.

155

Contacts: Carry a 'pair and a spare' or at least your

prescription. If you have soft lenses with thermal cleaning, a
good, electrical adaptor is essential.

Cosmetics: Bare essentials.
Credit Cards: No more than you need. Leave extras in a

safety deposit box or with your family.

Deodorant: Stick is best, aerosol can explode in your

luggage.

Duffel bag: Pack in suitcase for return trip - dirty laundry,

etc. Also handy for short trips.

Ear plugs: Great for sleeping on planes, trains or in hotels,

B&Bs, etc. - anyplace where noise might keep you awake.

Film: Lots - at least a roll a day to be on the safe side.
First Aid kit: Essential. Sample sizes of: antacids,

antiseptic cream or liquid, aspirin (or equivalent), bandaids,
moleskin (adhesive felt for blisters), and prescription drugs
(carry these with you in original botUes, remember).

Flashlight: Small one. Make sure batteries are new and it's

in good working order.

Food: Only if you're flying budget. Eat what you open or

you will have to throw it away when you land. Glasses:
Carry a 'pair and a spare' or at least your prescription.

Gloves: Absolutely essential if travelling in anything

except the High Season. Hairbrush: Up to you.

Hat/Scarf: Cloth or khaki fisherman-style hat highly

recommended. One deep enough to stay on your head in high
winds and with a wide enough brim to keep the rain out of
your eyes. Scarf to protect ears if susceptible. (Earmuffs if
really sensitive.) Waterproofed.

Identification: Driver's license, health insurance card, inter-

national student card, international hostel card, senior citizen
card. Also carry one extra photo ID besides your passport.

Jeans: Acceptable but Jean doesn't recommend them.

Spray with water repellant if you decide you can't live without
them. Leave your grubbies at home!

Jewellery: Don't bring expensive things. If you must,

156

splurge and buy some baubles in Chelsea or on Carnaby
Street.

Knapsack: Handy for short trips but not essential.
Laundry soap: Travel packets of dry soap or small plastic

bottle of liquid.

Maps: Essential. Familiarise yourself with them before you

get to Britain.

Money belt: Essential if you have no inside jacket pockets or

are feeling terribly insecure. See if you can get one big enough
for your passport.

Money clip: If you can't find a wallet big enough, this will

contain your folding bills.

Needle and thread:   Small travel pack is best.
Nightgown:   Let one of your T-shirts double for this.
Nylons:   Pack only two pair of nylons/panty hose/kneehighs

per week.

Passport: Don't leave home without it! Don't pack it in your

suitcase!

Pen: How else are you going to write home? Non-leaking.

Pen knife, multiblade: Essential. One with can-opener, sharp
blade, corkscrew, etc.

Plastic bags: Wonderfully useful items, especially with the

zip tops.

Purse, coin: Large enough for hefty collection of money.

Zippered top helpful and safer.

Purse, shoulder bag: Carry a large enough one with tight-

fitting clasps or zippers to foil thieves.

Razor: Lightweight, manual.
Safety pins: Bring a few.
Sanitary products: Although available at the chemist's, best

to be prepared.

Scarf, Doctor's: Leave the twenty-five foot version at home.

The eight foot one can double as an extra blanket if necessary!

157

Shaving cream: Bring travel size only if a necessity. Can be

found at the chemist's.

Shirt: Two at most, dark colours are best, easy to wash and

dry. Spray with water repellant.

Shoes: Two pair, both comfortable walking shoes. Forget

'dressy' and pack for your feet's sake. No high heels! Some
museums or stately homes forbid them because they damage
the floors, let alone your feet!

Shower cap: Bring it if you use it.
Skirt or Kilt: No more than one, if that. Should be easy to

wash, dark to hide the stains, and wrinkle-resistant. Spray with
water repellant.

Slacks: 'Pair and a spare', dark is best. Can take one for dress

and a pair of jeans for casual but remember - jeans are heavier
than slacks when packing. (They are also usually warmer).
Whichever you take, spray with water repellant.

Slippers: If you must, lightweight ones.
Soap: Small bar in a plastic case.
Socks: 'Pair and a spare'. Can always buy others if this is not

enough. Synthetics are best as they dry faster than cotton or
wool.

Sports coat: Only necessary if you think you'll need to

dress up. Dark coloured tweed is the best, doesn't show
dirt/wrinkles so blatantly. Waterproof.

Sunglasses: Lightweight pair.
Sweater: One at least. Wear while travelling to save

packing space. Spray with water repellant if possible.

Thermal underwear: Essential if travelling in any season

except High. Two tops/one bottom.

Tickets: Easy to forget - don't! This includes plane as well as

British Rail.

Tie: One at most sprayed with water repellant. Why not buy

one in England?

Toilet paper: Small travel pack of tissues is good enough.
Toothbrush and toothpaste: Travel tube size best. Roll up

tube from bottom while using to conserve space.

158

Towellets, pre-moistened: Handy. Get the kind that's

individually wrapped.

Traveller's cheques: Don't leave home without them! In

pounds sterling, of course.

T-shirt: Two at most, great for sleepwear.
Turtleneck: Not essential but Laurie feels she would have

gotten Yeti-throat without hers. Spray with water repellant if
packed.

Umbrella: Folding one of less than fourteen inches is best.

Not absolutely essential.

Underwear: Lightweight, nylon best because it dries

fastest.

Washcloth: Rare to extinct in Britain, bring if essential to

you.

Wallet: British currency size or bring money clip.

159

Bibliography

Other Books
Almost any book published by:
The British Automobile Association, (AA) Publications

Division of the Automobile Association, Fanum House,
Basingstoke, Hants, RG21 2EA

Robert Nicholson Publications Limited, 17-21 Conway Street,

London W1P 6JD

Fodor's Travel Guides, 2, Park Avenue, NY, NY 10016

(Britain and London)

Frommer's Travel Guides Frommer/Pasmantier Publishers, a

Division of Simon & Schuster, Inc. 1230, Avenue of the
Americas, NYC, NY 10020 (Britain and London)

American Express Guide to England & Wales by James
Tomes, and American Express Pocket Guide to London, by
Michael Jackson, Simon and Schuster, Simon and Schuster

Building, Rockefeller Center, 1230, Avenue of the
Americas, NY, NY 10020 1983, 1984 Baxter's Britrail

Guide, by Robert Baxter, Rail-Europe,

P.O. Box 3255, Alexandria, VA 22302 1979 Birnbaum's

Great Britain and Ireland, 1985, Houghton

Mifflin Company, 2, Park Street, Boston, MA 02108,1984

Daytrips from London, by Earl Steinbicker, Hastings House,

New York, NY 10016, 1985 Ferguson's

Britain By Britrail, by George Ferguson, Burt

Franklin & Company, Inc., 235, East 44th Street, New
York, NY 10017, 1985

Great Britain and Ireland, Michelin Tyre Company, 81,

Fulham Road, London SW3 6RD 1984

160

Great Value Britain 1984, British Tourist Authority, 64,

St James Street, London SW1A INF 1984

Let's Go 1985, Harvard Student Agencies, St Martin's

Press, 175, Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10010, 1985

London: A Rand McNally Pocket Guide, F. George Kay,

Rand McNally & Company, Chicago, NY, San Francisco
1980

Michelin London, Green Guide, Third edition, Michelin
Tyre Company, 81, Fulham Road, London SW3 6RD,
1983
The National Trust Guide to England, Wales, and Northern
Ireland, W. W. Norton & Co Inc., 500, Fifth Avenue, New
York, NY 10110 1984

Addresses
American Society of Travel Agents, 4400, MacArthur Blvd,
Washington DC 20007 USA
Association of British Travel Agents, 50-57, Newman Street,
London W1P 4AH
Booklet 'Know Before You Go', US Customs Information,
Department of the Treasury, Washington DC 20229 USA
British Automobile Association: Fanum House, Basing
View, Basingstoke, Hampshire RG21 2EA (Road Maps)
Britrail Travel International, 630, Third Avenue, New York,
NY 10017 (212-599-5400); 510, Sixth Street, Los Angeles,
CA 90014 (213-626-0088); Plaza of the Americas, North
TowerSte, 750 L.B. 356, Dallas, TX 75201 (214-748-0860);
333, N Michigan Ave, Chicago, IL 60601 (312-263-
1910); 55, Eglinton Ave. E., Toronto, ONT, Canada,
M4R 1G8 (416-929-3333); 409, Granville Street, Van
couver, BC Canada, V6C 1T2 (604-683-6896)
British Tourist Authority, Britain: London; USA: New York
City, Chicago, Dallas, Los Angeles: Argentina: Buenos
Aires; Australia & New Zealand: Sydney; Austria: Vienna;
Belgium: Brussels; Brazil: Sao Paulo; Canada: Toronto;
Denmark: Copenhagen; France: Paris; Germany: Frankfurt;

161

Holland: Amsterdam; Italy: Rome; Japan: Tokyo; Mexico:

Mexico City; Norway: Oslo; South Africa'. Johannesburg;
Spain: Madrid; Sweden: Stockholm; Switzerland: Zurich

British Travel Bookshop, 40, West 57th Street, New York
City, NY 10019 (send SAE for catalogue of books available.

They carry many BTA and AA books as well as maps)

Country Bus information: London Country Bus Services,

Bell Street, Reigate, Surrey, RH2 7LE

English Tourist Board, Thames Tower, Black's Road,

London W6 9EL (01-846-9000) (List of all Tourist Infor-
mation Centres)

Green Line Buses London Country Bus Services Ltd,

Lesbourne Road, Reigate, Surrey RH2 7LE (Reigate
42411)

London Tourist Board, 53-55, Stamford Hill, London N16,

England (01-800-0862)

Royal Automobile Club, .49 Pall Mall, London SW1Y 5JG

(Road Maps)

Phone Numbers
In London: (City code: 01)
Chemist: Bliss the Chemist (24 hours), 624-8000, 50-56,

Willseden Lane, Kilburn, NW6

Dentist: 584-1008 (cost starts at about $25)
Emergency: 999 (real emergencies - not sprained ankles or

dented fenders)

Emergency Medical care: Royal Free Hospital 794-0500,

Pond Street NE3
Middlesex Hospital, 636-8333, Mortimer Street, Wl
University College Hospital, 387-9300,Gower Street, WC1

Guided tours: London Transport: 222-1234

American Express: 930-4411
Thomas Cook: 499-4000
Evan Evans: 278-3311
Frames National: 730-8691
National Travel: 730-0202

162

Help Advisory Centre: 937-6445
Leisureline: 246-8021
London Transport: 24 hour information 222-1234
London National Tourist Information: 730-3488
Replacement Glasses: Selfridges Optical 629-1234 ext. 3889,

in Selfridges Department store, 400 Oxford Street,
London Wl

Taxicabs: From Baker Street Tube;, 935-2553; from Russell
Square, 636-1247, from St George's Square, 834-1014,
from Sloane Square, 730-2664. Radio cabs: 286-4848;
272-3030, 286-6010; 286-6128
Trains from London: From Charing Cross, Victoria,
Waterloo, Waterloo East, Cannon Street, London Bridge,
928-5100

From St Pancras, Euston, Broad Street, Marylebone
387-7070
From Kings Cross 278-2477
From Liverpool Street 283-7171
From Paddington 262-6767

Traveline: 246-8021
Water Transportation: General Information (London
Tourist Board) 730-4812

From the piers: Westminster downstream 930-4097

Westminster upstream 930-2062
Charing Cross 930-0970
Tower 488-0344

Document Outline